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Discussion Starter #1
My daughter 2007 Sedan Forenza started a crazy problem this week.
She told me that for few times while driving the car the engine suddenly will stop running without any warning. Engine does not stall or make any unusual noise or nothing similar. It happens more than one or two times per day.
After car stop running she start the engine again and it run as nothing happened.
She brought the car to Autozone to check for any engine light code and the store guy said that it can be some bad wire connection or alternator.
Personally I don't believe that alternator will give any similar problem.
Anyway, I need some help from where to start troubleshooting this issue.
Thanks
 

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hi. well actually if there is a problem with the alternator, if its not working, the car will shut down. the cars power still runs off of it under driving conditions. im not saying thats your problem, just that it can happen. heres a link to TSB's for the 07 forenza. it might come in handy.
http://www.ownersite.com/tsb/tsbs.cfm/2007/SUZUKI/FORENZA/
i did notice down towards the bottom theres one about the throttle actuator. if the throttle isnt working correctly it could cause the car to choke out and stall. i would think you would get some kind of sputtering first though. unfortunately something like this would be very hard to diagnose. wiring issues are definitely NOT my strong point. i think your best bet is to leave the car with a trusted mechanic. i think there are a number of things it could be from bad wiring to a problem with the ECU. i would try and get as much info about what happens as possible before bringing it in that will make it easier to diagnose. does it happen when the car is hot, cold, at a certain speed, does the car loose electrical power or the engine just shuts off, does it start right back up or does it need a minute before it will restart. you could check the connections to the alternator make sure theyre all plugged in and tight also wouldnt hurt to check the battery make sure the leads are on and tight. keep us informed whatever you find out can help someone else later on. any other questions just ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hi. well actually if there is a problem with the alternator, if its not working, the car will shut down. the cars power still runs off of it under driving conditions. im not saying thats your problem, just that it can happen. heres a link to TSB's for the 07 forenza. it might come in handy.
http://www.ownersite.com/tsb/tsbs.cfm/2007/SUZUKI/FORENZA/
i did notice down towards the bottom theres one about the throttle actuator. if the throttle isnt working correctly it could cause the car to choke out and stall. i would think you would get some kind of sputtering first though. unfortunately something like this would be very hard to diagnose. wiring issues are definitely NOT my strong point. i think your best bet is to leave the car with a trusted mechanic. i think there are a number of things it could be from bad wiring to a problem with the ECU. i would try and get as much info about what happens as possible before bringing it in that will make it easier to diagnose. does it happen when the car is hot, cold, at a certain speed, does the car loose electrical power or the engine just shuts off, does it start right back up or does it need a minute before it will restart. you could check the connections to the alternator make sure theyre all plugged in and tight also wouldnt hurt to check the battery make sure the leads are on and tight. keep us informed whatever you find out can help someone else later on. any other questions just ask.
About alternator as issue, I was sure that with car running power can come from battery or alternator. in this case if alternator fail power will continue flowing from battery. It is the way that I was sure it should be.
 

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hi. the battery stores a charge, mostly for starting the car later, the alternator creates the charge. its possible for the car to run on battery power but without the alternator to recharge the battery a car wont run for very long. every little electrical function will draw power from the battery and it wont have anything to recharge it, eventually the battery will die.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
hi. the battery stores a charge, mostly for starting the car later, the alternator creates the charge. its possible for the car to run on battery power but without the alternator to recharge the battery a car wont run for very long. every little electrical function will draw power from the battery and it wont have anything to recharge it, eventually the battery will die.
My daughter just told me that the engine turns off most the times when driving in local roads at low speed and rpm. I will take a look on it very soon and will inform the forum what I found and if problem was solved
By the way, that cable connected to the positive of the battery ( not the big gauge ) have a kind of overload in it, what is that cable for?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Dear 7-even;
I am sorry for the confusion about alternator and battery. The reason of the confusion is that I work a lot on my diesel cars and they do not need electricity to keep the motor running and I almost don't have to deal with this kind of electrical issues.
About the Suzuki problem, I will agree with you about if alternator fail it will shut off the engine but not other accessories connected to battery.
Talking about alternator, is there any way to test it without removing it from the car?
I know that Suzuki alternator is located in some tight place and I will prefer, if possible,
test it in place to make sure that it is good or not. Thanks for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
hi. the battery stores a charge, mostly for starting the car later, the alternator creates the charge. its possible for the car to run on battery power but without the alternator to recharge the battery a car wont run for very long. every little electrical function will draw power from the battery and it wont have anything to recharge it, eventually the battery will die.
I just heard today that this problem, engine shut off, happens when car's air conditioning is turned on. Car had this problem twice in less than five minutes while AC was turned on and after AC was turned off the car still running without any problem. My first thought was if the problem can be related with ignition tumbler not handling enough amperage due the some bad electrical contact or the AC clutch in short or causing overload to the ignition tumbler. When the engine goes off the AC blower will continue running.
After this information the troubleshooting became a little more clear from where to start.
What do you think or what is your suggestion?
 

