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I've also seen folks use tie-down straps under the trans and around the frame rails as a sling / support for their tranny, FWIW.
 

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I see your problem


Brake booster and battery are on the wrong sides :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
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More progress. The intake manifold is out.

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These hose pliers -- all three sizes -- were invaluable.

Two humorous discoveries today. One, if you don't put the automatic transmission in neutral before you remove the battery you either have to open the access port in the console and operate the shift-lock solenoid manually or jumper 12 volts to pin 1 of shift-lock relay socket under the hood. NEITHER method will allow the shift lever to move if the key is in the OFF position. Two, after driving this car for 22 years I just today learned how to put the transfer case in neutral.
 

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About time you read the manual....... obviously you never needed N prior to this hehe

The 3rd gen are the sane, but worse, electric shifting on transfer case. Mine at least has a button for the shift lock release by the shift lever.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
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The cross-over pipe is out.

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The right-hand catalytic converter stiffener bracket came out in two pieces. If I can't source a new one (p/n 14271-67D02) I will try to weld this one back together.
 

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I hope that high pressure line off the pump wasn't cut, I can't see a fitting on the end of it, the one closest to the compressor tyre.
 

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The diff and rack could have stayed! And the pwr steering pump to HP line left intact, just pulled out of the way as a unit. ;)

You caused yourself a ton of extra work. And while on the subject...why did you remove the intake earlier?

Did you read the engine removal thread linked in post #4? :whistle:
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
I hope that high pressure line off the pump wasn't cut
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Rest assured no lines of any kind have been cut.

why did you remove the intake
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I'm going to replace the valve cover gaskets so the intake had to come off sometime. By taking it off now I have access to the bell housing bolts.

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And cracking those bell housing bolts loose was child's play compared to uncoupling the O2 sensor connectors. I could never have gotten those apart with the intake in place. That was a struggle.

Did you read the engine removal thread linked in post #4?
Every word. Twice. And thank you for posting it. There were a lot of short cuts suggested there but since I'm not a mechanic and this is my first time pulling this engine I decided to follow the FSM. It says remove the steering gear and the front diff so I did.
 

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Nothing wrong with getting stuff outta the way when necessary and/or convenient. Good job plugging away at this, you're kinda motivating me to get going on my Bazuki again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Good job plugging away at this
Your encouragement came on the day I needed it most.

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The oil pan(s) are off. And before you ask, here's why.

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Three of the four torque converter bolts popped loose with a breaker bar. This one would not budge.

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So before things went completely south I removed the oil pan(s) and spun the bolt to its lowest position.

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That bolt didn't even try to put up a fight.

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The three bolts that came out easily had a green coating.

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The stubborn bolt (left) is a gold color.

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On the upside the torque converter bolts are out and four bell housing bolts and two bell housing nuts are broke loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
In the course of sourcing new torque converter bolts I found this TSB.
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That stubborn bolt wasn't just a different color, it's a completely different part number. My FSM makes no mention of this.
 

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Wow...that's interesting. I had no idea, and I'll have to keep an eye out for that. Those little buggers are certainly a PITA! And...totally makes sense to remove the pan for access. I have yet to figure out how to get a torque wrench in there to install them, so far I've just been using the German torque spec.
 

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Wow...that's interesting. I had no idea, and I'll have to keep an eye out for that. Those little buggers are certainly a PITA! And...totally makes sense to remove the pan for access. I have yet to figure out how to get a torque wrench in there to install them, so far I've just been using the German torque spec.
Ring spanner and fish scale, and a calculator
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
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I wanted to resolve the broken catalytic converter stiffener bracket before I pulled the engine.

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Item 9 is what it looks like when it's not broken. The replacement the salvage yard sent me was the wrong part.

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I'm not a welder so repairing the old one was a last resort. When I bolted the broken pieces back in place I noticed they did not match up perfectly. I wondered if the bracket had snapped due to excess tension in the metal.

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Anyway, I tacked it once at the top.

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And once at the bottom (with the "Y" pipe reinstalled).

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There was a significant gap when the geometry was correct.

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I did not try to run a bead. I just stitched it back together with a line of penetrating spot welds.

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I hit it with some black spray paint and bolted it in for a test fit. The bolt hole alignment was perfect.
 

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To provide a stable weld, you should have V grooved both sides and stitch welded for max penetration and distortion, a second weld can then be layed over the stitches (seam weld)
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
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The engine is out. The homemade spreader bar worked perfectly.

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The extra links in the chain made it adjustable.

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The bolt is only used as a pin to hold the chain in place.

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The temporary transmission crossmember is also working perfectly.

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It took a miracle to attach the engine stand head plate.

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Because it was a miracle my local hardware store had four M12 x 1.25 x 120 mm bolts in stock.

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It took a week for me to pull the engine. But at my age four hours is a full day and sometimes I only work half-days. Nobody got hurt, nothing got broken and I enjoyed every day of the process.
 
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