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I hear you, takes me day just to rotate my wheels..

Well done !
 
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Enjoyed it? You are crazy.....those t/c bolts drive me nuts, especially that damned shouldered one that fretts up and is a nightmare to get loose as you discovered
 

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Valve covers...clean them out well! ;)


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Full Torque Converter TSB w/torque values by Suzuki model...
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
Valve covers...clean them out well!
Max, I'm hoping I can find a local shop to hot tank then for me. I was familiar with the link you provided but did not think it applied to me since (a) my engine does not smoke and (b) it has had the oil and filter changed every 5,000 miles since it left the dealership. Now I'm not so sure. The intake manifold had oil inside which I'm assuming got in through the PCV valve. At a minimum I will replace the PCV and clean the valve covers.

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Spent the day degreasing the engine bay

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It looks better now.

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I had to build a push bar to get the car back in the garage after degreasing.

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I modified the existing trailer hitch with some scrap 2x4's. I had to buy the three bolts.

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I also set up a table for the parts that are about to come off the engine.
 

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You should be able to better assess the general baffle cleanliness when observing the inside cover and drain hole areas.
If in relatively good condition there, you should be OK. :)

But if really crapped up, only a baffle removal will get the job done. Not even hot tanking is a guarantee there.

 

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Id clean and drill them out while you're in there, now is the time to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
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The valve covers and the crank pulley are off.

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I want to replace these black half-round rubber inserts. Suzuki Depot says they have three in the warehouse.
 

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If they are still flexible remove, clean and use permatex grey when re installing valve covers
 

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When you're finished, feel free to stop by and help me with the Bazuki. :D
Looking good. I'm with 2013GV on those halfmoon seals. They do come with most of the better quality gasket kits though.
 

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I had to sleep on it, look twice myself and go back because I remembered seeing them somewhere! :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
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Even though my car starts and runs perfectly, I went poking around where I had no business being.

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For no reason I decided to remove the spark plugs. Four of the six unscrewed with minimal effort but two of them just got tighter as I cranked then out. They got so tight I could no longer turn them in either direction. I was in full panic mode. After twenty minutes with cheater pipe on the ratchet handle I was eventually able work the plugs back and forth until they finally came out.

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I could not find any evidence of thread damage.

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They only thing I did find was carbon build-up in the threads at the tip of the plug. After I cleaned the steel plug threads I doused them with brake cleaner and ran them back down into the aluminum spark plug hole once or twice. The black gunk that came out of the head was shocking. I'm assuming the whole problem was caused by carbon build-up because now all six plugs can be installed and removed just by me spinning the socket/extension with my fingers.

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The plugs look really good after 150,000 miles but I believe there is evidence of that PCV oil getting into the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
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I'm back on course after yesterday's spark plug detour. For anyone reading this in the future, there are twenty-five 10mm bolts holding the front cover in place.

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Don't try prying the cover off until you have removed all twenty-five.

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I realized I had put the engine-stand bolts through the lower crankcase :rolleyes:. That was easy to fix.

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But I also realized I can't turn the engine upside-down unless I remove one the catalytic converters :unsure:. That's not such an easy fix.
 

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Looks pretty clean inside! :)

The spark plugs are fine, as I see no evidence of fouling by PCV (or anything else for that matter) given their age.

Read up on oil pump chain check / tensioning, if you haven't already.

You realize that the first Cat and exhaust manifold are one integral unit to remove, right? ;)

Anti-seize the new spark plug threads! (and any joints exhaust related at a minimum)
 
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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
The spark plugs are fine, as I see no evidence of fouling
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I agree. The internet said the white deposit is atomized oil from the PCV system. They also said a little bit of oil in the intake is normal. I probably didn't need new plugs...

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... but if I had not pulled them I would not have this custom spark plug wrench guaranteed not to get stuck inside the spark plug tube.

Read up on oil pump chain check / tensioning
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I looked it up as soon as you mentioned it.

the first Cat and exhaust manifold are one
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The exhaust manifold/converter is off. The bolts were not the problem I was expecting.

Anti-seize the new spark plug threads!
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Big fan of the anti-seize. I have it in both flavors: aluminum and copper.

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I'm concerned the engine is top heavy on the stand.

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Leverage is not a problem but I worry the engine stand may want to tip over when I invert the engine. I'm thinking of adding outriggers for safety. Thoughts?
 

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Have never had one that rolled over... centre of gravity does not move out ...
 

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... but if I had not pulled them I would not have this custom spark plug wrench guaranteed not to get stuck inside the spark plug tube.
I solved that by switching to magnetic spark plug sockets - I believe from AutoZone. - they are also thin walled, which is a critical factor for my Mitsubishi.
 
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