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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I was driving the old 89 jx 1.6L on the highway and my fuel just stopped. I checked all my fuel lines, all good, tried starting it and nothing, just cranked over. So I kicked the fuel tank a couple of times and it started again no problem. Fuel Pump connection problems?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ill grab one right away from rock auto. ill check the connection, that would make sense on the kick start fix. Is it internally mounted or a top mount system?
 

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Sir, it's a top mount and internal. I didn't see your location posted but if your anywhere near the rustbelt, you'll probably need a lot more than just the pump. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ill post a few more things i noticed. I found that my foot goes to the floor and all pedal pressure is lost when it happens. It just happened again today and I had it towed to my house and drove my Gen Coupe to work. Im at work now and would like to express ship a pump here but im not 100% sure thats what it is. Tomorrow i will drop the tank and have a look at everything. Any info on what it could be with those symptoms either than fuel pump?
 

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Before you drop the tank, remove the left rear tail light assembly and check the ground tab located just inside there. If I recall correctly its a tab on the inner fender sheet metal. Known area for grounds to be lost. That is where your fuel pump is "supposed" to get its ground.

randy
 

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Actually, you may want to do some real diagnostic testing before replacing the pump - wiring, for example. Not only the ground at the left rear tail light which is a known rust point, but also the pink/black wire running to that same area (and then on to the pump) to make sure that it is getting 12v at every key on for 3 seconds. The wiring runs to the top of the tank, and frankly, that whole tank area is a real rust spot, as muck from driving accumulates there.
I didn't quite understand which pedal you are talking about that drops to the floor - the gas pedal??
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh man so I checked the ground and it is still very much connected. I am in the middle of dropping the tank, I looked and am having serious problems getting the hoses off, the clamps are unturnable from rust and its becoming more and more of a pain to actuall drop the tank, i migth just cut all the clamps and replace them. Bex I was talking about the gas pedal, it definately loses resistance after the fuel cuts, I checked the cable and it is still good.
 

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Just curious if whether, before you starting disconnected all, you checked your fuses under the dash - ig-coil fuse in particular - and with a meter, rather than just visually. Indication of ig-coil would be no dash lights either. But it most probably is a good idea to drop the tank, as the nightmare on top of it awaits all of us.
 

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Since the car started after you kicked the tank your fuses should be alright. Those tanks can be a pain to get out use lots of anti-seize on bolts when you reinstall. I usually coat all the metal above with a good coat of fluid film, rust check or some other rust proofing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the tip Riley, Ive been meaning to actually get it out but ive been working doubles and I personally cant say no to 700$ days. So HOPEFULLY tomorrow is the day i actually drop the tank andcoat the entire top in liquid wrench and rust off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Good and bad news, good news is thru all the rusty bolts and stuff, i managed to get the tank and fuel filter off the zuki. Bad news, the fuel pump floater was much to brittle, all the thin metal rusted and things were bending under the slightest pressure. I ordered a new one just out of peace of mind. But now that the tank is actually off I feel super relieved. Everything will be here by next weekend and hopefully Ill have it back on the road by monday.
 

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Are you saying that perhaps rust from the floater may have blocked up the gas delivery? If so, and after you replace your fuel filter, you may want to also check the filter on the injector, as well. It is very small (10 microns or so), so if fine particles of rust got through the system, they may have lodged there. Good idea to also check all your electrical wiring too, while the tank is off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Update time. Tank is off, pump holding system is out. New pump is here, waiting on holder is all. The screws holding the pump holder in were stripped so I took a zip disk to them and made them all large flatheads, they came out with out any hiccups. The insides look immaculate, Im going to keep the entire system and try to rig up a new set of pipes so I have an easy swap fuel system. I changed the filter and graciously applied anti seize, if only the person before me did :( . I got everything to the point where when the holder comes i can just put the new pump in, plug and play.
 

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I've had the tank on mine out a couple times and it is an absolute breeze compared to my FWD GM cars. I got a new tank and was gonna redo the lines and filter and hanger but we got downpoured for like 3 weeks straight then winter came 2 months earlier than usual. I did get the new tank in, since there was a small leak at the top of the tank. So I'll do the rest in probably June when the snow is gone. Wow it takes me 2 weeks to make $700 and I'm an engineer. On mine the PO had JB welded the line fittings, I cut them off and drilled out and smoothed the openings to fit hose and heavy cable down, which ended up being a really solid temporary fix actually. I checked it all out when I was replacing the tank and all is still good. When I redo it I'll make a hanger and redo the lines with nylon and a more standard type of fuel filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ill agree on it being easier than American cars, unfortunately the problem for me was getting around the rust and knocking bolts loose, when everything goes back together, its going to be coated it anti seize in case I need to pull it again. I work in a prison in Alberta, the land of milk and honey. It is ridiculous the money to be made here with all the oil. Everything came today, should be a quick plop in and then just run it and check for leaks. It snowed for the first time in ages here so Im pretty glad to get it back on the road, I really was not looking forward to totaling the Genesis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well its done, and running! We turned key and heard nothing initially once we had it hooked up but not bolted in, so instead of dry firing the pump to see if it was turning on, I decided to just rig it up and fill it with gas. I turned the key and heard a click from the back, sure enough after a couple turnovers it fired up. The rebuild was a million times easier than the disassemble. Anyhow, she runs like a champ now for sure, now to throw on the 2 inch lift and the new shoes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Update - Drove it for a couple hundered km's no sign of it stopping or anyhing. Temp dropped to -30 C last night and it cranked up no problem with the block heater. Feel a little better throttle response as well. Thanks for all the help on the rebuild guys, every bolt has lots of anti sieze and Im looking forward to regularly changing the fuel filter without 8 million pounds of force.
 
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