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Presumably the pads are also worn unevenly? Uneven wear on pads or discs is indicative of sticking calliper pistons, seized slider pins or pads binding in the calliper.
Strangely they’re fairly evenly worn. A sort of raised edge has been dug into the disks; it’s quite weird. I do think it’s a warranty issue but I need it done ASAP and I don’t want to use OEM disks again!
 

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Well they’re on and certainly look much better but I’m getting a buzzing/catching noise from them. Hopefully the pads just need bedding in but it’ll be going back if it doesn’t improve soon!

 

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Discussion Starter #25
I've just bought an Ignis SZ-T for repair. On checking it over before purchase - I could feel quite a ridge on the edge of the front discs and assumed that the pads and disks were well worn even though the car had done under 20k miles and had a full Suzuki service around 3K miles ago. I stripped the brakes today to find that the pads still had almost 7mm of friction material and the disc thickness equated to less than 50% worn. All discs develop a lip at the edge and is usually accentuated by corrosion. In this case the corrosion around the edge of the disc was substantial and I can imagine that as I did - a cursory check could well lead to the conclusion that the brakes were shot. In my case, I cleaned everything and lubricated the sliding surfaces with Ceratec - now probably good for another 20K miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Are these discs directional? if so, they are installed incorrectly - the groove should angle backwards - your right hand disc has the groove angled forwards. See the diagram on MTEC's website. Fitting, bedding in and tips to avoid warped discs

Bedding in pads with grooved discs can take a while - high spots will "catch" on the grove creating a rubbing noise until the pad is bedded.
 

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I've just bought an Ignis SZ-T for repair. On checking it over before purchase - I could feel quite a ridge on the edge of the front discs and assumed that the pads and disks were well worn even though the car had done under 20k miles and had a full Suzuki service around 3K miles ago. I stripped the brakes today to find that the pads still had almost 7mm of friction material and the disc thickness equated to less than 50% worn. All discs develop a lip at the edge and is usually accentuated by corrosion. In this case the corrosion around the edge of the disc was substantial and I can imagine that as I did - a cursory check could well lead to the conclusion that the brakes were shot. In my case, I cleaned everything and lubricated the sliding surfaces with Ceratec - now probably good for another 20K miles.
I had exactly the same issue with one of my Fabias - significant rusty ridges around the edge of the rear discs. I took them off and filed the ridges off.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Brake discs rust - some worse than others, but the action of braking keeps the disc face clean. However, by design, the edge of the pad doesn't go to the outer edge of the disc and a rust ridge develops and "grows". It tends to wear the square edge of the pad. In some cases the ridge can be the cause of brake noises - often solved by removing the ridge. It's usually possible to chip off the major part of the lip. At the same time, it's worth knocking off loose rust on the periphery of the disc. On vehicles with rear discs - the front discs do 80% of the braking so there is insufficient regular rear brake action to clean the discs - as a result, rear discs are more prone to rust build up and pitting. Some discs are worse than others for corroding and in the past I've found both Brembo and Pagid discs to be good in terms of resisting corrosion.
 

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Well disks swapped over, still a heck of a noise even with no brake pressure applied.
I think sometime is up with the disks and I know it’s going to be a nightmare to sort out.
Bu99er.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Presumably the brakes are efficient and the car pulls up straight? If so, this would tend to eliminate issues such as sticking calliper pistons. The discs on the Ignis are retained by the wheel nuts only - the disc can wobble around before the wheel is refitted so it may not be obvious that the disc is being fouled. With the pads removed - retain the disc in position using the wheel nuts and check that the hub rotates without the disc contacting the calliper or the dirt shield (The shield is a close fit on the Ignis). If all is well - check that the disc runout isn’t excessive. Ensure that the pads are located correctly - the pad with the feeler for pad wear should be on the inboard side of the disc. Ensure that the anti squeal shims are seated properly. Clean the face of the disc and pads with brake cleaner before assembly. Use Ceratec on the sliding surfaces of the pads only - the anti squeal shims should be fitted dry. It may take around 200 miles for the pads and discs to bed-in.
 

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Thank you once again; I’ll let the garage know. All was fine with the original disks (which, it turned out, had plenty of life left; naughty tyre fitter must have been hoping for more work) which are being refitted so I can sort out the MTEC ones somehow.
 

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Original disks back on with the new padsall is fine.
Sadly I’ve paid a lot to have the MTECs fitted then replaced and it’s not looking like they’ll take them back. So I’ll have to pay AGAIN to have new ones fitted when the originals wear out.
I’ve basically paid over £200 to have some new pads fitted. Ouch.

A painful waste of time and money.
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
The fact that the brakes are now OK would lead to the conclusion that the MTEC discs were the issue rather than a vehicle fault. It's a pity that the garage didn't establish the cause of the noise and I presume that MTEC weren't forthcoming with a solution. If you paid by Paypal - you can complain to them and you could well be refunded. Since the cost was less than £100 your redress would have to be through the small claims court (£25 fee) and personally, I would also be claiming associated costs such as labour.

I have fitted MTEC discs to other cars without issue and another member of this forum has fitted MTEC C-hook discs to his Ignis - there is obviously an issue with the fitment in question. MTEC are a large, well known company, although their discs are not approved to ECR R-90 - It's disappointing when companies wash their hands of problems with their parts.
 

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I haven’t given up with them and they have been trying to help so far but they are wanting firm evidence; fair enough really. I might be able to get the garage to write them something as proof. Just annoying when a seemingly simple and good value solution turns out to be a pain in the backside!

Thanks again for your valuable input.
 
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