Suzuki Forums banner

Engine died while driving and won't start again.

10K views 65 replies 7 participants last post by  Donewrken 
#1 ·
I'm new to this forum and new to the tracker. I have a 95 Geo tracker 1.6l 4cyl mfi 8th digit Vin (6).
I bought the tracker with 230k miles so I anticipated I may need a replacement motor. The engine ran fairly well but leaks oil and burns oil and smokes a bit. I changed the oil and drove it for 2 days without issues. I was coming home today after driving 50 plus hwy miles. Around a 100ft from my driveway I slowed for a speed bump. After going over the bump the motor died. I thought I killed it by engaging the clutch to quickly but learned the motor just died unprovoked. No warning lights except the normal ones if the key is on and engine not started (oil, battery lights). My brother said he believes the oil is leaking from the intake manifold gasket. That's about everything I know about it. Please help!
 
#2 ·
Welcome to the forum. Does the engine crank or when you turn the key to start, does it do nothing? If it cranks, I would try spraying starter fluid into the intake (use the big brake booster hose, which is easy to get to). Can you get the engine started that way? If so, it indicates that your problem is with fuel, rather than spark.
Other than that, I would check your fuses, particularly the ig-coil fuse, which, if it’s blown, will prevent the engine from starting. Also confirm that your check engine light is on with the key on - that indicates the computer is online.
I don‘t know the history of the car, but all the vehicles from 1989-1995 have had issues with 3 capacitors in the ECU, which need to be replaced. If any of these capacitors are blown, the engine will not start. It’s not a big deal - a $5 fix - and most of us have had to do this. The ECU is behind the driver side front speaker - a bit of an adventure getting it out (and worse getting it back in), but you pull the ECU, open it up, and look for the big black caps with the X on the top - the 16v has two of them. If you can get in touch with the previous owner, ask them if they ever changed out the capacitors in the ECU.
You can deal with the valve cover gasket oil leak issue later....lol
 
#18 ·
Welcome to the forum. Does the engine crank or when you turn the key to start, does it do nothing? If it cranks, I would try spraying starter fluid into the intake (use the big brake booster hose, which is easy to get to). Can you get the engine started that way? If so, it indicates that your problem is with fuel, rather than spark.
Other than that, I would check your fuses, particularly the ig-coil fuse, which, if it’s blown, will prevent the engine from starting. Also confirm that your check engine light is on with the key on - that indicates the computer is online.
I don‘t know the history of the car, but all the vehicles from 1989-1995 have had issues with 3 capacitors in the ECU, which need to be replaced. If any of these capacitors are blown, the engine will not start. It’s not a big deal - a $5 fix - and most of us have had to do this. The ECU is behind the driver side front speaker - a bit of an adventure getting it out (and worse getting it back in), but you pull the ECU, open it up, and look for the big black caps with the X on the top - the 16v has two of them. If you can get in touch with the previous owner, ask them if they ever changed out the capacitors in the ECU.
You can deal with the valve cover gasket oil leak issue later....lol
 
#4 ·
First off, thank you so much for the swift replies and valuable knowledge!
I will test those things asap.
When I get in the vehicle key in and ON it dings as it should. The oil, brake, battery and seat belt lights come on. No check engine light came on with key in ON position. When I turn key to start the motor it turns over and over and over as if I am out of gas but I have a full tank. When I stop cranking the motor the 4 aforementioned lights remain ON while key is in ON position.
 
#5 ·
Update: I tried cycling the key a couple times and I can hear the fasten seat belt alert but I can also hear another sound when turning the key ON position. It sounds like something turning on or engaging, almost like a soft click. It makes the same soft click when turning the key in OFF position. Is this the fuel pump making the soft click? I will test the starting fluid in the intake and the other things and repost an update ASAP. Thank you again
 
#6 ·
Update: I checked the fuses and my FI 15amp fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and when I turned the key ON it immediately blew the FI fuse again. Any ideas on what could suddenly make the FI fuse blow while driving over a speed bump? That's what I was doing right before it died. I'm assuming this is my issue.
 
#10 ·
A short circuit in the wiring would be my guess - wire rubbing/chafing somewhere finally rubbed through the insulation, maybe a wire pinched somewhere - I believe the MPI models are known for problems with the injector harness chafing, Bex is probably the best person to confirm.
 
#9 · (Edited)
On my '91, and probably yours, that is the fuse for the fuel injection system. That would explain everything, except how you can fix it. You might just be lucky.

I'm sure suggestions will follow shortly. Do you have access to any electronic testing equipment, like a voltmeter?

BTW, Is that a Suzuki bike in your picture? I have TWO Suzuki GS-550 bikes -- a 1977 & a 1978.
 
