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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have Ignis 2002 model and it works fine, except... the odd thing with immobilising light coming on. It happens weirdly at the same roundabout when it is hot and stop and go or driving slow situation (almost at the end of my commute). Light comes on, then engine starts shaking and if I don't turn it off it eventually shuts itself off. Also every time it happens it is hot(ish). When I turn the engine off I need to wait for 10-30 minutes and then it is OKish. If I leave her overnight she starts fine in the morning.
I had a key made 2 years ago and few after that it happened once. Then few months later again. Then nothing for a full year and now 2 days in a row. Could the key be the issue or something else?
Did anyone have similar issue and manage to fix it? How? Today we ran diagnostics on car and everything is fine. Fuses are OK.
Any ideas?
 

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Are you sure it's the "immobilising" light that's coming on? What does the light look like? Maybe take a picture and post it.

The vehicles I have with immobilisers, the immobiliser will only prevent them from starting, once they have been started you can take the keys away and the light will come on, but the vehicle(s) all continue to run just fine - until you shut them off.

I'd like to think the problem is not immobiliser related
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Are you sure it's the "immobilising" light that's coming on? What does the light look like? Maybe take a picture and post it.

The vehicles I have with immobilisers, the immobiliser will only prevent them from starting, once they have been started you can take the keys away and the light will come on, but the vehicle(s) all continue to run just fine - until you shut them off.

I'd like to think the problem is not immobiliser related
101354


it's the this one that comes on. It's sort of flashing at first, but if i don't turn engine off it will stay on and kill the engine.
 

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These were subject to a factory recall in relation to failing ignition switch electrical contacts - make sure yours has been done if the applicable VIN.

These have known coil pack, crank and cam angle sensor (heat) issues.

I don't know how the coil crank and cam issues will interact with the immobiliser, as that system usually kicks-in after a set period of time after the ignition is switched off, but the shudder could be a separate issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
These were subject to a factory recall in relation to failing ignition switch electrical contacts - make sure yours has been done if the applicable VIN.

These have known coil pack, crank and cam angle sensor (heat) issues.

I don't know how the coil crank and cam issues will interact with the immobiliser, as that system usually kicks-in after a set period of time after the ignition is switched off, but the shudder could be a separate issue.
I checked VIN for outstanding recalls - nothing. Today is the 3rd day and engine did not cut off. I took a different route to avoid stop and go at the roundabout.

Are the coil pack, crank and cam angle sensor something I could check or requires professional help? I was told it could potentially be fuel pump?
 

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Are the coil pack, crank and cam angle sensor something I could check or requires professional help? I was told it could potentially be fuel pump?
Only way of checking them is replacing them. You could pay a Suzuki Dealer to do I diagnostic check, but they would need to have the equipment hooked up at the time it happens and that is not practical. Crank sensor and fuel pump are both particularly hard to change.
 

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NEVER change part before diagnosing the issue...
 

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NEVER change part before diagnosing the issue...
Give it a break - these things don't come with Data Loggers and paying a mechanic/scientist to diagnose a random fault on a very old car is throwing money down the drain. Being able to do stuff myself, I'd rather risk $150 in not needed parts to get a positive outcome over paying someone I don't know $1900 to do the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Only way of checking them is replacing them. You could pay a Suzuki Dealer to do I diagnostic check, but they would need to have the equipment hooked up at the time it happens and that is not practical. Crank sensor and fuel pump are both particularly hard to change.
thanks. I'll go with process of elimination :) I cleaned the battery clamps and connectors (not sure if they are called this in English) as there was some well melted rust or something grimey and the minus one was a tiny bit loser than it should be so fingers crossed this will solve the issue. If not I'll take her into garage to see which is cheaper to replace first.
 
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