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You should be able to turn it by hand with the engine off and feel drag on it. How much drag I'm not sure of an exact torque. The main thing is it is fluid filled and if bad there should be a leak showing.
 

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The fan mostly freewheels until the air around it gets hot. Then the coiled bi-metallic strip in the center causes it to engage and it pulls air. Over time, the fluid can leak out and it can look like it's working but not actually be moving much air.

When I diagnosed mine, I let the engine idle 'til it was HOT, then held the tip of the blade with a stick of wood while re-starting and running. The additional force of the wood pressed up against the end of the blade prevented the fan from turning, despite the thermostat being wide open and the temp gauge needle being way higher than midway & "normal".

I found it easiest to remove the radiator to replace the fan clutch, and used the opportunity to give the radiator a good internal cleaning. I've read that it is possible to replace the clutch by removing (and then reinstalling) the water pump, but I would choose not to break the seal. If you have the original water pump, it would be a good time to replace it as well. They last only about 100K miles anyway.
 

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If I remember right, you remove the bolts from the fan first (box end wrench), then remove just the fan shroud, and lift both of them up and out. This way you only remove the minimum of 'stuff' w/o loosing any coolant or needing new gaskets.

When I did mine I added a electric fan to the front of the rad cause I did a lot of slow crawling and push a plow. both are slow going and work the engine hard but there really isn't much air flow. Oh, and I just went simple. rather than using a thermo switch. I just added a toggle inside the cab.
Just running a electric fan and removing the stocker may save a few ponies.(?)
 

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Yup, I had to do that recently and it's only 4 little nuts on the fan and a couple bolts on the shroud. It probably took 15 minutes max.
 
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