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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Engine Swap: Power To Weight Ratio Info. (Both Gas & Diesel Engines)

Here is Power To Weight Ratio info for common Samurai engine swaps.

**I have done my best to make sure the information provided is accurate.**

90-95 Samurai 1.3L 8V EFI I4 (86-90 1.3L Carb I4)
Horsepower: 66 @ 6,000rpm (63 @ 6,000rpm)
Torque (ft-lbs): 76 @ 3,500rpm
Power To Weight: 2,046lbs* % 76Tq = 1Tq - 26.92lbs
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Gas Engines:
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95 Sidekick/Tracker 1.6L 8V TBI I4 (Trail Tough Kit)
Horsepower: 80 @ 5,400rpm
Torque (ft-lbs): 94 @ 3,000rpm
Power To Weight: 2,046lbs* % 76Tq = 1Tq - 21.76lbs
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96 Sidekick/Tracker 1.6L 16V MPI I4 (Trail Tough Kit & SuzukiLightningConversion)
Horsepower: 95 @ 5,600rpm
Torque (ft-lbs): 98 @ 3,500rpm
Power To Weight: 2,046lbs* % 98Tq = 1Tq - 20.87lbs
(Must have at least 2" lift for oil pan to clear front axle)
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00 Vitara/Tracker 2.0L (Trail Tough Kit)
Horsepower: 127 @ 6,000rpm
Torque (ft-lbs): 134 @ 3,000rpm
Power To Weight: 2,046lbs* % 134Tq = 1Tq - 15.26lbs
:)imsorry:, Lift amount needed unknown)
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Chevy 4.3L Vortec V6 (Suzuki Lightning Conversion)
Horsepower: 190 @ 4,400rpm
Torque (ft-lbs): 250 @ 2,800rpm
Power To Weight: 2,046lbs* % 250Tq = 1Tq - 8.18lbs
(Must have at least a 3" lift for oil pan to clear front axle)
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Fuel Injection Letters Meaning
EFI = Electric Fuel Injection
TBI = Throttle Body Injection (Same as EFI)
MPI = Multi-point Injection
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Diesel Engines: (Info found Here)
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86 1.6 Diesel (Haven't Located Installation Kit)
Horsepower: 52 @ 4800rpm
Torque (ft-lbs): 72 @2000rpm
Power To Weight: 2,046lbs* % 72Tq = 1Tq - 28.41lbs
:)imsorry:, Lift amount needed unknown)
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86 1.6L Turbo Diesel (Haven't Located Installation Kit)
Horsepower: 68 @ 4500rpm
Torque (ft-lbs): 98 @ 2800 rpm
Power To Weight: 2,046lbs* % 98Tq = 1Tq - 20.87lbs
:)imsorry:, Lift amount needed unknown)
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* Vehicle Weight is Curb "NOT" GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight)
*+ I used Curb Weight as base line to give you a idea of power differents between common engine swaps. I did this because it would be almost impossible to give average common weight for modified a Samurai, because of unlimited number of parts combinations available.

How To Choose Which Engine Is Right For You.

1st, What size tires & lift do you have?
- If your running 2 - 3" lift an 31's or smaller do a 4.16:1 t-case & 4.57 ring & pinion gear swap, then see how you fell about power problem.
- Actually, regardless of engine you go with you should regear your transfer case & axles so your engine doesn't work s0 hard to get you moving an keep you moving. Other thing is regear helps off-road since with engine not working so hard to spin your tires you can crawl slower or gently throttle your way up rock face.

2nd, Think about is what are your plans for your rig.
- Yeah I'll admit that extremely tweaked buggy you saw on tv climbing that jaw dropping 80* hill would look great sitting in driveway but in reality the person driving it does have to drive it to work at 6am monday morning.

3rd, What's your budget?
- Yes that Chevy 262 V6 would be X-Rated fun in your rig but it's gonna run you $6,175.00 for complete kit :eek:, not to mention cost of stronger drivetrain components.

I hope the information i have provided you was helpful, In Helping You Decide Which Swap To Do.
Mike124
 

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hey yea that's even better than the 16v swap. i was told with the lighter samurai components i should be right around 105hp so i basically just think it's about 100hp now which is so much nicer than it was stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
hey yea that's even better than the 16v swap. i was told with the lighter samurai components i should be right around 105hp so i basically just think it's about 100hp now which is so much nicer than it was stock.
Yeah, you've gone from 4 lazy Squirrels to 4 Squirrels on steroids.

I'm adding 1.6L 16V to list.
 

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You seem to be assuming that the weight of the Sammy remains unchanged. If you start to factor in the weight of thre engine and box then its going to change. A Sammy with a Vortec and the drivetrain to handle the power will be a lot heavier. For me 1.6 16V everytime.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You seem to be assuming that the weight of the Sammy remains unchanged. If you start to factor in the weight of thre engine and box then its going to change. A Sammy with a Vortec and the drivetrain to handle the power will be a lot heavier. For me 1.6 16V everytime.
Your correct. If you were to install a V6, vehicle weight will increase big time because of need for stronger transmission, t-case, drive shafts an axles to handle power an it be impossible to calculate a common weight because of difference setups from Samurai to Samurai. That's why i used Curb weight as base line for each swap to give you an idea of what the power differents would be for each swap.
 

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Mine is definitely worse than the numbers posted here for the stock engine. I started out with a hardtop LWB then put armor plate for the gas tank, differential pumpkins, rocker panels, as well as a brush guard up front. Armor for the t-case is coming soon..

