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Hi. My 2007 DDiS (89,000 miles) DPF warning light came on and the unit would not regenerate. Followed by the zigzag injector warning light (limp mode) when the engine was under extra load (climbing hills mainly). Did tons of research and soon realized there were many possible causes - most of which are very expensive (i.e. new injectors new DPF unit new EGR valve new turbo boost solenoid) and that no-ne had a definitive answer, despite the fact it's a common problem with the Renault DDiS engine. Could end up spending lots of cash chasing the wrong solution. Frustrating!

Decided to start with a relatively inexpensive engine carbon clean (99GBP), which takes an hour and they come to you. Amazing results - DPF issue resolved, better fuel economy, vastly improved performance and smooth running. The guy who did it said the clean would not have any effect of the EGR valve, so for 266GBP I had that replaced, and again theres a big improvement so much so I really have to push the engine hard to activate limp mode which still pulls really well. So although the issues are not 100% solved the remaining fault is livable with. I will change the Turbo Solenoid shortly.

Hope this helps those of you who like me faced spending cash unnecessarily. Start with the Engine Carbon Clean process.
 

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followed by pulling the EGR system off and cleaning it properly. Just replacing the valve (which probably wasn't faulty anyway) is only 1 part of the EGR system. You need to clean the exhaust passages and the inlet passages thoroughly. I suspect its the clogged EGR thats caused all your issues in the first place
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Escalating costs re Limp Mode

Costs so far:

100 GBP Engine de-carbon clean - Thought that solved it (for a while)!

240 GBP New EGR valve

920 GBP New DPF + Sensors

45 GBP Turbo actuator solenoid

Still in Limp Mode! If fact it's worse than ever.

Now I'm told the Intercooler is cracked and that's the cause of the staggeringly bad performance.

Replacement cost - 225GBP.


So nearly 1500GBP spent and the issue is not resolved. :(
 

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Looks like the parts cannon has been fired before proper diagnosis has been done.

Home "de carbon" hah, thats not going to clean the EGR passages, have you actually pulled everything off and chiselled the carbon out of the pipes? I find the so called "de-carbon" cleans actually makes smaller particles that clog the EGR circuit further, and won't remove the caked on stuff in the exhaust passages.

Another thing that causes this DPf clog is faulty injectors and or pump. Time to go see a diesel specialist.
 

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Hello bigboona!

I just picked up a used 2009 Grand Vitara DDiS that's done about 143,000kms (89,000 miles) and I get the zigzag injector light sometimes. I think it happens when I push it a bit.

I took it to get the DPF checked and didn't really get anywhere. The "specialist" gave me a list of things they do and basically told me, for what I paid for the car -- it wasn't worth fixing. They listed DPF pressure and temperature sensors, checking the DPF hadn't melted and replacing all the injectors.

I grabbed a Bluetooth EML327 and see a P2002 all the time. When the light comes on I see P0243.

Are you still having problems, or did you work through it?

;-)
 

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Hello bigboona!

I just picked up a used 2009 Grand Vitara DDiS that's done about 143,000kms (89,000 miles) and I get the zigzag injector light sometimes. I think it happens when I push it a bit.

I took it to get the DPF checked and didn't really get anywhere. The "specialist" gave me a list of things they do and basically told me, for what I paid for the car -- it wasn't worth fixing. They listed DPF pressure and temperature sensors, checking the DPF hadn't melted and replacing all the injectors.

I grabbed a Bluetooth EML327 and see a P2002 all the time. When the light comes on I see P0243.

Are you still having problems, or did you work through it?

;-)
P0243 is wastegate solenoid, get that fixed before you end up with overboosting and more issues than what you already have. This will cause issues and damage.

P2002 is DPF below threshold for efficiency, so either its clogged, injectors and pump are bad or a faulty sensor (unlikely knowing these things). Either way its going to be expensive to fix.

