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Hello, im new around here, so any comment and help is welcome...

Im just finishing my engine rebuild for a 2004 GV H25A AT 4x4, i had to rebore it to 0.50mm (new pistons,rings, bearings,etc).... i would like some tips for engine break in... max revs, break in time, and how it should be done. Im planning on doing 2 oil changes, one at 500km and the other at around 1500km... so let me know everything and thanks



20200319_185923.jpg
 

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A good break in oil is the current direction to take. It provides the added Zinc and Phosphorous ingredients that protect vital internals and support the "running in" process. These oils are available everywhere. The more readily used and identifiable here are the break in oils from Royal Purple, Lucas and Brad Penn. Also available in an additive form, are those ingredients from Red Line and others.

You would operate the engine as normal, but keep away from high revs and full throttle events until after a 500 break in period and follow-on regular oil change. At that point further driving at normal.

Your engine LOOKS great! What is the back story leading up to the rebuild event necessity, how long did it take and the estimated cost (if you don't mind) for this total package? Did you use a lot of self-help or did you require the efforts of a paid Mechanic and shop?

Examples found on a simple search....

 

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Also avoid towing and constant rpm operation for long periods - rather than sitting at 50 mph for an hour or two, vary it, 40~45~50~55~50, and so on.

Personally, I'm not against high revs during the break-in period, I favor the "break it in as you will drive it approach", so, I consider the occasional, brief, high rpm burst as you work your way up through the gears as permissible, and gradually working your way to higher & longer bursts. For example the first few hundred miles would be gentle, keeping it below 3000 rpm, the next few hundred would see the occasional pull through the gears to maybe 4000 rpm, and so on.
 

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A good break in oil is the current direction to take. It provides the added Zinc and Phosphorous ingredients that protect vital internals and support the "running in" process. These oils are available everywhere. The more readily used and identifiable here are the break in oils from Royal Purple, Lucas and Brad Penn. Also available in an additive form, are those ingredients from Red Line and others.

You would operate the engine as normal, but keep away from high revs and full throttle events until after a 500 break in period and follow-on regular oil change. At that point further driving at normal.

Your engine LOOKS great! What is the back story leading up to the rebuild event necessity, how long did it take and the estimated cost (if you don't mind) for this total package? Did you use a lot of self-help or did you require the efforts of a paid Mechanic and shop?

Examples found on a simple search....

Nice to know that!! sadly those oil aditives can't be found around here (people around here dont use anything like that lol) and with this coronavirus issue importing it will take a long time...

Well the story behind it is that the previous owner (a family member) didnt paid too much attention to oil changes.... the most relevant for these engines!!!!... so without knowing most of his history i was planning to change head gasket only (it was leaking through there) but.... i found more damage to the engine (crankshaft, pistons, cylinders, etc)... for the block and the heads i sent them to a machineshop... everything else by myself, except for engine handling and mounting it in engine bay, for that i used a pair of extra hands :D... and about the cost, i've spent around $1700...

thanks for those advices!!
 

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Also avoid towing and constant rpm operation for long periods - rather than sitting at 50 mph for an hour or two, vary it, 40~45~50~55~50, and so on.

Personally, I'm not against high revs during the break-in period, I favor the "break it in as you will drive it approach", so, I consider the occasional, brief, high rpm burst as you work your way up through the gears as permissible, and gradually working your way to higher & longer bursts. For example the first few hundred miles would be gentle, keeping it below 3000 rpm, the next few hundred would see the occasional pull through the gears to maybe 4000 rpm, and so on.
I will then, for the first 500 progressive revs, but staying low!! and so on until full rpm!... it will be hard with the quarentine thing, i think ill have to wait a bit for a proper break in, lol... but still i will try... thanks mate for your advice!!
 

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That engine compartment is WAY to clean. You should be ashamed for making the rest of us look bad! Is the rest of the vehicle that sweet?
 

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That engine compartment is WAY to clean. You should be ashamed for making the rest of us look bad! Is the rest of the vehicle that sweet?
Haha thanks, but i don't think it's that good!!!

Well the rest needs a little paint job, but i started from the engine so paint it's the next step. Iwill upload some pictures of everything as soon as i end the whole engine job :D
 

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I use the standard oil that I will used continually for its life. I like to do the first oil change before 100 km. That gets rid of the first filings, dirt and stuff from the assembling, etc. Then do the next around 1000 km, and then on to regular changes.
Take it easy until the oil consumption stops, as that is when it is broken-in. Might be 5000 km or so with normal iron rings. Moly or chrome take longer.
No synthetic oil until it is broken in. The new cars that come with synthetic are assembled in very well controlled and calibrated plants.
And since you took it to factory clearances, use the recommended factory viscosity, which was probably 5W-30 or 10W-30. I use the factory recommended 10W-30 in my Dauphine and Corvair, since I rebuilt them, and 10W-40 in my Mini.
 

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I use the standard oil that I will used continually for its life. I like to do the first oil change before 100 km. That gets rid of the first filings, dirt and stuff from the assembling, etc. Then do the next around 1000 km, and then on to regular changes.
Take it easy until the oil consumption stops, as that is when it is broken-in. Might be 5000 km or so with normal iron rings. Moly or chrome take longer.
No synthetic oil until it is broken in. The new cars that come with synthetic are assembled in very well controlled and calibrated plants.
And since you took it to factory clearances, use the recommended factory viscosity, which was probably 5W-30 or 10W-30. I use the factory recommended 10W-30 in my Dauphine and Corvair, since I rebuilt them, and 10W-40 in my Mini.
Normally i use semi-synthetic 15W-40, factory recommended... well i already started the engine, it was good for about 5 minutes or more (0 weird sounds) then shutted down... also i have a decent oil leak coming from the upper oil pan (where the oring is located)... :(
 

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Actually, according to the manuals I have, and several web sites of oil companies, the right oil for your engine is 10W-30, with the option now of 5W-30 and 0W-30 synthetic.

As for it running 5 minutes and stopping, does it turn over with the starter? If not, something serious came loose. If it does, look for external things that are loose, spark, fuel, etc., like a normal no-start.
 

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Actually, according to the manuals I have, and several web sites of oil companies, the right oil for your engine is 10W-30, with the option now of 5W-30 and 0W-30 synthetic.

As for it running 5 minutes and stopping, does it turn over with the starter? If not, something serious came loose. If it does, look for external things that are loose, spark, fuel, etc., like a normal no-start.
Yes im aware of 10w-30 being the recommended from most of the companies.... Well maybe due to tropical climate they recommend that one type , we got it directly from factory(they were assembled in here around 2005 by GM) and it came with a castrol 15w-40 sticker as recommended oil haha

It turns and starts normally gets to normal rpm then dies... yes im afraid is fuel related, or IAC valve... i will check in these days!
 

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Unfortunately, in many countries, the local dealers recommend whatever is easily available, knowing that the guarantee is short enough to not have problems in that time, even though the engine will not last its full potential.
 

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It turns and starts normally gets to normal rpm then dies... yes im afraid is fuel related, or IAC valve... i will check in these days!
How do you intend to verify the cause ?? They are completely different conditions.. or are these guesses??

I suggest you start with basic diagnostics... Do you have any test equipment???
 

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Alb813: Might I also suggest you start your own thread, for ease of continuity

Add you particulars in the signature, and..

Title it "start, then stall"
 
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