The wiring diagram is just great thanks. As you can see from the pictures the colours are going in one end and coming out different colours the other. I trace them through to the other side with continuity. So there is a connection. There is power going in on the hot (b/w) wire but there’s no power going to the solenoids valves. So I’m confused how these should be working. Thanks again for all the responses. ?
Maybe the wiring on the carb is from a newer or older carb as opposed to the 1988 1/2 year on the Zuk’s. so the wiring colours are different. I have had it running since this engine was put in. Thought I would let you all know.
Just to hear it again, I had a pop bottle with a pin hole in it full of fuel. Put some in went in Zuke and turned it over. It Ran. So I ran and put more in the carb hoping it would clean up and start working. Ran it for about 30-45 seconds. Stopped feeding fuel and the Zukie stopped too. That is where we are at. ?
does it actually fill the float bowl? the fuel shut off solenoid is past the float bowl, in the metering circuit.. can you blow into the fuel inlet? if you can't then chances are the float / needle assembly is jammed closed.
I took apart the old carb that was on the previous engine. It has the y on the intake for fuel. I imagine the rest is very similar. Blew in the holes and no air went through. Too the y off and seen dried fuel blocking. Cleaned it out and blew in the hole where that y went. It was blocked too. Seems to be the normal. So I cleaned that out too. Now the float on that old one is working. I will do the real operation in the newer carb and hopefully the problem is similar to the older one ?
Ok so this is the latest. I took the top of the carb off. Float would not move. Cleaned it up and air is getting through now. That’s good. Bad part is the high idol springs are sitting on side closest to firewall are not sitting right and I can’t find a picture online. Could someone send me one the way it should look. Once it is sitting right it is just a mater of putting everything else on and it should be a runner. ?. Thanks.
Top is where I goes on carb closest to firewall. Second pic is the idle. I just need some pictures with the carb together to get idea how it should look together.
step 221 gives a good picture. It still doesn’t show exactly where the spring goes. It never is taken apart like I did with the screw holding the spring in place. I think I’ll figure it out. Thanks for the pics!!
Ok back together running. Have to fix the idol but it is getting fuel and running. Thanks to everyone for all their thoughts and pictures. I was going to send you all a video to hear it running but apparently I can’t. But it is running. ??????
I just wanted to make sure before I took the carb apart. I had to check all the possibilities! But yes the needle was stuck and the line blocked going to the needle and float. ?
I just wanted to make sure before I took the carb apart. I had to check all the possibilities! But yes the needle was stuck and the line blocked going to the needle and float. ?
amazing how simple blowing a bit of air into a line will prove a fault exists...34 posts later and I gave you the solution in post #4. Glad you have got it running, now you know how scary carbs look, but how a small blockage stops things cold. And you fixed it yourself and learned things along the way. Well done.
B is not moving anything... and I don't see A in the carb I have put back together. Runs but doesn't stay running once warmed up.. That is what it was doing.. Now it won't start at all. But different Temperature today..- 8 C today. Can anyone tell me what that A is there for? and What B should be attached to besides the choke at the end we can see in the picture. Thanks again people.. it's getting there ;-)
$150 could have had you running in 30min with a Toyota 3k that offers a smoother idle, manual choke and manual secondary (that won't fail), and reliability.
Worked out real nice on my 87 soft top and now my boy's 88 tin top carb is acting up. Just ordered the carb from Amazon for $66 and the manifold adapter from Certified Machine for another $97.
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