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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
At times my grand vitara takes about 5-6 seconds to crank over and start. Other times it starts up right away. I can’t pin it down.

Here’s what I’ve done so far(not in any particular order):

1. Checked cylinder pressures when cold, passenger side is 145 PSI all across, driver side is 150PSI all across.
2. Replaced spark plugs.
3. Had all 6 injectors serviced and cleaned, they’re at factory spec again.
4. Replaced fuel pressure regulator with a Delphi one.
5. Installed an amazon special check valve right before the fuel filter.
6. I checked IAC valve, comes back at factory spec.
7. Replaced fuel filter.

I ordered a Delphi fuel pump, maybe my stock 20 year old fuel pump is on its way out. Plan is to replace it this weekend.

When idling the fuel pressure is 35PSI, when I key on the fuel pressure is 40PSI. I keep checking the feed line fuel pressure with a harbor freight pressure gauge. When I block off the feed line, return line and the vacuum line it still drops in fuel pressure about 5 PSI in 15 minutes. I’m not sure how that’s possible since the injectors came back at factory spec. If I don’t block off any fuel lines, the pressure actually rises, from 34PSI to 39PSI in 5 minutes, 15 minutes it started dropping slowly, after 45 minutes I was down to 10 PSI.

Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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You might try to check the static timing. There is a procedure to do it without the scan tool, but it had to have the correct under hood connector from the factory. I'm not aware of anyone actually being successful with that, but that hardly means it doesn't work.
Otherwise, you maybe could try a Chevy dealer, since they also have Tracker information.
Air, fuel, compression and spark at the right time. Only one item left on that list...

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You might try to check the static timing. There is a procedure to do it without the scan tool, but it had to have the correct under hood connector from the factory. I'm not aware of anyone actually being successful with that, but that hardly means it doesn't work.
Otherwise, you maybe could try a Chevy dealer, since they also have Tracker information.
Air, fuel, compression and spark at the right time. Only one item left on that list...

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
What do you mean by static timing?

I have an okay-ish ODB2 reader where I can read all the parameters that come out of the computer.

Also, what do you mean about that last air, fuel, compression, spark line? I'm not sure I follow. I forgot to mention but when I was redoing the spark plugs I checked that they were "sparking" without the boot hooked up to the spark plug. Also, engine sounds relatively normal like it's not missing a cylinder, so I think it's okay? Starts at 40 seconds:

 

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Fuel leak down, does the FP rise to running pressure with key on, or do you have to crank for fuel pressure..?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Fuel leak down, does the FP rise to running pressure with key on, or do you have to crank for fuel pressure..?
It rises to 40PSI with key on, drops down to 35PSI when running when I checked a few times. I’ll have to give it another look before I start the car more often
 

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Yes but what is it at rest, before key on..does it leak down and then rise to spec at key on
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes but what is it at rest, before key on..does it leak down and then rise to spec at key on
I just installed the gauge today to do some more in depth testing, so far I’ve seen it drop to 10PSI after sitting for an hour, but it’ll start fine. I’ll have to see where it’s at tomorrow morning.
 

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On the back of the left side head is the cam position sensor. Static timing is a measurement of where that is in relation to crankshaft. It is accomplished by shorting two terminals in that under hood connector, then using a timing light to read timing off the crank pulley. The connector tells the computer to run timing at a set amount (say 10 degrees). Then you read when it's actually sparking, and adjust the cam sensor until you get the same reading. Disconnect the bus and the computer now has an accurate reading on the cam/crank so it can control timing. If the adjustment is off, due to wear in the timing chains/gears, then you spark will be retarded by the same amount, even though the computer thinks it's accurate.
As for the air, fuel, spark line, that's what an ICE requires to run. Air is easy, fuel you've verified, compression is verified, spark is the only one left.

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As for the air, fuel, spark line, that's what an ICE requires to run. Air is easy, fuel you've verified, compression is verified, spark is the only one left.
That is not entirely true on modern engines, where a several other sensors the ECU considers for a run condition. The PO does not exhibit those symptoms, he reports a long crank after a long shutdown period..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah I was going to say, not sure what that would explain. It runs fine, it just takes a long time to start up at times.
 

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The PO does not exhibit those symptoms, he reports a long crank after a long shutdown period..
Where do you see that? :unsure:

What do you mean by static timing?
From the FAQ thread...
But I don't think that your issue is spark timing related.

Do you display ANY codes on a scan? :rolleyes:

When starting, are there ever any signs of black exhaust smoke (fuel flooding)?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Where do you see that? :unsure:



From the FAQ thread...
He actually nailed it on the head. That’s exactly what’s happening.
 

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Doubt it is a timing issue, the symptoms do not match..
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I should also clarify, sometimes it’ll take all night for it to be hard cranking, sometimes I’ll go into the grocery store and come out 20 minutes later and it takes a while for it to crank and start up.

Just wondering what the static timing would explain? I’ve tried everything, so I’m more than willing to try that too
 

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The PO does not exhibit those symptoms, he reports a long crank after a long shutdown period..
I asked you where you saw it, because stated was...
At times my grand vitara takes about 5-6 seconds to crank over and start. Other times it starts up right away. I can’t pin it down.
As I suspected it ISN'T an elapsed time critical starting issue. ;)
I should also clarify, sometimes it’ll take all night for it to be hard cranking, sometimes I’ll go into the grocery store and come out 20 minutes later and it takes a while for it to crank and start up.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'll have to do the spark plug test this weekend when time allows. But for the time being, here is where the fuel pressure is at left overnight:

 

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Based on your reporting symptoms, I would investigate a fuel bleed down, either in the pump or a leaky injector.. Your clip show the prime, what is it before the prime on occasions of long crank..

Yes, I acknowledge you just had the injectors cleaned, but that does not verify they are good/not sticking..
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Based on your reporting symptoms, I would investigate a fuel bleed down, either in the pump or a leaky injector..

Yes I acknowledge you just had the injectors cleaned, but that does not verify they are good/not sticking..
I installed an amazon check valve right before the fuel filter, can't be that high quality, I know.

But when I block off the fuel feed, return and vacuum line, the fuel pressure still drops.

To figure out if the injectors are leaking would I just take out the plugs and try smelling them for fuel after shutting the car off?
 

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To figure out if the injectors are leaking would I just take out the plugs and try smelling them for fuel after shutting the car off?
Best is to conduct a fuel leak down test.

Starts at 2.15
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Best is to conduct a fuel leak down test.

Starts at 2.15
In about 10 minutes it looses 5 PSI of pressure. Goes down from 39PSI to 34PSI.

If I clamp off the feed, return and vacuum line that number remains the same. In 20 minutes it lost 5 PSI of pressure. Went down from 41PSI to 36PSI.
 
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