Suzuki Forums banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Suzuki Ignis 2000 1.3L 16v 83hp
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1

Hello , I own a suzuki ignis I 2000 1.3 16v M13A front wheel driven. I bought it last year and the original owner told me his wife drove it only in the city , from home to work and so on. Now it has 110k km so I assume almost 100k were done in the city , I already have damage in the gearbox but it's not that bad. I drive this tiny car everyday and it's working well, I changed the oil with 10w40 , I also changed the gearbox oil and the most important thing , it's not smoking and doesn't burn oil at all , also the engine is dusty , no oil leaks everywhere I looked.

What I don't like is the timing chain noise, when I do a cold start , the engine is pretty much smooth and silent , the chain noise comes up gradually as the engine warms up , when the engine gets to the optimal working temperature then the noise is quite obvious. The noise is only when the car is idle-ing , when I rev it up then it goes away.

Is is possible for a timing chain to wear out so fast, only in 100k km? Should I change the entire package or there's another less expensive way to fix this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,339 Posts
10W40 is too heavy, check handbook, should be 5W-30 from memory
Unusual for them to rattle at that age. What was the maintenance history? And has it had regular oil changes?
 

·
Registered
99 Tracker, 5 door, 2L, 4x4
Joined
·
9,983 Posts
I bought mine(cheap) 15yrs ago from a lady that was suffering a startup rattle at (96K) and dealer quoted $1800 to rectify....

I immediately changed the oil to 0W15, within 100km the rattle was gone, now at 268K the engine is still silent on 5W30...

These are no the old style engineering, and do not thrive on molasses....
 

·
Registered
Suzuki Ignis 2000 1.3L 16v 83hp
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Sadly , it doesn't look like it had regular oil changes, I don't even know if the owner ever changed the oil in the gearbox , hence the damage. The gearbox also has a noise when driving in the 4th and 5th gear between 50km/h and 90km/h , I changed the oil when I bought the car and added some liqui moly gearbox additive , should be fine, it shifts smoothly but only noisy a bit.

Also when I changed the engine oil , it was dark black, I drove about 5k km and I changed it again , got dark black again. So I guess it's not good but the engine is fine , the car runs and pulls fine for it's specs. I'm scared now to put 5w30 cause then it might leak oil since the engine got used to a thicker viscosity , at least that's what I heard and also I don't know what oil did the owner use even though I asked him numerous times but he kept saying he doesn't remember. The guy is old , like 60+. I liked how the car drove , everything working fine except this chain noise bugs me. I don't wanna continue driving like this and do some irreversible damage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
866 Posts
Normally 1, 2 and 3 is noisiest in these. Both my current registered ones are the same (input bearing). I put two clumsy teenagers through for their manual license and they couldn't kill the box in the learner car, has been the same for 4 years since I got it for $300. As for the noise, the t/belt tensioner might be ka-put! As the oil thins when hot, could be less viscosity allowing the chain to slap about more?
 

·
Registered
99 Tracker, 5 door, 2L, 4x4
Joined
·
9,983 Posts
As the oil thins when hot, could be less viscosity allowing the chain to slap about more?
That is not how multi viscosity oil works, it stiffens up when hot...
10W = the viscosity when cold, 40 = viscosity when running temp...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
866 Posts
That is not how multi viscosity oil works, it stiffens up when hot...
10W = the viscosity when cold, 40 = viscosity when running temp...
Good point but the jury is out on hot or cold engine changes as well, but it is heat related, oil is changing viscosity or there is expansion of components.
 

·
Registered
99 Tracker, 5 door, 2L, 4x4
Joined
·
9,983 Posts
. I'm scared now to put 5w30 cause then it might leak oil since the engine got used to a thicker viscosity
My advice at this stage would be to fill with a 5W30 full synthetic and and a good filter, let the cards fall as they may...

You can always revert..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,339 Posts
i'm picking the oils thickening as it warms like it should meaning the cam chain tensioner isn't working like it is intended.
 

·
Registered
Suzuki Ignis 2000 1.3L 16v 83hp
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
So, should I go with a 5w30 oil now ? Keep in mind that I don't know what oil the previous owner used and since august last year the engine was on a 10w40. I know 5w30 is fully synthetic and it's better but I don't wanna make it worse like burning oil or leaking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,339 Posts
you're going to kill it on the 10W-40, worry about it if it leaks, read the owners manual, its either 5W-30 or 0W-30
5W-30 is probably the best. It will certainly be better for the car than the stuff thats in it. If it starts leaking or burning oil, then cross that bridge when you get to it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
290 Posts
That is not how multi viscosity oil works, it stiffens up when hot...
10W = the viscosity when cold, 40 = viscosity when running temp...
Not quite correct. A 5w30 oil, for example would behave like a straight SAE5 oil when cold (0 deg C) and a more viscous SAE30 oil when hot (100 deg C). As the oil heats up to working temperature - it's viscosity decreases but not to the same extent as a straight SAE30 oil - it doesn't "stiffen up" when hot. If you drain oil from a hot engine - it's a lot thinner than the same oil when cold. A 5W30 oil would have the same viscosity as a 10W30 oil at operating temperature - the second viscosity number is the more important.
 

·
Registered
Suzuki Ignis 2000 1.3L 16v 83hp
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
you're going to kill it on the 10W-40, worry about it if it leaks, read the owners manual, its either 5W-30 or 0W-30
5W-30 is probably the best. It will certainly be better for the car than the stuff thats in it. If it starts leaking or burning oil, then cross that bridge when you get to it.
I'm not sure if I'm going to kill it , since in the manual clearly says I can also use 10w40. But I do know that going back to 5w30 can cause burning or leaking oil. After all the researches I've done on the internet , forums , videos and such , I still haven't found a proper answer on what oil to use and when. I think I'm going to stick with my regular 10w40 since where I live we don't have insane -30C winters nor +40 summers , even if we have it's for a couple of days a year.

As for the chain noise , I don't know , eventually I'll go and check it at a mechanic , may even change it. Will keep you updated on what I do.
97109
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
I would change the tensioner. I can only speak for the V6, but I’ve seen and had a bunch of them with chainrattling in different stages and talked to a bunch of people that blew their chain up.
I would change it if it’s already rattling very noticeable and doesn’t go away. On the 2.7 it starts with a slight barely noticeable rattling in the first 2 min after startup, you don’t hear it with the hood closed. It should not be mistaken with an initial 3 second fast chainrattle, a faulty tensioner will start rattling slower and first noticeable about 30 seconds after cold start and immediately after hot start, but go away within a minute.
At this point you might can fix it with oil changes and that stuff.
Then it gets louder and only goes away after 5 minutes. At this point oil changes won’t help anymore, trust me I tried.
If it’s not fixed at this point it will get louder, the duration longer and eventually be heard inside the cabin, from there on it will become a loud permanent rattling.
At this point you can drive a few thousand miles, a few months with the full on rattle, then something will break and destroy the engine.
Oil changes may slow down the process of getting worse if not stop it if done very early, but once it rattles loud and permanent parts will get damaged with every hit they take until they break.
But I really don’t know how that translates to your engine, I’m sure it will be a little different.

I personally would change the oil every 1000km until it comes out clean.
Engine oil should look like new on the dipstick after 5000 km.
Do not use engine flush as carbon deposits will flake off in <4 mm flakes and possibly clog something. At the uttermost, use engine flush half the called amount for half the called time, and only ONCE, to get rid of the half-solid creamy stuff without attacking the solid stuff underneath (which will flake off). But that’s a thin line you don’t want to cross.
I would not try to run away from the repair, you could even think about doing it yourself!

And make sure it really is the chain!
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top