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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi every, its my frist time here.i have a 1994 suzuki vitara. The fuse box came with its cover so i know which fuses are for what their are this two fuses to the right with no writing on them what are they cuz i blew one out earlier and the car wouldnt start.
 

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Welcome to the forum. Normally the fuse box in the footwell is like this:
100504


Note that the top of the fusebox is indicated in the photo.
Are you saying that you have two fuses that are outside of the fuse box?? Can you upload a photo of what you’re looking at?
Can you also confirm that your engine is fuel injected? I’m assuming that, if it’s injected, you are talking about the FI fuse (bottom right) which connects to the main relay and the computer.....????
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes it is an injection and my fuse box diagram is d/f feomt he one you send me i will attach it as well.. their are three arrows . Two of them are the fuses i was telling u about and the third i dont even know what it is. And another ther there is an OBD 2 port their but it doesnt work when i hook it up to my LAUNCH
 

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If your car is a 1994, it will be OBD1, and the datalink connector would be directly connected to the computer, and look something similar to the white or black connectors to the right of your fuse box. Your fuse box is interesting - that vacant space for another fuse, all the way over the on the right, would normally be for a 15 amp fuse, where, if you put a fuse in that space, your check engine light would flash, as that would be one way to get the codes out of your computer. Note that this extra fuse was only used in the US in 1989/90. I don’t know if it was continued to be used for your market....or what market your car was actually built for? I see that you are located in Ethiopia.
Of the fuses that are showing on your fuse cover, only the ig-coil fuse would be the one that would prevent the engine from starting. However, you are pointing to a blue and a yellow fuse beneath the actual fuse box, as well as a round connector beneath that. I have not seen this as a factory set up anywhere (although most of my knowledge is for the US). By any chance is there an alarm of some aftermarket addition to your car?
We have a few other members here that are far more familiar with international issues - I’ll PM one of them and see if he can help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It did have an aftermarket alarm system which was installed by the previous owner and i doubt they would put in any thing like that here trust me alarm installation is very poor and i removed it just now. While i was doing that i traced the wire to the master fuse (60A) and fuse pump relay it had some issues there (crapy electrician work) and i fixed that. The two missing fuses are for the heater and wiper washer which i used last week when i was out of the city and blew a fuse two times and didnt have any spare. Honestly i dont know the market and not really sure about the year now that u meantion it myt be 1990 i said 1994 cuz my friend had a 1994 and they pretty much are the same. Is their a site like (toyodiy.com) for suzuki where i could know the year amd everything ?? I currently use partsouq.com which doesnt specify the year
 

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You advise in your first post that you blew those two fuses with no writing on them, but now advise that they are for the heater and wiper washer?
Does your engine crank and not start? Or when you turn the key, does it do nothing? Other than the ig-coil fuse in your footwell fuse box, the only other fuse that I can see that would prevent your engine from starting would be in the fusible link box (those master fuses that would be on the fender in the engine compartment). Normally, from 1991 onward (at least in the US) you would also have an FI fuse, aside from the ig-coil fuse. In the US, the only engines that did not have that, but only relied on the ig-coil fuse, would be 1989/1990.
Take a look at #12 in this diagram - it’s for the idle speed solenoid for the 89/90. It’s purely electric, with no vacuum or coolant pipes attached to it at all.
In 1991, it changed and would now look like this - the part next to #8, where it shows two small curved pipes coming out of it. In the 91+ you would have a vacuum hose coming out from the air pipe by the air filter, that would lead directly to the idle speed solenoid as shown in this diagram, plus 2 coolant pipes going to it.

Which do you have??
 

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If you provide the VIN or chassis number, we may be able to identify the vehicle from that and then see where it takes us.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have the all electric idle speed solenoid. And for the fuses, the two missing fuses in the picture are for the heater and wiper washer but they didnt blow i used them for the two unmarked fuse slots which blew and at the time i didnt not have a spare so i used the fuses from the heater and wiper washer. So now that i figured out that one of the two unmarked fuse slots are for the fule pump and the reason they blew was cause of a loose positive wire the problem i had was fix . Now am left with one other problem which is the idle dropping after i rev up the engine. This wat happens, i start the engine then it idles low (300-500RPM) for 5-10 seconds and then idles up to (1000-1100RPM) on its own and stays there. When i rev the engine lets say to 3000 RPM l, it revs perfectly with out any hesitation but when i lift my foot of the pedal it drops to (300-500RMP) then after a few second goes back to (1000-1100RMP) and stay idle at that as long as i dont any thing like rev it again or turn the wheel or use the power windows... what do u thing is the problem?? I have cleaned the idle solenoid and throttle body but no use and the fuel pump has a whissing noise
 

