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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The horns sometimes work sometimes not! What I did I removed the two horns to test with 12v battery, They all work. Probably the the switches at the steering wheel. Any help?? 96' Sidekick Sport 1.8l
 

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Get out your voltmeter or test light and start checking - don't forget the ground path.
 

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The wires for the horn goes through a steering wheel clock spring.
It is possible the clock spring is causing the issue.
Does horn work all the time in one postion??
And then after being turned, will stop working until the wheel is turned again??
 

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All good advice, but, if your horn is up front like a Geo Tracker, the 1st thing I'd do is pull the grill and clean the horn connections, then, hot wire the horn to see if it's even operational. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
All good advice, but, if your horn is up front like a Geo Tracker, the 1st thing I'd do is pull the grill and clean the horn connections, then, hot wire the horn to see if it's even operational. Good luck.
I did remove it to test with 12v battery and it works.
 

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I apologize, read the title, not most of the initial content. Par for the course.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The wires for the horn goes through a steering wheel clock spring.
It is possible the clock spring is causing the issue.
Does horn work all the time in one postion??
And then after being turned, will stop working until the wheel is turned again??
Yes someone told me:
"Mine turned out to be the ground wire at the ragjoint in steering column (in engine bay below master cylinder). Thanks. Can you show the picture of that spot?? Rag joint w/wire drawn in (not necessarily blue). One end goes towards firewall/steering wheel the other towards steering box. Do I need to remove the steering column to access this thing?? No it’s in an ignorant spot but doable. Look in with a mirror and flashlight to see if wire is intact. You may have to turn steering wheel to see the bolt that the wire connects to both sides of rag joint. Please no more questions, read everything I’ve said and look at it. Beforehand to prove or disprove that this is the issue take a jumper wire and connect the steering shafts above and below the rag joint and try the horn. Make certain you have a good connection".

However, I have not yet known for sure where they are??
 

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thas the old style system, the brass pin wears down making horn intermittent. Easy to fix if you know how to bronze weld. (Obviously not in place tho)


if yours has an airbag then there's a big coil with many cores in it coiled up like a clock spring, this carrys air bag, horn and steering wheel control signals.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thas the old style system, the brass pin wears down making horn intermittent. Easy to fix if you know how to bronze weld. (Obviously not in place tho)


if yours has an airbag then there's a big coil with many cores in it coiled up like a clock spring, this carrys air bag, horn and steering wheel control signals.
Yes all sport models have airbags.
 

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Yes someone told me:
"Mine turned out to be the ground wire at the ragjoint in steering column (in engine bay below master cylinder). Thanks. Can you show the picture of that spot?? Rag joint w/wire drawn in (not necessarily blue). One end goes towards firewall/steering wheel the other towards steering box. Do I need to remove the steering column to access this thing?? No it’s in an ignorant spot but doable. Look in with a mirror and flashlight to see if wire is intact. You may have to turn steering wheel to see the bolt that the wire connects to both sides of rag joint. Please no more questions, read everything I’ve said and look at it. Beforehand to prove or disprove that this is the issue take a jumper wire and connect the steering shafts above and below the rag joint and try the horn. Make certain you have a good connection".

However, I have not yet known for sure where they are??
If you look at the steering column, you should see a wire attached to it - at least on the 1.6L its easily visible. Often with the action of the steering column, this wire begins to lose its contact, so that the horn works in some steering positions but not in others. That’s where I’d check first, as you’ve already ascertained that the horn works independently.
 
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However, I have not yet known for sure where they are??
This is one of the risks in internet based troubleshooting - firstly, determining whether a particular symptom/problem/solution is pertinent to your situation, and, secondly, whether, you should give any credence to the solution. You can't find the rag joint on your car because there are none - that particular discussion relates to a Samurai - your car uses universal joints instead.



Where did you get this image from? Is this a picture of your car that you took? My guess is no, you found it on the internet - it appears to be an older non air bag equipped Suzuki - there is no clock spring.

All you're doing is confusing yourself and everyone trying to assist you.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
This is one of the risks in internet based troubleshooting - firstly, determining whether a particular symptom/problem/solution is pertinent to your situation, and, secondly, whether, you should give any credence to the solution. You can't find the rag joint on your car because there are none - that particular discussion relates to a Samurai - your car uses universal joints instead.



Where did you get this image from? Is this a picture of your car that you took? My guess is no, you found it on the internet - it appears to be an older non air bag equipped Suzuki - there is no clock spring.

All you're doing is confusing yourself and everyone trying to assist you.
Yes, the picture is from Vitara and is just for example only.
 

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Ok I am confused.
never heard of a rag joint
clock spring from what my mechanic has stated is one of those things you don't want to get fixed as replacements are found on the backs of unicorns.
my horn was having this same issue of off and on functionality and in the last 3 months seems to work fine?
However as has been suggested i will go sand the ground wires.
BTW can I get a manly horn and stick it in there? I want people to know I am upset not just mildly interested.
 

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you can replace the horn, depending on current draw, you may need to use the existing horn wire to drive a relay and run a heavier current source for the horn via this relay.

I have a big air horn and a compressor on my GV, errant drivers that incur my wrath know they have annoyed me, much better than the sheep's fart it came with.

Rag joints are still used in a lot of applications, very common in race applications

 

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Ok I am confused.
never heard of a rag joint
A rag joint is a flexible drive coupling used to transfer rotary motion without requiring the two shafts to be in perfect alignment - they were commonly used in the steering columns on older vehicles, but have been replaced by universal joints on newer models. Rag joints may also be used for power transmission, for example, an agricultural pump where a diesel engine and a pump are mounted on a skid and the two shafts linked.

Most rag joints are made of canvas reinforced rubber and do not conduct electricity so the ground return for the horn circuit, if the joint is being used in a steering column, is via a bonding wire or contact strip which will either break at some point because of the constant flexing or may be removed & discarded when the joint is replaced by a less experienced mechanic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Found the problem, but not yet solved!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Wait to check all components! The fuse is good, the horns, one behind the grill and the other one behind the right headlight (passenger side), are all good and no rust, surprised when test with the batter still louder with all these years. The relay is good with the click. The horn button and the clock spring are all good and the ground is also good.

The positive wire from the relay behind the glove box to the horn behind the right headlight was broken somewhere!!!

Mocking a separate wire to that space makes the two work.

Options to decide do I need to dig up the factory harness to find the broken wire or running a separate wire, which one is better???
 

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run a new wire, its easier and you then remove possibly further faulty wiring
 
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