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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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Do you know how much the V6 engine weighs? I have to pull mine to replace the lower crankcase O-ring. I have been unable to borrow or rent an engine stand. It looks like I will have to buy one. Harbor Freight sells two sizes. Can I get by with the 1/2 ton or do I need the 1 ton? They also sell a load leveler for the engine hoist. Is that worth having?
 

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Load leveller is sooooo handy, get it.

You could probably get by with the 1/2 ton, but I'd personally have the extra headroom and get the 1 tonner
 

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I own the 1/2 ton version, and it has no trouble lifting the V6 engine. HOWEVER: the lifting arm is too short to reach far enough into the engine bay. I had to do some custom modifications to make it work. If I had it to do over I'd get the larger one.
 

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An engine leveler is not required.

But lift HEIGHT ability is key as well! ;)
That may mean an extendable lift arm and leg supports of the higher tonnage lift to facilitate the pick.

This may help you out...

Use of a chain attached to the engine's OE lift eyes works great, and renders the perfect removal angle! ;)
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
the lifting arm is too short to reach far enough into the engine bay
Thanks, that's good to know. I already have the 2-ton Harbor Freight shop crane with the boom that extends from 41 in. to 61-3/4 in. What I don't have is an engine stand.
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I'm looking at this one since there are none available at Harbor Freight.

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Also, where would I connect a load leveler to the V6? The engine lifting brackets seem like they are in the wrong place for this.
 

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You had us thinking engine HOIST. :p

Engine weight is 350 lbs (ish).

And that Harbor Fright leveler? Appears cheaply made. :(
 

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Ah, yes I misread the original post. I thought you needed the crane/cherry picker.
I've pulled/replaced a couple J20a's and H25's and haven't had need of a leveler yet. Nice to have, sure. But not necessary. To use the HF one you showed, I would just get a couple lengths of chain and run from the shackle, down around the lifting points, then back up to the shackle. At least, that's what I did with my DIY lifting bracket (see Bazuki thread).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
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I could build something like you did. In the Bazuki thread there was some discussion about the strength of 1" square tubing. Should I go bigger?
 

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You've already read my thoughts on that subject in general, I believe. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
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I built my lift bar today. It seems well balanced.

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Assuming 1" square tubing was the minimum I opted for this 1" x 2" rectangular tubing.
It may be a little more than required but it didn't cost much more -- and I'll sleep better.
 

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Well done! :)

If not already the plan, do use washers under the head and nuts of chain hardware if bolting to the engine.
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Or are you planning on using the current engine lift eyes? That will be a tricky attachment point without hook style chain ends.


Did you weld closed the eye openings? Smart. ;)
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That will be a tricky attachment point without hook style chain ends.
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By good fortune the chain I had on hand fits through the slot on the engine's lift bracket. A bolt secures the chain to the bracket.

Did you weld closed the eye openings?
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Yes I did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Have you pulled it?
I wish.
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My mechanic friend says it's a three-hour job. I am not a mechanic. I expect it to be a three-day job.
The engine stand arrived yesterday. The shop crane is still in the box. My goal for today is assemble
both of them.
 

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Oh! I got excited when I saw your chain in lifting eye pic. Thought you were about to snatch her. :ROFLMAO: You'll get it. Enjoy the adventure.
 

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Remember, nut B onto bolt A, then at the end of it all you will have one critical bit left over.....

I love assembly of stuff like that. ....


At times....
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
then at the end of it all you will have one critical bit left over.....
Thankfully the hoist and the engine stand went together without any missing pieces or parts left over.
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A "dry fit" of the hoist and lift bar showed I have good reach, alignment and clearance. I also proved I have enough floor space to roll the hoist out from under the car. The next step is to see if I can break the bolts loose that hold the crossover pipe to the bottom of the catalytic converters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Bad news. I sprayed the three nuts on the bottom of the catalytic converter with PB Blaster and they are not budging. I'm afraid if I apply more torque I will round off the nuts or break off the studs. I am currently shopping for a magnetic induction bolt buster. Seeking advice from those of you who have pulled an H25. How did you remove these nuts?
 

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Bust them off and repair once its out? Easy to drill and re rap once the engines out and you can get to things
 
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