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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys I've got my motor out. I plan on replacing the rear main front crank/cam seal,distributor oring,timing belt and water pump.
I'm also thinking of doing valve seals and freeze plugs while its out. I've never heard the engine run. It's very clean w 102k miles. It's the one that I thought had the broken crank. It ended up being the center of the flywheel. Found out that it only had two bolts holding the motor/tranny together. Looks like the starter got in a bind and broke the tranny bell housing. So I'm going to just get the tranny repaired and put it back together and hope for the best. Advice appreciated.
 

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Hoses.... mostly the heater and other small water hoses under and around the intake.

You could do a leak down test before pulling the motor apart for the valve seals and stuff.

I also clean and paint.... but that is me! ;)
 

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Oil pan gasket would be so much easier with the engine out.

And if this engine uses that coolant manifold pipe sticking out from behind the water pump sealed by an o-ring, now would be a good time to replace that o-ring while you're doing those hoses.
 

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X2 on the O-ring and hoses. Check the exhaust manifold for cracks and clean injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Suzuki doesn't use a pan gasket, and the factory FIPG won't leak unless it's interfered with - in short, if you don't have any reason to disturb the oil pan, then don't.
The oil pan has been off I see silicone around it. I'm going to pull it and look at the main bearings. Would copper coat be better than silicone to use putting the pan back on?

Also what about freeze plugs? Replace?
 

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Good to know about the oil pan. I wondered because NAPA sells a gasket for mine, and mine has some leaks around it so I was thinking of doing that in the summer.
 

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The Suzuki sealant is extremely good but horribly expensive, whatever sealant you use needs to be sensor safe.
 

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Good to know about the oil pan. I wondered because NAPA sells a gasket for mine, and mine has some leaks around it so I was thinking of doing that in the summer.
I fitted a gasket to mine but it just squeezed out when the pan was tightened, the pan isn't designed to retain it like on other cars that I've had. I had to remove it and just go with silicon sealant. The other issue is that on an OBD2 model a gasket spaces the crank sensor away from the pulley and it won't work properly.
 

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I fitted a gasket to mine but it just squeezed out when the pan was tightened, the pan isn't designed to retain it like on other cars that I've had. I had to remove it and just go with silicon sealant. The other issue is that on an OBD2 model a gasket spaces the crank sensor away from the pulley and it won't work properly.
Thanks, I'll remember that so I don't end up doing the job twice! And though I didn't dig any deeper into it, the interchange for my gasket said it only went up to 1995 and so OBD2 would explain why.
 

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Since you plan to re-seal the oil pan, you may want to consider replacing the oil pump. Also check your clutch and pressure plate.
 

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I'm thinking about anything on the OP's auto trans end to be replaced while the engine is out. I know the basics of an auto trans but not an expert. Considering the damage done to the flexplate and trans mounting, it seems there would have been a lot of stresses on the torque converter that would not happen if everything remained bolted and centered. Are there seals or bushings where the torque converter goes into the trans that may have been damaged, and are easy to replace now?
 

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How does a leak down test test the valve seals?
It doesn't.

But it could detect other problems (valves/rings) that if bad, would make doing the valve seals alone kind of pointless.
 

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