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Discussion Starter #1
The Gen 1 Track/kicks have a thin and simple wheel (no air bag or controls) and frankly feel weird to people with big hands, like myself. To replace your steering wheel is a quite simple process, as I just replaced mine.

Find a 14" or 15" wheel you like. I bought a new/no box Grant Signature Series wheel on Craigslist for $65. Leather wrappped, retail for almost $300.

Next, buy the Grant or your brand wheel installation kit. The steering wheel installation kit for Trackers/Sidekicks Gen 1 is $18 including shipping on Amazon. Here is the number: 3510 6053510 Grant APC Steering Wheel Installation Kit. Sold by mz-speedy.

Then remove the stock steering wheel pad with a firm tug to dislodge the clips.

Remove the 17 MM nut and the few phillips screws associated with the horn ring.

Rent a steering wheel puller from Advance Auto for $20. The two medium size bolts with thread in the stock steering wheel body on both sides and the large center bolt/extractor can be turned slowly with a cresent wrench to supply pressure. 3 1/2 turns popped my steering wheel off.

IMPORTANT: You will now slide a cast aluminium adapter on the stock steering wheel shaft. You need to put the two steel roll pins into the small holes on the back side of this adapter. Failure to do this the first time will lead you to manually turn off your turn signal after every turn! Huge pain in the arse, and you will take it apart again to solve this, trust me!

Next put the steering wheel on as shown in the simple pictures included in the install kit, very straight forward. I added a little red Loc-tite to all bolts, did not want any bolts coming off. The horn ring was reattaching one wire and works fine.

The new wheel fills great in my hands and the much smaller horn ring leads to me hitting the horn by accident much less. The 14" wheel of the custom wheel is no problem from the stock 15". I do have power steering, if you don't, the larger wheel may have an advantage. I have included two pics of the new wheel in place.

Overall, a 30-40 minute job, if you put the roll pins in the first time and don't have to do it twice. DO NOT try to get the wheel off without renting the puller! The puller is $20 to rent and is so simple. I rented and returned in the same hour.

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=31386&stc

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=31394&stc=1&d=1396034678=1&d=1396034678
 

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I've never used a steering wheel puller, and I replaced more than one wheel - I don't particularly care for the Grant wheels, the Momo Tuner is my favourite.

A puller is not necessary, because these wheels are not on a taper - at the same time though - do NOT attempt to remove the wheel by pulling it towards you - back the steering wheel nut off until it's on the last few threads and then using the heel of your palms, rap the left & right sides of the wheel rim alternately as if you were beating a drum, four or five blows will shake it free, and then you can lift it off.

I would also not use red Loctite - if you must use Loctite, use blue.
 

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The puller is $20 to rent and is so simple. I rented and returned in the same hour.
Don't you get your money refunded when you return the tool?
 

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Yes Gumby you do get it back.

The puller is the best way, no jacked up threads or wrestling, simply the best tool for the job. $20 to rent and you get it 100% back, so way do it the "hillybilly" way. Red or Blue Loc-tite are both acceptable choices. Blue is for fasteners or bolts likely to be disassembled, red is for more permanent applications. I doubt the wheel will come off again, the first one was on there more than 20 years and had never been off so I used Red, just make sure to use some of either color.
 

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Funny, I would never think that Fordem would give 'hillbilly' instructions. IMHO.
 

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Thanks Unclebucky47, for taking the time to make your tutorial. If I ever go with an aftermarket steering wheel, this may be helpful.

Thanks Fordem, for offering some alternative advice on the subject.

randy
 

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I've pulled steering wheels by both methods. Mostly in the junkyard. I would not want to pull a wheel off a column that I wish to use without a puller. Generally the rocking is hard on some of the parts of most steering columns. Granted, I haven't disassembled an actual TracKick column to check for weak points.

Gentle "drumming" might be the key.... if you HAVE to pull without a puller.
 

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There is a plenty of ways to upgrade steering wheel nad one them is full restoration. There are some companies who could make any kind of custom made steering wheels which in my opinion looks cool. For example, you can try this woodensteeringwheels.com, they have a lot of good examples of their product and all of them looks good and quality.
 
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