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Camber bolts are handy, but most of the time OME kits are set so you dont need them. Always good to have on the shelf. Dont forget to get a wheel alignment done, and take the bolts with you just in case they need them, or, fit them and get it fully aligned
 

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1996 Suzuki Sidekick 2 Door Automatic 16 valve
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Discussion Starter #42
Camber bolts are handy, but most of the time OME kits are set so you dont need them. Always good to have on the shelf. Dont forget to get a wheel alignment done, and take the bolts with you just in case they need them, or, fit them and get it fully aligned
I read that Fordem didn’t need it but like you guys said, it’s better to have them around lol. It’s only 20 bucks too so I got it. And yes I’ll make sure to get the alignment, thanks for the heads up.
 

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1996 Suzuki Sidekick 2 Door Automatic 16 valve
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Discussion Starter #43
Ok so I finally checked out. I’m praying that I was at least smart enough to match the springs and struts correctly lol. I‘ll call first thing in the morning and talk to the guys and see if they could help me to make sure my orders correct. I think the sales ending today too so I’m glad I was recommended the OME set up and I took advantage of it. I’m pretty stoked and excited! Thanks again guys I appreciate it
 

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We need feedback once you get it all in, I want to see what you think of the ome stuff, I find it good. Let us know what the rides like, remember, your cornering feel will change.
 

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1996 Suzuki Sidekick 2 Door Automatic 16 valve
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Discussion Starter #45
We need feedback once you get it all in, I want to see what you think of the ome stuff, I find it good. Let us know what the rides like, remember, your cornering feel will change.
Will definitely update you guys. Can’t wait. I’ll take pics and show the process. I’ll look more into the forum and find what area I could create a thread showing the upgrades
 

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Just keep adding it to this one
 

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I read that Fordem didn’t need it but like you guys said, it’s better to have them around lol. It’s only 20 bucks too so I got it. And yes I’ll make sure to get the alignment, thanks for the heads up.
That is the exact reason they are on my shelf, they were only $20 and I'd rather have them and not need them, than need them & not have them - I suspect they're about to be "re-assigned" as I will be changing struts on another vehicle (a Mitsubishi) in the near future and that will get a 20mm lift which I suspect will just push the camber out of spec.
 

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Anyone know how high you can lift the sidekick without having to modify any parts? Also what tires would you recommend for mostly sand and mud?
I put a 2 inch Low Range suspension lift on a 2001 Grand vitara with 29 inch Hankook tires with good results. I'm not sure it's available for a sidekick but may be. Inexpensive as well.
 

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I put a 2 inch Low Range suspension lift on a 2001 Grand vitara with 29 inch Hankook tires with good results. I'm not sure it's available for a sidekick but may be. Inexpensive as well.
It would be nice, if you could take the time to at least read the thread of posts before adding your two cents - suspension lifts from Low Range is pretty much all we've been discussing - yes, the budget 2 inch lift is available for a Sidekick, they were actually created for the Sidekicks and then adapted to work on the Grand Vitarahas been covered, and, yes, it has been discussed.
 

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1996 Suzuki Sidekick 2 Door Automatic 16 valve
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Discussion Starter #50
That is the exact reason they are on my shelf, they were only $20 and I'd rather have them and not need them, than need them & not have them - I suspect they're about to be "re-assigned" as I will be changing struts on another vehicle (a Mitsubishi) in the near future and that will get a 20mm lift which I suspect will just push the camber out of spec.
Well it’s a good thing you got some laying around lol. Time to put it to good use! Lol
 

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1996 Suzuki Sidekick 2 Door Automatic 16 valve
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Discussion Starter #52
Okay so I called and followed up with lowrange and looks like I paired everything correctly. So now I just have to wait lol BUT... I’m contemplating on purchasing 1 inch coil spacers to pair with my OME set up. It would leave me with a 2.5 suspension lift and the tires would add another inch making it 3.5 which is half an inch over the recommended specs BUT.. the guys over at LowRange suggested it’ll be fine. So.. what do you guys think? Would it be fine? Do you think it’ll change the ride? Should I just calm down, pump the brakes and just stick with what I already purchased? Lol
 