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Try the following: Idle Learn Procedure

Whenever the battery cables, the engine control module (ECM), or the ECM fuse is disconnected or replaced, the following idle learn procedure must be performed:

1. Turn the ignition ON for 5 seconds.
2. Turn the ignition OFF for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the ignition ON for 5 seconds.
4. Start the engine in park/neutral.
5. Allow the engine to run until the engine coolant is above 185° F (85°C ).
6. Turn the A/C ON for 10 seconds, if equipped.
7. Turn the A/C OFF for 10 seconds, if equipped.
8. If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transaxle, apply the parking brake. While pressing the brake pedal, place the transaxle in D (drive).
9. Turn the A/C ON for 10 seconds, if equipped.
10. Turn the A/C OFF for 10 seconds, if equipped.
11. Turn the ignition OFF. The idle learn procedure is complete.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Her car is manual.
What about the step 8?
Your explanation is just great.
I will do these steps in half hour and will let you know the results.
Thanks
 

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Hmm. Doesn't say anything about manual trans cars. I guess you'd just skip to step 11. ;)

I hope it works for you; it worked for mine. It would just die if I came to a stop with the A/C on.

ETA: Just thought of something. Instead of skipping to step 11, just run the high beams, hold down the brake pedal, make sure the A/C blower is on high, maybe wipers on high, anything that would cause a significant current draw. (Step 8 is there because when you shift an auto into gear it puts a load on the system and the RPMs drop.) The ECM needs to know how much load it needs to compensate for and will adjust the idle accordingly.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Problem resolved

About the engine shutting off, finally I had it resolved yesterday.
It was an electric problem in the engine compartment and honestly not difficult to be figured out. As she live in another city, since the problem started only yesterday I had the chance to work in her car and the repair came out very good and very cheap.
Here are the steps to get to the problem resolved:
I started the car and, as she told me by phone, turning the A/C on in idle the engine RPM dropped from 1,000 RPM to almost 400 RPM and not holding this RPM stead. I turned A/C on and off few times and the problem still the same. In the engine compartment I noticed a fusible link from + terminal on battery connected to a wire that I believe going to the alternator. This fusible link was very hot when I turned the engine off. I found this link not tightened properly to the + terminal in the battery. After cleaning and tighten the + terminal side of the link I started the engine and A/C again and it ran much better but not the way that was expecting. The fusible link was yet getting hot but much less. Inspecting again I found the other side of the link also not tightened as it should. I then resolved take everything apart and give that very nice clean up and re-install all back in place. Probably due the overheating, this link and other cables were all brownish from previous heating and bad contact. After a very good cleaning I re-install the electrical connections and started the engine and A/C and it ran perfectly.
My daughter drove the car with me all around the area, stooped in traffic lights, stop signs and induce similar situations were the car as was before was supposed to cause the engine to die. As the car ran without any issues I took a chance to buy a new fusible link and install in the car because the old one was looking bad due the previous heating and cooling situations.
Not only she as me also got happy to see the problem resolved with only one new fuse that cost: $ 3.19
I want to say thanks for all members of this forum for all ideas in how to find this problem.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
PROBLEM RESOLVED
About the engine shutting off, finally I had it resolved yesterday.
It was an electric problem in the engine compartment and honestly not difficult to be FOUND. As my daughter live in another city, since the problem started only yesterday I had the chance to work in her car and the repair came out very good and very cheap.
Here are the steps to get to the problem resolved:
I started the car and, as she told me by phone, turning the A/C on in idle, the engine RPM dropped from 1,000 RPM to almost 400 RPM and not holding this RPM stead. I turned A/C on and off few times and the problem still the same. In the engine compartment I noticed a fusible link from + terminal on battery connected to a wire that I believe going to the alternator. This fusible link was very hot when I turned the engine off. I found this link not tightened properly to the + terminal in the battery. After cleaning and tighten the + terminal side of the link I started the engine and A/C again and it ran much better but not the way that was expecting. The fusible link was yet getting hot but much less. Inspecting again I found the other side of the link also not tightened as it should. I then resolved take everything apart and give that very nice clean up and re-install all back in place. Probably due the overheating, this link and other cables were all brownish from previous heating and bad contact. After a very good cleaning I re-install the electrical connections and started the engine and A/C and it ran perfectly.
My daughter drove the car with me all around the area, stooped in traffic lights, stop signs and induce similar situations were the car as was before was supposed to cause the engine to die. As the car ran without any issues I took a chance to buy a new fusible link and install in the car because the old one was looking bad due the previous heating and cooling situations.
Not only she as me also got happy to see the problem resolved with only one new fuse that cost: $ 3.19
I want to say thanks for all members of this forum for all ideas in how to find this problem.
 
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