Have you tried a basic oil and filter and a couple of hundred miles of good hot open road running to get things properly warm? not a few miles every day, but a decent long trip.
 

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My limp mode caused by sticking turbo vanes

All the carbon that is being recirculated back into the engine goes via the turbo which has variable vanes. In my case the vanes became clogged which meant they didn't move to increase the turbo flow. It was solved by having the turbo professionally cleaned and to stop it happening again they put a blanking plate across the egr recirculating pipe (without my knowledge but found by me later). Since then I have had no problems with limp mode (touch wood!)
 

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I have a 2010 ddis same thing only on hills when I push it hard have changed wastegate solenoid blocked egr and still does it I put new pressure sensor in inlet pipe that goes to solenoid made it worse so put old one back in just a pain I live in Tasmania and we have a lot of hills so I am forever switching of key and back on to get out of limp mode it’s seriously drove me almost insane looking for solution I Pressure checked intercooler no cracks I going to remove dpf next see if that stops it I love the car yet it drives me insane with this darn problem so any one out their with help or ideas I’m open to them as I’m sure it’s not just us few that have this problem
 

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Do you have a check engine light ??

Have you checked the exhaust for back pressure..??
 

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I have a 2010 ddis same thing only on hills when I push it hard have changed wastegate solenoid blocked egr and still does it I put new pressure sensor in inlet pipe that goes to solenoid made it worse so put old one back in just a pain I live in Tasmania and we have a lot of hills so I am forever switching of key and back on to get out of limp mode it’s seriously drove me almost insane looking for solution I Pressure checked intercooler no cracks I going to remove dpf next see if that stops it I love the car yet it drives me insane with this darn problem so any one out their with help or ideas I’m open to them as I’m sure it’s not just us few that have this problem
sounds like the classic jammed pressure control vanes in the turbo issue, only fix is a strip and clean of the vane assembly, very common on these things and doesn't toss a code until they lock solid and won't move at all, then its usually a pressure control solenoid code.
Stop tossing parts at it and diagnose it properly
 

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So I’m sorry I have had computer on it and it gave a code saying the turbo solenoid was faulty so I changed it I get the gravity 2 engine warning light come on goes ro
Limp mode turn off key and back on it’s fine it has no errors or codes showing so that has me confused and I don’t want to throw parts at it that’s why I’m asking if anyone else has ever fixed this problem as I said I have pressure tested intercooler For
Cracks I Am at stage of pulling turbo off of it can be removed without pulling engine as
Workshop manual advises to do surely it xx can be removed without pulling engine and I’m thinking dpf removal as it’s forever blocking up I am thankful for any advise so please don’t take offense to my replys
Just don’t have money to throw at it anymore thanks all
 

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So I’m sorry I have had computer on it and it gave a code saying the turbo solenoid was faulty so I changed it I get the gravity 2 engine warning light come on goes ro
Limp mode turn off key and back on it’s fine it has no errors or codes showing so that has me confused and I don’t want to throw parts at it that’s why I’m asking if anyone else has ever fixed this problem as I said I have pressure tested intercooler For
Cracks I Am at stage of pulling turbo off of it can be removed without pulling engine as
Workshop manual advises to do surely it xx can be removed without pulling engine and I’m thinking dpf removal as it’s forever blocking up I am thankful for any advise so please don’t take offense to my replys
Just don’t have money to throw at it anymore thanks all
It may be too late to ask but do you use C4 or C3 engine oil ? Add aditive for DPF system to your diesel and see if it gets clogged so often again.
 

