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Discussion Starter #1
Hi to all!!

I'm new here!!

Justs looking for some tips to increase more HP to my Samy. I have 75.5 mm pistons, Stock head fully ported, Iskenderian Cam Z-330, swift 1.3L forged crank and samurai 1987 stock rods wich have machinist work to put the pistons pin.

I'm having problem with my stock carb, and need if someone can help me. I'm in stock category for drag racing and runs very well but I can't change the carb because I change of category. . I dont know if there a site I can found new stock carbs or I can send mine to rebult it.

I have the 1324cc block. There any diffrence with 1298cc.??

I see a suzuki head but I don't know what model is, A curious think is that was a roller one. Any one know about this!!!

The other think is that I have a welded ignition or distributor I was running @ 34 degrees by timing gun. But the calibration of the distributor was 12 mil but then i put at 8 mil but really I don't know what this calibration do. Some want knows!!

Sorry, for my many doubts.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I think what I mention about the calibration of te distributor is the "pick up coil"... I don't know how to write it. Any opinion will be helpfull

Thanks
 

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Blocks

The only point I can help with is the blocks. The 1324 cc and the 1298 cc blocks are the same. The 1298 cc block had a shorter stroke crank and taller pistons. The piston bore is the same. All the internals from the 1324 cc will fit in the 1298 cc block nicely.....even the oil pump. If you are running STOCK class and have changed to ISKY cam....will the rules let you replace the stock exhaust to a header and high-flow muffler? There are small things that can be done but your limited with the stock class.



GIZMO
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The onlY things I have to remain stock or unchanged are: the head, the block and the carburator. I think there many little things that helps, and most important calibrations, like distributor, @ timimg gun for examples, I really don't know about that
 

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First thing I'd do is install a header and high-flow exhaust. Clean that head and match port the instake and clean it up. Then jet that stock carb(if they can be rejetted(I have no idea, I run a Weber) to match the rest. I don't know about the distributor other than setting the timing(mines a vacuum advance model). I have an 88 with a basically stock 1.3 litre, 1324cc, I run a 34/34 Weber(most likely a Solex). I have plans for the Pacesetter header and a local install 2" exhaust with a Dynomax muffler. It should scream. I might go the Isky cam route, depends on how I like the other mods. I won't do a cam till rebuild time.
 

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the headder will definitely get you the most bang for your buck. If you are running the hitachi carb you can switch over to the Aisan carb and it will give you a little more preformance than the hitachi and it's still stock.
 

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you can get a headder from lots of places, the pace setter is popular and inexpensive, the thorely is CARB legal....

The Aisan Carb was not available in the US market and you won't pass a CARB inspection with one but I believe they had them on Canadian Zooks and they were sold overseas as well. Check around Ebay for them. They were a stock item on the suzuki so it is technically leagal to run them in the stock class. Don't mention it to the inspector though because it will raise an eyebrow if you do.

Drag strip time... yeah... i was kinda scared to ask that... what numbers exactly are you running on the strip?
 

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Can you modify the stock carb at all? it is very restrictive so any mods to improve airflow through it will help a lot.
 

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They allow modifications like Re-jetting the stock carb, port pollishing, Adjusting fuel/air mixture, forcing the chokes open or secondary throttle plates, but you can't do things like bore it out or add a forced induction system.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Im running 4.24 s @ 300 ft track, but is mud drag racing. Of the carb sees like the stock one no matter if i uses, they only check if is a suzuki one. Some people said that the stock ignition distributor is more better, i am using one of 1982 i think sj 410 motor not samy, one that dont have vaccum( they call centrifugal or correct me) i am running @ 32 on timing gun, so is always running at that timing gun. I really have carb problems between 3000 - 4000 rpm, when you hit the gas pedal, the motor do like if is turn off (about 0.5-1 seg) then continues. I dont know what really are. My carb have all the jets as they specifiedcon the samy book. 85 slow, 140 main, and the others as specified the stock. If any can show me the right way will thanks!!
 

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I would switch back to the 413 distributor and see how it runs then. If you can't get the vehicle on a dyno to get it jetted correctly then it would be worth investing in a Wideband O2 sensor.
As for carb mods I was thinking about stuff like slimming down the butterfly spindles, removing the choke flaps and knife edging the butterflies, mods like that can get a reasonable increase in flow but it seems like your problem is mainly a set up problem.
What plugs and plug gaps are you running?
 

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yes, good chance a lot of your problem lies in the distributor or ignition system if you are getting delay from a standing start when you stomp on it. The vacuum advance Distributor also uses a centrifugal advance for high rpm advance when the vacuum advance shuts off. That way you don't have to set your initial timing advance so high. To have good low load low rpm combustion, like when idling.

Usually when you're dragging, you have the engine revolutions up and you drop the clutch at the start. On a stock suzuki clutch that's just going to burn your clutch and cause a slow start. If this is the reason that you're trying to punch it from idle, then you might want to invest in a dual friction or preformance clutch that will grab hard when you dump the clutch. You would then of course need to reinforce your engine, transmission and transfer case mounts, replace the driveline u-joints with heavy duty ones, and possibly invest in some chromoly axleshafts and birfield joints.

So if you wish to start from an idle and stomp on the accelerator, rather than drop the clutch at high RPM, the vacuum advanced distributor will help keep your ignition at it's optimal point and reduce stalling from poor fuel burn.
 

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My sparkplugs are NKG BP5ES's, 5 not 6... maybe a gap difference on the sparkplug?
5/6 is the heat range, a 5 is designed for a colder running engine. A tuned engine will usually require a higher rated plug because of higher combustion temperatures.
 
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