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Discussion Starter #1
So I have the 05 forenza. I've had a lot of problems as far as this car goes, but today was a nightmare. I'm fairly good with wiring and adding mods to the car. Today I really screwed up though. I noticed my under glows weren't lit on one side. Found the wire completely burnt out. So I undid all the wiring for them. Also noticed that it blew the 10 amp Radio/Clock fuse I had it connected to. So I put my spare in. Put a whole new set of wires in. Reconnected everything. Turned the key. Then I noticed the odometer was blank and no cel/oil light was on. I assumed the ECM fuse blew too. Nope both fuses are fine. So I pull all my custom wiring out, because I've terribly messed up somewhere along the line. I really think I blew a relay but I have no idea where its at in this car. Hopefully I did blow one and not fry my ECM.

Another completely unrelated when the car worked. Basically the p0300 has been a nightmare for me. The things ive repaired are.

1. Coil pack
2. Spark plugs
3. Spark plug wires
4. Valve cover gasket (Had bad oil leak)

Idk what else to do for this damn code. The mechanic told me it wasn't misfiring. Which is bull because I can feel when it does. Another thing to note it only happens whenever I get above 50 or have drove over 10 miles.

Any help would be great. I'm sorta in a pickle right now since the car won't work. Which means I have no way to work ;-;. Bye bye car hello feet.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Well nvm I am dumb. I found the main relay which I'm fairly sure what powers up ECM. I have no voltmeter to test it though. Which kinda sucks. Although they are kinda cheap at auto zone so it can't hurt to replace, but let's assume this won't work. Any other ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well never mind. I did a nice swap the main relay with the power window one and no dice. I'm sure there are more relays along the way but I know its not in the engine fuse box. Suggestions?
 

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Oh derp. Didn't even explain what I did wrong. Anyways after seeing the burnt wire. I unwired it got new wiring fixed it all up. I have a 3 point toggle switch. One for the charge, supply volts to, and the ground. Well used the same color wiring thinking id never have such an issue (lesson learnt). So basically I put the 10 amp charge into the ground and the led ground into the supply volts. As soon as I switched the key to on and turnt the LEDs on. My ecm lost power. That's why I think I blew a relay instead of the computer itself. I just dunno where to look. Any who I need sleep its 4 AM here and I've been looking at wire all night. Hopefully whenever I wake up someone will have some answers for me. Thanks!
 

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Your lack of power to the instrument cluster is probably the fault of a blown fuse and not a relay.

Get a test light or a fuse tester and retest all the fuses in the engine compartment and the under dash fuse box. Also check any fusible links on the main battery cable.

If the only place you tapped power was from the clock/radio fuse, that should be the only fuse involved in the problem, unless... and here's the bad news...
the wire that was "completely burnt out" was lying next to or alongside existing factory wiring and burnt through the insulation possibly creating shorts in other circuits.

After checking the fuses, thoroughly inspect the areas you routed your power wire through for damage to the surrounding wiring. If you do find damaged factory wiring anywhere, jot down the location and wire colors involved so we can narrow down the problem area.

Let me know if you need any specific wiring diagram for it. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey thanks for responding!

Ok got a circuit tester. Following fuses show dead on the dash board side panel fuse box.

1.AIRBAG
2. WPR
3. RADIO/CLK (This fuse was blown and replaced)
4. ECM
5. AIRBAG (Two airbag fuses not a retype)
6. AUX LTR
7. TRN SIG LAMPS
8. ABS CRUISE (Expected dead I don't have the engine boz fuse for it in).
9.LT R
10. CLSTR BTSI
11. RKE
12. BCK UP.

Checked wires going into the ECM to reassure myself it isn't the ECM. Each wire has no power. Key was turned to on for each test.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Also the wires around my LED wiring appear undamaged. All fuses in the engine fuse box are good.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok so found a 5 amp fuse coming from the engine fusebox. Fuse isn't blown but doesn't appear to have a current. If you unclip the top (not the case) you can see it going through a hole under the fuse box.

Grounds look good and rust free. Didn't see any other fusable links running off the battery.
 

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Make sure the battery is good and the battery terminals are connected and tight. Hey, it happens! Mine had a main fuse directly on the positive battery terminal that fed the alternator, which is why I mentioned to check the cable for fusible links.

The 30A fuse marked IGN-1 in the engine compartment fuse box is the one that goes to the ignition switch and feeds all those dead fuses you mentioned.

You mentioned all the fuses were good, so you need to pull this fuse, get a test light and probe the fuse box contacts. One of the contacts should have battery voltage, as it's connected directly to the battery.

If you have no voltage at either contact, you need to repair the open circuit within that fuse box.

If you do have voltage at one of the contacts, test the fuse for continuity. If the fuse is good, reinstall it and the next step is to verify you have voltage at the ignition switch.

The ignition switch has 2 red wires which should have battery voltage at all times. One red wire is fed by the IGN-1 fuse, the other by the IGN-2 fuse. Probe each and verify there is voltage. If there is none, and the IGN-2 fuse is good, you must repair the open circuit between IGN-1 and the ignition switch.

If there is voltage, turn the ignition switch to the ON position and probe the pink wire at the switch.

No voltage at pink and voltage at red? Bad ignition switch.

Voltage at pink? Repair the open circuit between the pink wire and the dash side fuse box.

Sure hope it's that fuse!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey another question when putting the car back together. I noticed a vacume tube was just hanging freely. Maybe this has been the cause of my p0300? Here is a picture... Please note I've never touched this thing in my life. Recieved it back from the mecahnics like this.
 

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Yeah, that's the vent for the transmission. It just dangles there, yup.
I'll look into that P0300 for ya later, gotta go to work now :\
 

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I'm good at the electrical stuff, schematics and whatnot, but that P0300 is out of my jurisdiction (lol, jk).
Let's hope someone chimes in with insight on your P0300 problem, I fold. :/
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yea I'm decent with wiring (idk how that fuse slipped past me).

Some things to note about p0300.

Never sets the code its always pending. If I shut the car off and turn it back on the CEL is off. It only happens once the car goes over 50.

Something you might be able to help with p1nky is recently my airbag light came on. It has in the past but quickly went away. Now it stays on. Which doesn't bother me, because I know its a known issue with the car. What might the issue be?
 

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The connectors under the front seats come secured a bit too tightly. Not having enough slack, they can work themselves loose or intermittent.
Bad part is once the system registers the loose connection, your airbag light is on for good until you have the code cleared at the dealer.
Mine has been on for the past year. If I ever get around to it, I'm gonna remove the bulb (I absolutely despise the dealership.)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
How in the world do I get to it? I see where the wire enters its just a little hole. No real way to get in the seat tho. Also remove the ECM fuse and backup it'll clear that code. At least it does for me.
 

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Mine has a different issue, then. My battery was out of the car for a few days while I worked on the engine, and the light never went out.
The airbag connectors for the seats are visible under the seats, you don't have to go inside the seat itself.
Don't unplug the connector(s) without first detaching the negative battery terminal, just to make sure you don't trigger the "airbag light stays on" mode, lol.
Mine was triggered by a short (caused by me) while working on the auxilliary 12v power outlet.
 
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