#12 ·
The FI fuse runs the main relay, which will be the black relay that’s mounted on the ECU (and next to a green relay that looks exactly like it, which is the fuel pump relay). You can easily test if it’s the relay itself that’s causing the problem by putting the green relay in its place, and turning the key to the on position. I would expect that the fuse will still blow (as I would assume that this is a wiring problem), but on the off chance that the fuse doesn’t blow, it would confirm that the relay itself is the problem. Note, of course, that the engine still will not start, without the fuel pump relay.
The FI circuit runs throughout the car, via the blue wire with the black tracer.
Post #2 will help you here. It identifies the components, and also recommends using a 12v test light, which will save you a box of fuses.
 
#14 ·
Look at your fuse cover. The fuse next to your FI fuse, which you are stating is for the ‘main relay’ - is actually the 20 amp fuse for your RWAL.
 
#15 ·
I am looking at my fuse box cover and at the FSM. The #14 fuse is marked "15A FI" -- for fuel injection.
Next to it is the #13 fuse marked "20A RWAL" -- for main relay.
Pete says in message #6 that he blew the 15A FI fuse, not the 20A RWAL fuse.
 
#17 ·
In my FSM it says "13 RWAL MAIN RELAY" which is a 20A fuse.

98212


Pete is referring to the #14 fuse -- 15A FI.

They both say "MAIN RELAY" in the FSM so that is probably the confusion here, but Pete said the 15A FI fuse blew. The FUSE BOX cover does not say MAIN RELAY for either.
 
#19 ·
Geesh. Yeah its for the REAR WHEEL ANTI LOCK BRAKE computer. It has NOTHING to do with the main relay that runs the main ECU
 
#22 ·
I apologize for leaving you guys hanging. I couldn't get a chance today to mess with hunting down the pinched wire. I did get to the store and purchase the test light. I'm going to tear into it tomorrow (Sunday). Hopefully I can locate the gremlin. I will update as I progress. Thanks a million!
 
#24 ·
that will tell you if there's voltage, but the best one to use is a plain incandescent light style as they load the circuit.
You could find that one shows voltage on a wire but there could still be a fault there.

One like this one is what I use for basic testing. Looks good in a dark corner, contains a 3W festoon lamp
 

Attachments

#26 · (Edited)
store bought, theres several types, led based ones like yours that do continuity as well, and incandescent and even fancy ones that do auto polarity and give a voltage readout.
All have their uses, but if chasing circuits that have possible bad connections then the incandescent ones are better as they will load the circuit.
This is my one but I added the longer bungy lead


Watch this you tube clip from about 4 minutes in to see what I mean in a real world example of a bad ground connection and how it fooled another shop

 
#29 ·
Dump the Haynes Manual. It is filled with misinformation, and attempts to give info of many models in just one volume. Please put your car’s specs in your signature, so we don’t have to scroll around to find out what you’re driving, by the way.
There are wiring diagrams here, on Acks FAQS, which will be more accurate for you than the Haynes:
The FI circuit basically runs off the blue/black wire throughout the car.
 
#30 ·
Pete,
I wouldn't trash your Haynes manual. I'd look for the Factory Service Manual (Geo or Suzuki) to add, instead. I use both the FSM and Haynes -- AND a Chilton manual, to boot. (I also have the Geo supplement and addendum for 1991) Why do I have THREE service manuals? Because they all have different pictures, and some are better than others. They also describe the same procedures in slightly different ways using slightly different words in more detail, and oftentimes give helpful tips and suggestions to non-mechanics. For example, the Factory Service Manual will say "Use Special Tool #432-AB67 to remove the widget", while the others will offer a work-around. The Haynes has a very nice Trouble-shooting/diagnosis section, and the Chilton has tons of information explaining how various vehicle systems and tools work. I could go on, but you get the idea. Leave the book burning to the Nazis.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Ah, maybe that’s why you thought that the RWAL fuse was for the main relay. (Edit: I’ll add an ’LOL’ here so no offense taken). In any event, I stand by my opinion - you are welcome to have yours - any book that attempts to cover a number of years and a number of models, in one volume, can be full of discrepancies, and both the Haynes and Chilton have them. Search the forum for other’s opinions on these volumes. I’m not in the minority. And I don’t suggest that you burn it - just give it away (or throw it away).
 
  • Like
Reactions: Pete's tracker
#34 ·
Dump the Haynes Manual. It is filled with misinformation, and attempts to give info of many models in just one volume. Please put your car’s specs in your signature, so we don’t have to scroll around to find out what you’re driving, by the way.
There are wiring diagrams here, on Acks FAQS, which will be more accurate for you than the Haynes:
The FI circuit basically runs off the blue/black wire throughout the car.
Bex, I attempted to put my vehicle specs in my signature however, I don't know how and when I tried I didn't find an option via my profile. Please pardon my ignorance?
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top