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So I’m sorry I have had computer on it and it gave a code saying the turbo solenoid was faulty so I changed it I get the gravity 2 engine warning light come on goes ro
Limp mode turn off key and back on it’s fine it has no errors or codes showing so that has me confused and I don’t want to throw parts at it that’s why I’m asking if anyone else has ever fixed this problem as I said I have pressure tested intercooler For
Cracks I Am at stage of pulling turbo off of it can be removed without pulling engine as
Workshop manual advises to do surely it xx can be removed without pulling engine and I’m thinking dpf removal as it’s forever blocking up I am thankful for any advise so please don’t take offense to my replys
Just don’t have money to throw at it anymore thanks all
Codes are just an indication. Like I said in my post earlier, vane jamming can cause pressure solenoid codes. You need to diagnose it properly. Jamming pressure control vanes can cause the issues you are having.
Limp mode resets easily and doesn't seem to come back until you hit a hill and need the power, correct? if this is whats happening, then vanes would be a good start. Theres plenty of you tube vids on these vanes, and I believe the colorado's are starting to show signs of this sort of issue as well. i have seen several here with sticking boost control vanes.
You need to find someone that specialises in these renault diesels, and get them to check the vanes for free movement. You will find a lot of baked on carbon under the plate, and on the pivot "eyes" of the vanes the plate rides on.
Oil quality is paramount as in correct spec, as is keeping injection system clean, this will help towards DPF issues, as will doing at least 30 mins at 100 kph a week to keep things clear. These are not a round town diesel engine.

Turbo can be removed, but its very difficult with engine in place. Remove the engine, you will thank me in the long run when you round off the bolt at the back of the turbo and have to remove the engine to get to it with a hacksaw blade to cut the head off. Its easy to get to when the engines out.


DPF delete can be done, but you need to find someone that has done a dpf delete mod for the ECM otherwise its going to bug you forever.
 

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Thanks for the advise I did wonder about removal of engine I have looked at that third bolt and pondered many an hour thinking of what if!!!! As for oil I run good quality changed religiously every 10k c3 5w 30penrite that is dpf compatible that doesn’t require additive I also run a bit of cleaner additive thru it between services it runs a minimum 2 trips a week of over 100km so it has me beat so turbo coming off the sound of it as local Suzuki dealer has no idea they had 4 goes at it and say can’t find anything wrong with it
 

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While I’m picking brains what will happen if I remove dpf guts and don’t shave computer remapped?? As in light on dash contstantly on or more detrimental to the system??
 

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limp mode and nag lights if you just carve the core out, its looking for pressure across the core, you could fudge it with a couple of resistors so it thinks theres a reasonably clean core there.
and you should be running C4 and changing it more often. C3 lubes better but is dirtier for DPF systems, C4 is less dirty but downside is its not a good at lube duration, which is why you need to change it more often.. The ones we had at work we changed every 5000 kms, had 2 of them, consecutive number plates, same cars, same year, one was plagued all its life with turbo and DPF issues, one wasn't. Pool vehicles, driven like they were stolen on the open road and one still played up
 

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Thanks considering service book says good for 15,000km between oil changes I thought I was being nice at 10k I will have to find someone in Tasmania that’s able to do the dpf delete before I remove the darn insides then thanks so much looks like I’m changing oil I buy also I am thankful for your advice greatly appreciated
 

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limp mode and nag lights if you just carve the core out, its looking for pressure across the core, you could fudge it with a couple of resistors so it thinks theres a reasonably clean core there.
and you should be running C4 and changing it more often. C3 lubes better but is dirtier for DPF systems, C4 is less dirty but downside is its not a good at lube duration, which is why you need to change it more often.. The ones we had at work we changed every 5000 kms, had 2 of them, consecutive number plates, same cars, same year, one was plagued all its life with turbo and DPF issues, one wasn't. Pool vehicles, driven like they were stolen on the open road and one still played up
I think C4 + Ceratec will surely compensate for the lack of lube and not be bad for DPF.I will test it out this year.I replace the oil every year.
 

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Sounds like this little engine is a picky sucker with oil anyone else use anything else that have good results since obviously the oil companies steering me in wrong direction
 

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C3 is fine if you're doing high speed open road stuff, sadly these things tend to clog themselves to a standstill if driven round town.
We used C4 in our ones as that was whats specified in the big DPF fitted trucks, one still gave issues, one didn't.
 
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