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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so in the midst of a monsoon last night went out to move the tracker since I had the windows out of the top and nothing no click no crank. Thus far this morning after some testing I have found that I have 12.53 battery voltage, good connection to the body and engine grounds, and 12.53v going to the main relay. However I have 9.43~9.62v going to the ignition, all fuses, and all relays. Anyone know for sure what the Ohm rating on the main relay is supposed to be? Could my ECU finally have taken a dump? (it is the 95 original) I'm kinda at a loss atm and it's pouring rain again so I cant test anything further at the moment. Thanks in advance ;)
 

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Ok so in the midst of a monsoon last night went out to move the tracker since I had the windows out of the top and nothing no click no crank. Thus far this morning after some testing I have found that I have 12.53 battery voltage, good connection to the body and engine grounds, and 12.53v going to the main relay. However I have 9.43~9.62v going to the ignition, all fuses, and all relays. Anyone know for sure what the Ohm rating on the main relay is supposed to be? Could my ECU finally have taken a dump? (it is the 95 original) I'm kinda at a loss atm and it's pouring rain again so I cant test anything further at the moment. Thanks in advance ;)
Sounds like the battery is dead, have you tried jumping it?
 

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A bit confused. If you have 12.5v going to the main relay, how is it possible to have only 9.5v or so going to the fuses? The main relay works off of a fuse. Is your check engine light on with the key on? Can you get any codes from it? Did you try jumping the starter solenoid to see if it will spin?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
So am I Bex so am I it makes absolutely no flippin sense. No I haven't tried jumping the starter yet nor jumping the truck, was fixing to but it started pouring again will try if i get a break in the rain


*edit* the 12.5v to the main is on the Hot at all time side, the ignition on side is only 9.5v, and yeah still getting my same old code 14 which I know I need to fix just being lazy and not wanting to pay for the new sensor, will change it out when I put the new timing belt on next month
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok well the plot thickens...... maybe she was just pissed off at me for letting her get rained in? went out to jump the starter (got a break in the rain right as i finished my last post) thought meh why not and tried it before hooking anything to it and she fired right up still showing only code 14. shut her off and she fired right back up 3 times now its pouring again so back inside for a while.
 

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ok well the plot thickens...... maybe she was just pissed off at me for letting her get rained in? went out to jump the starter (got a break in the rain right as i finished my last post) thought meh why not and tried it before hooking anything to it and she fired right up still showing only code 14. shut her off and she fired right back up 3 times now its pouring again so back inside for a while.
Sounds more like you have either got corrosion or a loose connection going on there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
so today (the rain has stopped) went out to see what she would do and with the key in the on position it sounds like the relay's are clicking faster than a hampster on crack with a megaphone and no check engine light when key is on had to work so couldnt do any testing recommendations on where to start when i have time this week?
 

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No check engine light and the relays clicking points to the ECU. The relays are clicking as the ECU is rebooting again and again. Presumably your other dash lights (battery, oil, etc) are working, so that this is not the ignition coil fuse, correct?? And you have proper battery voltage??
Clicking relays mean the ecu is rebooting over and over due to bad ecu (capacitors - have you ever changed them??) , bad power to ecu (battery voltage, etc.) overloaded ecu (shorted pump or FPR, shorted ISC coil, shorted VSV , shorted 02 sensor on some years - you can check by removing the connector to each of these, one at a time, to see if it makes a difference).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
had no dash lights at all will try to mess with it on my lunch break today a little bit, have never changed the caps was also on my list of things to do but didnt want to get into it till I had a spare to keep it rolling (guess I should've went ahead and done it). still have good battery voltage will take a close look at some of the wiring today for sure
 

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If you have no dash lights at all, your problem is possibly with the black/white wire running from the ignition coil fuse. It's a lovely circuit - fuel pump relay, alternator, ignition coil, instrument panel gauges, instrument panel indicator lights, main relay, noise suppressor condensor, o2 heater, warning alarm controller, daytime running lights if you have them and the stoplamp switch in the auto tranny.
Are you sure about the low voltage that you recorded?? The low voltage will cause the clicking relays, etc., as well as a no start situation. And ground wires, from what I understand, can also contribute to a voltage drop. But there is always the possibility of two separate problems, I imagine. Presumably, when the car does start, you do have dash lights, correct? And proper voltage?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
do you have a copy of that wiring diagram? the one's I have are quite broken as far as that wire is concerned. Will recheck the voltage tomorrow just to make sure its still the same but I know saturday it was 12.5 at the bat and 9.5ish in the car. And yes when it ran monday morning to work all the lights worked right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks a ton bex that's way better than what i've got atm
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
just curious since come to find out there's one in a local junkyard..... was there a 1.6 16v in 91? if so will the ecu work in my 95 or did they change enough that it won't just curious cause it's only $15 so if it'd work I'll pick it up to have a spare even if my issue isn't the ecu
 

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I think there may have been a 4 door Suzuki with 16v in 1991, but certainly no Tracker in 91 would have been 16v. Only 8v.
Remember, the ECU does not 'control' the dash lights - so if your dash lights don't work when the car doesn't start, it is most probably a wiring issue, rather than an ECU one.
 

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I think there may have been a 4 door Suzuki with 16v in 1991, but certainly no Tracker in 91 would have been 16v. ...
From all I have read, the 16v, along with the 4 speed automatic, didn't come out until 1992. That said, I have seen and heard of them titled as 1991's.... late models(?) or engine (and computer + harness) swaps (?) Bad listings or typo's? I haven't a clue.

Engine swaps could have been done to a Tracker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
well now that it's finally home...... I have 14 ohms of resistance between that blk/wht wire and ground..... still have 12v at the battery, key on lights on, fuel pump relay clicking frantically, and still 9.change volts in the black and white wire key on. had a bad day so that's about all the investigation i did tonight will check further into it tomorrow...... should I have continuity in the blk/white wire to ground at all times? is that the resistance of connections though some bulbs and the fuel pump ect..
 

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IF you are checking for a short you need to check between each wire and ground (the chassis) [with the power OFF] for a low ohms reading (short) .

There is no telling what the reading will be between the black & white wires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
the 14 ohms is from the blk/wht to ground just wasn't sure if that wire should have continuity to ground at all times or not
 

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So this can get confusing trying to troubleshoot wires w/o seeing them. How are you at reading a schematic?

How are you at reading and using an ohm-meter?
What scale was the meter on when you read 14 ohms?
 
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