hi everyone iam new to the forum iam looking into buying a geo tracker I always liked them just don't know to much about them I figured y not ask the pros on here any suggestions or recommendations would be appreciated I saw a 2wd manual and a 4wd auto which is better or which one should I be looking into or a 2wd auto 4wd manual what years are good please help with any comments thanks all...
help buying tracker
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Ah, there is plenty of info on the forum, if you search around. The Trackers (and Suzuki Sidekicks) came in three 'generations - 89/90, 91-95 and 96-98. Also in 8v (80 hp) or 16v (95 hp).
The 89/90 uses older technology, and I wouldn't prefer them.
The 91-95 is OBD1 computer technology; the 96-98 is OBD2.
Much of what you are asking is personal preference. Personally, I would prefer the 4wd - frankly, I don't see the purpose of the Trackick in 2wd. I also personally prefer a 5 speed - they will get somewhat better mileage (spec is 25/29mpg). While the newer OBD2 is easier to diagnose problems, as the computer is more high tech, the older OBD1 cars may not be quite as 'fussy' and continue to run even with faulty sensors. It may be easier for you to search the forum and find posts like this:
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki...er/48912-best-years-tracker-sidekick-get.html
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-sidekick-escudo-vitara-geo-tracker/41836-best-year-sidekick.html
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki...ker/56264-best-4wd-sidekick-model-year-2.html
One thing I will recommend is to stay away from the Suzuki Sport. It is not well supported and information and parts are hard to find.
If you do find a Tracker or Sidekick that you are interested in, there are also posts here about what to look for when buying these cars - number one problem is rust, sadly.....
The 89/90 uses older technology, and I wouldn't prefer them.
The 91-95 is OBD1 computer technology; the 96-98 is OBD2.
Much of what you are asking is personal preference. Personally, I would prefer the 4wd - frankly, I don't see the purpose of the Trackick in 2wd. I also personally prefer a 5 speed - they will get somewhat better mileage (spec is 25/29mpg). While the newer OBD2 is easier to diagnose problems, as the computer is more high tech, the older OBD1 cars may not be quite as 'fussy' and continue to run even with faulty sensors. It may be easier for you to search the forum and find posts like this:
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki...er/48912-best-years-tracker-sidekick-get.html
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-sidekick-escudo-vitara-geo-tracker/41836-best-year-sidekick.html
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki...ker/56264-best-4wd-sidekick-model-year-2.html
One thing I will recommend is to stay away from the Suzuki Sport. It is not well supported and information and parts are hard to find.
If you do find a Tracker or Sidekick that you are interested in, there are also posts here about what to look for when buying these cars - number one problem is rust, sadly.....
Depends on what you want to do with it.
If you ever plan to flat tow, you do NOT want a 2 wheel drive auto.
I'm with Bex and do not understand why anyone would want a 2 wheel drive TracKick. IE why buy an SUV and not have 4 wheel drive? These are light in the rear so without 4x4 they are not as stable on slippery surfaces as most front wheel drive cars. Two wheel drive TracKicks are a little lighter and have fewer parts. I suppose that it would be a good "around town" grocery getter. If you only need two wheel drive, and what a small car, why not a Swift or Metro. Much better mileage.
Great gas mileage. IMO these cars are better than Hybrids bc they are more affordable and run on a teaspoon of gas. Of course they are like driving a go-cart on the hiway too.
Prob is I haven't seen one for sale in CT in forever.
But by all means if you can find one latch on to it.
Depends on your age. Can you manage shifting with ease and not curse it when in traffic?
My dad (nearing 70) is driving my auto 2wd. It is mere transportation for him but like anything - reliable for him. Visited him a few months back and had to go through some heavy smudge mud. It made it through just fine because its light. Still capable. If the price is right and more affordable than the other... 2wd is good enough if you do not need.
4x4 - fun for offroad/sand, towing on the list for manual even though auto can do it, not advised due to low tow load overall with any of these kicks.
thx everyone for the advice it seems the way to go is 4x4 I would definitely like to have that option for snow, tow, or etc also the 96 looks like to be the most preferred model my other question is 8v or 16v motor and is the automatic tran any good or manual is more reliable thx again
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8v is one injector, 80 hp.
16v is 4 injectors, 95 hp.
So 16v will be a bit faster - as well as having 3 more injectors and more valves to worry about. Personally, I have the 8v, and, with it tuned and timed properly, find it peppy enough to get me through just about any situation.
The transmissions come in 3 speed auto, 4 speed auto and 5 speed manual. Again, my preference is the 5 speed manual - a bit better gas mileage, and I personally prefer driving a manual. The 3 speed auto is totally mechanical, and an extremely dependable tranny, having been used on postal trucks, etc., for decades. The 4 speed manual is more complex, is electronic, is shifted by a tranny computer, etc. Basically, the 4th speed is an overdrive.
These cars, particularly in good condition, are getting harder to find. Rust is the basic issue, and if you find one for sale, make sure that you get under it and check the frame, particularly by the rear suspension and gas tank where they are prone to rust. Frankly, it is somewhat unlikely to readily find a Trackick with the tranny, top, year, engine, etc., that you want, unless you are extremely patient. I imagine that you will have to compromise on some of the things that you would want to have.
16v is 4 injectors, 95 hp.
So 16v will be a bit faster - as well as having 3 more injectors and more valves to worry about. Personally, I have the 8v, and, with it tuned and timed properly, find it peppy enough to get me through just about any situation.
