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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, im new here from iceland

i have a suzuki vitara 97, with the h20a engine that keeps blowing the fuel injection fuse.

ive been trying to narrowing down the problem by checking the two upper relays behind the glove box which are as far as i know, fuel pump relay vs main relay

all relays seem to be working fine but the main relay stopped clicking after i unplugged the ecu to check for bad caps and connections and replugged it.

the car ran with 30a fuse instead of 15a, but now also blows 30a immediately when i switch the key to on position.

ive unplugged all connections behind the left rear taillight but cant seem to find any ground connections there. fuse blows with everything unplugged

i have a picture of the wiring diagram and any pointers would be great

http://oi60.tinypic.com/292u148.jpg

thanks
 

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You have a ground/short on that circuit, do not use a higher amp fuse, you will melt the wires..

Make a jumper and insert a fuse and lamp into the circuit, then trace the wires with either a DVOM or a tone generator...

Check the heater circuit to the O2 sensors, they are known to burn against hot exhaust...

.... Philip
 

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First, x2,3,4 to Aqua's advice about never using a higher rated fuse. The F1 fuse is 15amp, and that's all you should try. Sadly, the circuit that runs off that blue/black wire is quite extensive. Some people are quite lucky, and immediately find that the o2 wiring is hitting the hood, for example, shorting out the circuit. Another common short area is the fuel pump. Otherwise, it is a bit of a search, however, on the bright side, at least your short is not intermittent.
Fortunately, each of the components on this circuit has a connector - you can unplug connectors to try to find which one, when plugged in, causes the short. Or try with an ammeter. Your basic problem will lie with either the ECU, distributor, solenoids/relays or fuel pump circuit - somewhere, some wire is shorting to ground.
If you have a box of fuses, put your 15 amp fuse in, and pull, for example, the fuel pump relay - does the fuse blow? If yes, another fuse, then try each of your solenoid/relays on the circuit, saving the ECU until last. Remember that each of the connectors has a locking tab that must be depressed to disconnect them. Go through each of your circuits.
 

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Rather than just blowing fuses, the bulb/fuse in series will allow current flow to circuit without losing fuse. The removal of the ground (load) will display in the brightness of the bulb...

..... Philip
 

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Ah, yeah - If you remove the fuse, and use a test light in its place, the light will be bright because there is a short somewhere on the fuse circuit. Then disconnect components, one by one, until the light dims or goes out. Then you have found the bad circuit.
 

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the car ran with 30a fuse instead of 15a, but now also blows 30a immediately when i switch the key to on position.

ive unplugged all connections behind the left rear taillight but cant seem to find any ground connections there. fuse blows with everything unplugged
You don't say what kind of condition your truck is in or how many miles
Rust is a problem on these trucks as the age and the wires rub away insulation from the wires, including on top of the fuel tank.

If your problem is in the wiring harness then unplugging components is not likely to help unless you move the shorted part away from a metal surface. Tho you may be able to isolate the problem to a certain part of the harness.
 

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I suspect that "diagram" is missing quite a few things - the H20A engine has six ignition coils, none of which are shown, and all of which, if I'm not mistaken are powered from that fuse.
 

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If your problem is in the wiring harness then unplugging components is not likely to help unless you move the shorted part away from a metal surface.
If you unplug the component, you break the circuit, so it makes no difference then if a wire is shorted to a 'metal surface', unless that surface is powered.
 

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If you unplug the component, you break the circuit, so it makes no difference then if a wire is shorted to a 'metal surface', unless that surface is powered.
Well yes it does.
If you unplug the component and the short is in the wiring between the component and the fuse (any fuse) it will not make any difference. The fuse will continue to blow (open the circuit) as it is designed to do to prevent fire and damage.

As explained here by the OP...
ive unplugged all connections behind the left rear taillight but cant seem to find any ground connections there. fuse blows with everything unplugged
 

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Ah! yes, but the OP is opening up at the end of the circuit, after the short to ground...

He needs to be pro active and work toward the issue, that way he can isolate it..

.... Philip

Note: not sure the OP is interested,, no post since the first...
 

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Ah! yes, but the OP is opening up at the end of the circuit, after the short to ground...

He needs to be pro active and work toward the issue, that way he can isolate it..

.... Philip

Note: not sure the OP is interested,, no post since the first...
Exactly....

but we don't know if OP opened the circuit going to the fuel pump either.
 

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Personally, I would connect the signal generator and run the loom (non invasive)..

.... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
thanks for all the replies. i'll be working on the car tonight and keep you posted.

does anyone have the actual diagram? its a 97 vitara.

a mechanic advised me to cut the wire from the fuel relay to the pump and lay a new one.... i think ill do that in the end but im more worried about all the other components that feed off of this fuse. very strange way to connect a fuel pump, mixed together with all kinds of shit.


edit: one more thing, do i have to worry about the main relay not making any sound when i turn the key on ? i also cant seem to get any reading from the ecu with a scan tool, probably because of the everblowing fuse
 

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thanks for all the replies. i'll be working on the car tonight and keep you posted.

does anyone have the actual diagram? its a 97 vitara.

a mechanic advised me to cut the wire from the fuel relay to the pump and lay a new one.... i think ill do that in the end but im more worried about all the other components that feed off of this fuse. very strange way to connect a fuel pump, mixed together with all kinds of shit.
If the "mechanic" has not been hands on, caution before cutting/replacing wires to individual sections..
Trace out the circuit....

.... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter #15
im actually kind of scared of cutting wires when im not 100% positive of having the right diagram.. will try the lightjumping first and then see what happens
 

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As explained here by the OP...
He is only disconnecting the fuel pump connector. The F1 fuse runs many more things than just this circuit - I would assume, if the fuse continues to blow with the connector disconnected at the left rear tail light, his short is elsewhere.
That blue/black wire runs throughout the car, running from the main relay not only to the fuel pump, but to the EGR solenoid, the EVAP solenoid, torque converter (if auto), idle speed solenoid, distributor, injectors, etc.
Section 8A page 10 and 11 at Acks FAQS may help:
Ack's FAQ 1996 Geo Tracker Factory Service Manual
 

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He is only disconnecting the fuel pump connector. The F1 fuse runs many more things than just this circuit - I would assume, if the fuse continues to blow with the connector disconnected at the left rear tail light, his short is elsewhere.
That blue/black wire runs throughout the car, running from the main relay not only to the fuel pump, but to the EGR solenoid, the EVAP solenoid, torque converter (if auto), idle speed solenoid, distributor, injectors, etc.
Section 8A page 10 and 11 at Acks FAQS may help:
Ack's FAQ 1996 Geo Tracker Factory Service Manual
Remember this...
I have learned never to presume here....;)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bex View Post
He is only disconnecting the fuel pump connector. The F1 fuse runs many more things than just this circuit - I would assume, if the fuse continues to blow with the connector disconnected at the left rear tail light, his short is elsewhere.

Remember this...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bex View Post
I have learned never to presume here....

Actually Bex reported a logical conclusion to the information, she wrongly identified her findings as an assumption/presumption.:eek:

..... Philip
 

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ive unplugged all connections behind the left rear taillight but cant seem to find any ground connections there. fuse blows with everything unplugged
Yup, actually no assumption here, considering the above info from the poster.....:eek:
 

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I would assume, if the fuse continues to blow with the connector disconnected at the left rear tail light, his short is elsewhere.
Which IS what I was saying all along :)
 
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