Suzuki Forums banner
1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Right of idle it is like the TPS has a dead spot in it.
It also has a backfire when i let off the gas on highway.

Where can i buy TPS cheep. I will be looking at belt this weekend.
I replaced the Coolant temp sensor, plugs, wire's,cap, rotor,fuel filter,pvc valve, valve cover gaskets,
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
25,561 Posts
How about testing the TPS first, rather than assuming that there is a deadspot?? You should put your car's specs into your signature - year, engine, tranny, etc., so we know what you're driving. And yes, it's a good idea to check your engine timing (compression test) and ignition timing to make sure that they are correct, before trying to diagnose elsewhere.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Idle air is ok.
Replaced plugs cap rotor.
Valve cover gasket was bad and killed two wires.
Replaced wires.
PVC Valve
Coolant sensor
oil air and fuel filters.

BG 44k made the biggest difference, took it from not running at all to idling.:)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
25,561 Posts
If fuel system cleaner made a difference, then you should probably put 'clean EGR and its passages' on your list, as well.
However, I would still suggest a compression test - if you do one, post your results - and checking your ignition timing, spark gap, etc. Sensors/electronics can't work properly off of bad mechanics.....Kind of like garbage in/garbage out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I did check EGR yesterday.
I have changed a lot of TPS over the years and that is what it feels like.

I will do some testing on it today.

Engine is strong, just need to fix dead spot right off idle.

If you push the peddle half inch threw it, it is like there is nothing wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Mine acted like that when I found the previous owner had the ignition timing way off. Idled great, ran great, but was just powerless on the low end. Acted like dead spots in the throttle. Wish I would have checked right away, since it was a totally free fix.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
When i pull the gas cap off it has a lot of noise to relieve pressure built up.
I think it has the wrong cap on it.

Also i order another computer because it went under water so i want to replace it. Car was in a flood across the street from me.

I did the adjustment to the TPS and now dead spot went away.
Sometime when hot it will run at a low idle and not start without giving pushing down on gas pedal a little.

I drove it back and forth to work all week, it is getting better as i keep fixing things.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
25,561 Posts
You should put your car's specs into your signature - year, engine, tranny, etc., so we know what you're driving.
Please!!
By the way pushing down slightly on the gas pedal is providing extra air at start up. But difficult to go further than this without knowing what you are driving....??
And the proper gas cap is important. Glad you fixed your dead spot.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry
It is a 1996 4x2 Tracker with AT and A/C

Can not get into the data stream with my code reader but a guy at parts store did the other day and came up with a P0118 code = coolant voltage high
I did put a new sensor in it.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
25,561 Posts
Normally this would mean that the wires to the coolant temp sensor are shorted - if, of course, your engine isn't actually overheating.
If this car is new to you, you should confirm the timing on it and do a compression test, as well as check the ignition timing. What is the condition of your spark plug tips when the car won't easily start? Black and wet??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Put new plugs wires cap rotor exc on it. All new filters and BG 44K worked the best.

Suction from the fuel cap is what has me concerned now.:confused:

It runs way to good to be a compression problem.:)

Coolant gauge works good now that i have a new sensor in it.
When cold runs real good and now today even hot seam to run ok. just when it gets real hot outside it will act up.

I need to find out why fuel tank is creating such a huge vacuum.:confused:

Computer is something i never seam to change over the years but since it was in water i will change it.;)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
25,561 Posts
Just for your info, the coolant sensor has absolutely nothing to do with the temperature gauge on your dash - they are completely unrelated. The coolant temp sensor sends its signal regarding engine temp to the ECU. The temp sender on the thermostat housing sends its signal just to the gauge and will never throw a code, etc.
The fuel system in this car is pressurized - unless you have the wrong gas cap, or some problem in the EVAP system, when you remove your gas cap, you are not hearing vacuum, but the release of pressure - blowing out, not sucking in. And that's normal.
By the way, it is often a good idea to test sensors, circuits, etc., rather than just replacing components. These cars are getting old, and wiring can be a problem - changing the component often may not fix the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
All true
Thank you
Being that the computer was under water i still think is a good idea to replace it.
I am glad the battery was dead when it was flooded.

I did replace the coolant sensor when i did a tune up and service because of the P0118 code, i figure for 15 bucks why not. But agree that i need to do some more testing. That is how i got the TPS adjusted yesterday.

Head lights are dim.

I do have some of my tools here now.
Top came today.
I am excited to get it running right.
Kinda hard downshift maybe from running in limp mode.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Now i have a Po102 and a trani code of P0740
I feel a light serging when i go down the road.
I am going to regroup once the computer come's in.
Idle's great now and starts up fine.
 

·
Registered
99 Tracker, 5 door, 2L, 4x4
Joined
·
11,270 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Are you sure.
Send me a link.
You can get into it and also flash the chip,
I would like to see what you have.
I need one now.:)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
25,561 Posts
This will explain to you what limphome and fail safe are:
Fail Safe and Limp Modes

You advise your car was, in some way, under water...and that you are changing your computer (although, as you are getting codes, and the car is running, it appears that the computer is in some way operable). Lighting dim, etc., would seem to indicate an electrical/voltage issue. It is difficult to ascertain what is going on without detail of exactly what was under water, etc.

P0102 is MAF circuit low
P0740 TCC circuit malfunction

All these codes and malfunctions can certainly be from the electronics and wiring/harness having water damage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Water came up over the wheel and tire.:eek::eek::eek::eek:
Over water pump on engine.
I could see water mark on timing cover about 8 inches down from the top.
Top of engine with all elect. did not get wet.
I do not know what all is at the lower level just under the dash.
I did see the computer and its plug.
Looks like two relays under glove box.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
What scanning software should i get.
I need something to get into live data stream.
I like the TOAD but you said it cost too much and there are others for 20 bucks. can i get a link to that.:)
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top