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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I had the car smog tested back in January and it barely passed (HC). The test is only good for 30 days and I didn't get the registration updated until May. So, I had to retest.

This tracker runs great. I have never had any issues with the engine since purchasing it 2 years ago. Runs smooth through all the gears and idles at 800.

The test came back failed due to HC levels. The max is 62. My tracker had 64. The smog guy said that is usually a problem with the oxygen sensor. Everything I looked at online says it is an ignition problem. So, I dug into the ignition system. No CEL light, but did get a 44 code when I checked it. TPS switch problem.

Cold Compression is 150, 150, 150, 155. Did not check it hot. Plugs look good. Timing is 8BTD. At this point, the tracker is still running great. At this time, i do not have any means of testing the fuel pressure.

Then, I followed the TPS calibration routine from BEX (post on 2/21/12). Now, the tracker idles good like before. But, when I accelerate, the engine seems to stall between 1200-1600 RPM. The engine floats up and down while in that range. As I accelerate past that point, it smooths out and runs good.

Need some advise. The DVM shows the TPS runs from infinity to 21 ohms. About 16 ohms just as it jumps to infinity. I lock it at this point where it jumps.

Is a 2.4mm feeler gauge correct? the books (Haynes/Chiltons - yes unfortunately, I do glance at them sometimes) say 0.4mm. Using their method is almost impossible. It states that the jump point from ohms to infinity is a 0.1mm gap. 0.5mm shows ohms. 0.3mm shows infinity. That is the thickness of a sheet of paper. Wow.

Sadly, if I can get it running smooth again, I really don't know if it will pass. The only option I have is to have them retest it. I only get one retest. If it fails, I have to start over.

Also, is the idle stop the same a idle speed adjust? I am adjusting the allen screw with the lock nut. The screw that hits the dashpot is a security torx screw. I have never adjusted that screw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
BTW, CA tests at 2 speeds. 15MPH (1896RPM). and 25MPH (2152RPM). Only the 25MPH numbers failed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cold compression is 150,150,150,155. Hot compression is 165,165,165,170. Putting oil in the cylinder gave me 190,190,195,200. What is this telling me?

Got the floating tach to clear up. TPS reads correctly. Set idle of warm engine at 800RPM. Running smoothly now. So, I let it sit awhile. Now, when I start it, the engine immediately idles at 200 RPM. Engine is still warm.

Checked EGR and it is clean. It tested good.

But it still runs worse than when I started.
 

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The oil in the cylinders (and a teaspoon of it) and increased compression would indicate ring wear - probably not unusual in an old engine. But the TPS situation....2.2mm feeler gauge on the manual tranny (0.086"). Presumably you had the throttle opener either retracted or removed from the car. Anyway, when you do the TPS calibration, you need to move the TPS all the way clockwise first, then slowly back counterclockwise - if you continue to go past where you need to lock it down (where you first just see the ohms register) there should be no jump in the measurement - it should move smoothly in accordance to your moving the TPS. The connector to the TPS is disconnected, by the way, when you are doing this.
Code 44 basically sets when your engine is idling at less than 1000 rpms, and yet your TPS idle switch is off. Your lockdown figure on the TPS needs to be as low as possible (and factory spec is 500 ohms or less). You can also check at the connector at the ECU - the yellow connector - with the TPS connector connected (and locked down to where you think it should be) check the pins for the blue/white wire (idle switch) and grey/ yellow ( ground). This should also show the same resistance as you had at the TPS (less than 500 ohms).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks BEX. Based on your post, I got it worked out. Once it bounces off infinity, the numbers are smooth to the full counterclockwise position. My real problem was using the idle stop screw to adjust idle speed. Oops. Once I used the correct idle adjustment screw, everything is purring fine. Tomorrow I will get it tested and move on.

Don't have the tools to replace the rings. Maybe have that done another day.
 

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If your Tracker has over 100K miles on it, it's time to replace the O2 sensor whether it passes smog or not. Check Rock Auto for reasonable prices on a direct fit plug-in sensor. You may get better gas mileage if you change it.

I just had high NOX on a CA test and had to replace a two year old CAT to get it to pass even though the EGR valve was working perfectly.
 

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The FSM recommends that the o2 be replaced every 100,000 miles - mine was still cycling properly (using Rhino's interface to check) but I replaced it finally at 170,000 miles....just to be on the safe side...;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Tracker passed the smog test. HC numbers a little better. Now I can dig into it and do a little more. Guess I will go ahead and replace the O2 sensor. no idea when or if it was replaced.

Thanks All.
 

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Glad you got it sorted!! Just for your info, there is a special socket for removing the o2 sensor - it has a slit down the side so that the wires don't get in the way. And use caution - if your o2 is original, it is probably baked in, and it is easy enough to crack the exhaust manifold getting it out.
 
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