I really have to upgrade the engine. Does anyone have gas mileage numbers for the various engine options listed? It'd be interesting to see those beside the power-weight numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Mine is definitely worse than the numbers posted here for the stock engine. I started out with a hardtop LWB then put armor plate for the gas tank, differential pumpkins, rocker panels, as well as a brush guard up front. Armor for the t-case is coming soon..

I really have to upgrade the engine. Does anyone have gas mileage numbers for the various engine options listed? It'd be interesting to see those beside the power-weight numbers.
I'm not 100% but going with either 1.6L you should get better mpg then now cause engine won't be working as hard to get vehicle moving an keep it moving.

I'll include average city/highway mpg info with info above, if can get people to post what there getting.
 

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I'm not 100% but going with either 1.6L you should get better mpg then now cause engine won't be working as hard to get vehicle moving an keep it moving.
This sounds logical. If at all there will be a drop in gas mileage I imagine that it will be negligible compared to the performance gain.

My lwb used to do 9.4km/li in the city, and around 11 in the highway. That was with the stock engine (carb) running 30in tires, but was before all the armor plate and the 4.16 t-case crawler gears came on. The number is lower now but I still have to measure what it is exactly.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This sounds logical. If at all there will be a drop in gas mileage I imagine that it will be negligible compared to the performance gain.

My lwb used to do 9.4km/li in the city, and around 11 in the highway. That was with the stock engine (carb) running 30in tires, but was before all the armor plate and the 4.16 t-case crawler gears came on. The number is lower now but I still have to measure what it is exactly.
I'd be happy with 1.6L 8V setup in wither of my Samurai's.

If was going to do a swap that took alot of effort to install, i'd think about upgrading entire drive system an going with Diesel or V6 swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That's what I was thinking of also. A number of people I know have done the swap and are happy with it.
I though of 16V 1.6L or Diesel but i don't want to deal with the extra wiring needed.

The 4ft-lbs of torque the 16v 1.6L puts out could easily be gained with 8v 1.6L by installing tuned header, performance cat an 2-1/4" exhaust system.
 

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I though of 16V 1.6L or Diesel but i don't want to deal with the extra wiring needed.

The 4ft-lbs of torque the 16v 1.6L puts out could easily be gained with 8v 1.6L by installing tuned header, performance cat an 2-1/4" exhaust system.
Besides, diesel engines are usually heavier. I'd rather have the added weight in the form of a winch.

Yup, an 8v 1.6 with a high performance exhaust system seems the way to go.
 

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i'm not so sure about the 8v. it is carbureted too :-(

a friend of mine has the 1.6L 8v swap and all it feels like is you maybe tuned up the stock 1.3 for a little more power. if you are going to go through all the trouble of a motor swap, most definitely make it worth it.

with your stock engine you have what 55-60hp to the wheel? with the fuel injected 16v will be getting about 105. the 8v is no where near that. i would guess by the power difference in driving both, maybe 70hp if that. i could be wrong. im just saying how it feels driving both. i wouldn't waste my time with an engine swap to another carbureted motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
i'm not so sure about the 8v. it is carbureted too :-(
The 1.6L 8v is throttle body injection that's why you need to add a electric fuel pump if you have a carburetted 1.3L.

a friend of mine has the 1.6L 8v swap and all it feels like is you maybe tuned up the stock 1.3 for a little more power. if you are going to go through all the trouble of a motor swap, most definitely make it worth it.

with your stock engine you have what 55-60hp to the wheel? with the fuel injected 16v will be getting about 105. the 8v is no where near that. i would guess by the power difference in driving both, maybe 70hp if that. i could be wrong. im just saying how it feels driving both. i wouldn't waste my time with an engine swap to another carbureted motor.
Don't take this wrong, but did you even read what i posted?

The 8v 1.6L puts out 80hp an 16v 1.6L 94hp, thats 14hp differents, which doesn't matter anyways because horsepower doesn't move your vehicle. A engine's horsepower rating is amount of weight the engine can lift 1ft for 1second. Torque is number that matters, it what turns your wheels, just look at 18wheeler engine specs most of them put out 500-600hp an 2,000-2500ft-lbs of torque.

Now 1 of the reason you do a engine swap, is to get more power to turn bigger tires, so if your going that route you might as well invest in set of dana axles, a stronger t-case an transmission then drop a 4.3L in. That would be worth it's price tag, since it would let you run just about any size tire you wanted with power to spare.
 

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Outside of the US the 8V motor came in both TBI and carb versions. There isn't that much difference between a mildly tuned 1.3 and a 1.6. A 1.3 with Weber, headers and exhaust will make 80bhp, same as a 1.6. The 1.6 will have a better spread of power though. If your friend is running the 1.6 with the 1.3 carb then it won't make much more power than a stock 1.3, the Sammy carb is quite restrictive on the 1.3.
 

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But if you run the 1.3 EFI setup on a 1.6 then the computer will compensate. Been there, ran that.
The throttle body on the 1.3 is smaller than the 1.6 so you won't get the full power. If you're going to run EFI then why not fit the full 1.6 setup?
I fitted the 8V with the Sammy carb but regretted it. I didn't want to spend money on a 15-20yr old 1.6 carb and I got a really good deal on a 97bhp 16V Baleno/Esteem engine. That will be fitted in the spring.
 
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