The transmissions come in 3 speed auto, 4 speed auto and 5 speed manual. Again, my preference is the 5 speed manual - a bit better gas mileage, and I personally prefer driving a manual. The 3 speed auto is totally mechanical, and an extremely dependable tranny, having been used on postal trucks, etc., for decades. The 4 speed manual is more complex, is electronic, is shifted by a tranny computer, etc. Basically, the 4th speed is an overdrive.
These cars, particularly in good condition, are getting harder to find. Rust is the basic issue, and if you find one for sale, make sure that you get under it and check the frame, particularly by the rear suspension and gas tank where they are prone to rust. Frankly, it is somewhat unlikely to readily find a Trackick with the tranny, top, year, engine, etc., that you want, unless you are extremely patient. I imagine that you will have to compromise on some of the things that you would want to have.
Plenty of nice trackicks out west here. The automatic trans, 2 door with the 4 by 4 in white 96-98 is hard to find though. I did see one in WA looked real nice but it was 1600 miles away, just to far.
I have two in pretty nice shape with the 5 speed, I wanted to use one of them for going on long trips off road but now I like them so much I don't want to wreck them. Never had a vehicle I like driving better than these trackers. I do some short trips off road now but I go real slow.
The two wheel drive trackers are usually about 1k cheaper here. I drove 900 miles one way to pick up my 1st one, and 300 one way to pick up my second one, so you might have to travel a bit to get what you want. I'd prefer the 4wd but if I saw a real nice 2 wheel drive I'd grab it, then you can wait it out for a nice 4 wheel drive, lol.
This is a great site, the guys here really know their stuff about these trackers and kicks. So helpful too! GL and tell us what you end up with.
thx bex for the info u really put me on the right track on theses cars i also was looking at a Suzuki sidekick 1994 auto 4x4 any suggestions on that and are they the same as the tracker any one better whats the difference do u recommend this vehicle ty
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A Tracker is just a rebadged Suzuki Sidekick so, aside from some trim options, they will be the same, year by year.
The 1994 Suzuki Sidekick is OBD1 technology - as is my car. Personally, I prefer it, but many here will say I'm nuts. My car engine has been well maintained (owned by me for 19 years) and it runs well, is dependable, and, on the OBD1 cars, even if there are things wrong with it, the engine appears to want to run, even if poorly. They are fairly easy to fix with good information. And you can get a great software program from Rhino (one of our posters) who has formulated a program so that the ECU can communicate with you with much the same information as the newer computers.
Again, when checking any of these cars, get under them and carefully check the frame - that is the biggest issue in all of these cars. Also note that, on the 94, if the previous owner has never changed the capacitors in the ECU (a $5 fix) this will be in your future as well.
The only Suzuki that I would steer totally clear of is the Suzuki Sport - a 4 door model with a 1.8L engine that is poorly supported in parts and information, as not many of them were sold.
If you decide to check out the 1994 Suzuki, aside from the frame, there are other things that you should look for.
The check engine light should be on with the key on and off once the car starts.
The cold idle will be about 1500-2000 rpm (you don't advise if you are looking at the 8v or 16v, and they are slightly different at cold start) - the car should warm up fairly quickly, and warm idle should be about 800 rpm.
You should have great heat in the car.
The car should run with no bogging or hesitation.
If possible, you should confirm that the center crank pulley bolt is torqued to 94 ft lbs (or never removed when they did a timing belt) as this is the one issue with these cars (or with people who repair them)- people remove this bolt mistakenly, and don't re-torque it properly, leading to a sheared keyway on the crank.
Most things on this car - with the exception of the frame and the keyway - are fairly easy to fix, however.
The 1994 Suzuki Sidekick is OBD1 technology - as is my car. Personally, I prefer it, but many here will say I'm nuts. My car engine has been well maintained (owned by me for 19 years) and it runs well, is dependable, and, on the OBD1 cars, even if there are things wrong with it, the engine appears to want to run, even if poorly. They are fairly easy to fix with good information. And you can get a great software program from Rhino (one of our posters) who has formulated a program so that the ECU can communicate with you with much the same information as the newer computers.
Again, when checking any of these cars, get under them and carefully check the frame - that is the biggest issue in all of these cars. Also note that, on the 94, if the previous owner has never changed the capacitors in the ECU (a $5 fix) this will be in your future as well.
The only Suzuki that I would steer totally clear of is the Suzuki Sport - a 4 door model with a 1.8L engine that is poorly supported in parts and information, as not many of them were sold.
If you decide to check out the 1994 Suzuki, aside from the frame, there are other things that you should look for.
The check engine light should be on with the key on and off once the car starts.
The cold idle will be about 1500-2000 rpm (you don't advise if you are looking at the 8v or 16v, and they are slightly different at cold start) - the car should warm up fairly quickly, and warm idle should be about 800 rpm.
You should have great heat in the car.
The car should run with no bogging or hesitation.
If possible, you should confirm that the center crank pulley bolt is torqued to 94 ft lbs (or never removed when they did a timing belt) as this is the one issue with these cars (or with people who repair them)- people remove this bolt mistakenly, and don't re-torque it properly, leading to a sheared keyway on the crank.
Most things on this car - with the exception of the frame and the keyway - are fairly easy to fix, however.
Thx all for your help and support especially bex i finally got my tracker i luv it iam totally stoked its a 96 16v 5 spd manual, 4wd with 80k it has a removable hard top can i put a bikini top on it also the abs light is on.. thx again
I do see that there is a Classifieds section here. I apologize for not looking at that more carefully.
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