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Fordem will be able to give more info regarding your VIN, but it indicates that your vehicle was made in Japan. And if you have the all electric idle speed solenoid, your engine is from an 89/90 Vitara. In 1991 (at least in the US, and Fordem may have better info on this) the ISC was changed to show the air and coolant pipes.
Is the situation with the idle that you are describing, happening with cold start or after the engine has been started for the day??? Cold start on your engine involves the throttle opener, the mechanical air valve and the ISC. When your engine starts up from cold start, it should rev to about 2000 rpm, and within 5-10 seconds, you should hear a very definitive drop in idle of about 500 rpm, so that your engine is now idling at 1500 rpm. The idle should then slowly drop to factory 800 rpm as the engine warms up. How does your engine start from cold???

When your engine is warmed up and idling, and you use your power windows, what does the idle do? And you advise that your idle changes when you turn the wheel??? Have you checked the routing of the throttle cable??

Have you ever done a compression test on the engine to verify valve timing? If not, you probably should, as everything depends on proper valve timing. I’d also check the spark plugs and make sure that they are gapped to .7mm. It’s better to diagnose problems after you know that the timing is correct.
 

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Based on the chassis number, it's a German (E22) spec. Vitara, I'm guessing OBD-I because the parts catalogue doesn't show the crank position sensor in the oil pump.
Launch has readers that can communicate with an OBD-I Suzuki, however you may need to purchase additional software - which reader are you using?

Can you see the color of the wires attached to the fuses you're asking about?

Manuals & wiring diagrams can be downloaded from the link below.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Fordem will be able to give more info regarding your VIN, but it indicates that your vehicle was made in Japan. And if you have the all electric idle speed solenoid, your engine is from an 89/90 Vitara. In 1991 (at least in the US, and Fordem may have better info on this) the ISC was changed to show the air and coolant pipes.
Is the situation with the idle that you are describing, happening with cold start or after the engine has been started for the day??? Cold start on your engine involves the throttle opener, the mechanical air valve and the ISC. When your engine starts up from cold start, it should rev to about 2000 rpm, and within 5-10 seconds, you should hear a very definitive drop in idle of about 500 rpm, so that your engine is now idling at 1500 rpm. The idle should then slowly drop to factory 800 rpm as the engine warms up. How does your engine start from cold???

When your engine is warmed up and idling, and you use your power windows, what does the idle do? And you advise that your idle changes when you turn the wheel??? Have you checked the routing of the throttle cable??

Have you ever done a compression test on the engine to verify valve timing? If not, you probably should, as everything depends on proper valve timing. I’d also check the spark plugs and make sure that they are gapped to .7mm. It’s better to diagnose problems after you know that the timing is correct.
The situation is in cold starts in the morning which is the most severe one and after i have rested to car for 3 or 4 hours which is not as sever because the car warms up faster.if i start it in the morning (what i did today) it will only rev upto 600-700 rpm and will stay there(today i started in the morning and stayed like that for 5 minutes) unless i rev it once. Then it revs up lets say 3000 rpm and dropes to 500 rpm almost stalls and it will go to 700 rpm, stay there for 2 or 3 seconds and then goes to 1500 rpm and stays there. After that i left it for 10 minutes and it slowly dropped to 1000 rpm. Then i rev it again to 3000 rpm goes up with no hesitation and drops to 600-700 rpm stay there dor no more than 2 seconds and goes upto 1000 rpm and stays there.

When i trun the wheel all the way to one side the rpm drops to 700 rpm and then goes back to 1000 rpm instantly. And for the power window when i roll them up it drops too 850 rpm and instantly go back to 1000 rpm.

And i have checked the routing of the cable and its normal.and the car is warmed up and ideling and i use the power window it drops downs to 800-900rmp and goes back instantly as soon as i let go of the buttons

I have checked the compression of the cylinders but i havent check the timing. Spark pulgs i have checked but i haven't adjusted the clearance
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Based on the chassis number, it's a German (E22) spec. Vitara, I'm guessing OBD-I because the parts catalogue doesn't show the crank position sensor in the oil pump.
Launch has readers that can communicate with an OBD-I Suzuki, however you may need to purchase additional software - which reader are you using?

Can you see the color of the wires attached to the fuses you're asking about?

Manuals & wiring diagrams can be downloaded from the link below.
The manuals you sent me is PERFECT it has everything thanks for that. I have a LAUNCH Creader professional 123E and obd2 to obd1 converter cable.

One fuse is black with red strips and white with green stripes

The other fuse is sold white and sold red both no stripes
 
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