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As we have said, max 2.5 of SUSPENSION lift, what additional lift you get from tyres is immaterial as that wont affect suspension geometry. Personally I'd forget the spacers, but if you do fit them you may find you then need the camber bolts. As the guys at low range say, it will be fine at 2.5 inches but dont go any further in terms of suspension lift
 

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Because of the suspension design, a one inch coil spacer in front will give you more than an inch of lift, I think it will work out to roughly an inch and a half, which coupled with the inch and a half you'll get from the OME coils will net you a total of three inches of lift - enough that you will need the camber bolts to correct the alignment, and enough to put the CV axles at risk of binding & breaking. A one inch coil spacer at the rear will give you an inch of lift, which coupled with the inch and a half you'll get from the OME coils will net you two and a half inches of lift - probably not enough that you would notice the back is sagging, until you start loading it up.

Personally, I would forego the coil spacers, in the interest of keeping it reliable
 

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1996 Suzuki Sidekick 2 Door Automatic 16 valve
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Discussion Starter #55
Because of the suspension design, a one inch coil spacer in front will give you more than an inch of lift, I think it will work out to roughly an inch and a half, which coupled with the inch and a half you'll get from the OME coils will net you a total of three inches of lift - enough that you will need the camber bolts to correct the alignment, and enough to put the CV axles at risk of binding & breaking. A one inch coil spacer at the rear will give you an inch of lift, which coupled with the inch and a half you'll get from the OME coils will net you two and a half inches of lift - probably not enough that you would notice the back is sagging, until you start loading it up.

Personally, I would forego the coil spacers, in the interest of keeping it reliable
Ok I’ll stick with the OME set up. I’d rather keep it reliable like you said. I was looking into it and if I’m not mistaken.. id have to order an inch of strut spacers as well right? So four coil spacers and 2 strut spacers to even everything out AND.. like you said the inch coil spacer up front will give me more then an inch so that’ll just make things more difficult. I’ll just keep it simple and stick with the OME set up. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
As we have said, max 2.5 of SUSPENSION lift, what additional lift you get from tyres is immaterial as that wont affect suspension geometry. Personally I'd forget the spacers, but if you do fit them you may find you then need the camber bolts. As the guys at low range say, it will be fine at 2.5 inches but dont go any further in terms of suspension lift
Gotcha. I thought the tires counted for the suspensions lift as well. Thanks for clarifying. I’ll be sticking with the OME set up without the spacers
 

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Gotcha. I thought the tires counted for the suspensions lift as well. Thanks for clarifying. I’ll be sticking with the OME set up without the spacers
Think about how each part works.
Suspension lift, you are lifting the body relative to wheel hub centre (axle line) with a suspension lift, hub centre distance to ground is unaffected.
When you fit taller tyres, you lift the hub centre relative to the ground , effectively lifting the whole vehicle.

Does that make sense?
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Think about how each part works.
Suspension lift, you are lifting the body relative to wheel hub centre (axle line) with a suspension lift, hub centre distance to ground is unaffected.
When you fit taller tyres, you lift the hub centre relative to the ground , effectively lifting the whole vehicle.

Does that make sense?
Yes definitely makes sense. It wouldn’t matter what size tire I used bc the hub to ground(tire) doesn’t affect the hub to body (suspension)?
 

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Exactly, the suspension is what determines the hub to body distance, obviously this changes as you go over bumps but when stationary that's the measurement you will be changing with a suspension lift. As long as you measure same point before and after, like axle centre to wheel arch vertically above tyre, or ground to wheel arch assuming you haven't changed wheels this will be your suspension lift difference
 

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The LRTK kit that was talked about, is that the same as the kit from Trail Tough?

The one from Trail Tough seems to do the same thing and the OME, but maybe it's a domestic (USA) produced (their own version) of the same thing as the OME. Does anyone know about this?
 
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