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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
93 kick , 1.6 , 16v , 5speed Thorley header

Not knowing what the P.O. has done or not done , i put a wire into the vacuum nipples looking for the "P" (short end) per the diagram in the FSM (it can also be seen at FIXKICK EFI-sensor-theory, under EGR) .
The wire goes all the way through the modulator, no restriction. Should there be a restriction in or is my modulator junk?
The diagram is not real clear.
Thanks again
Lon
 

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93 kick , 1.6 , 16v , 5speed Thorley header

Not knowing what the P.O. has done or not done , i put a wire into the vacuum nipples looking for the "P" (short end) per the diagram in the FSM (it can also be seen at FIXKICK EFI-sensor-theory, under EGR) .
The wire goes all the way through the modulator, no restriction. Should there be a restriction in or is my modulator junk?
The diagram is not real clear.
Thanks again
Lon
Don't do that, lol. Pm me your email address and I'll send you a FSM test for the modulator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ranger88den
Thanks for the reply.
I have the FSM. The guy at FIXKICK says if you switch the "P" & "Q" you will be sorry. SOOOOO .....if there is just a hole straight through , why would it make a difference if the "P" & "Q" were interchanged? Hence my question,"is my modulator still good"?!
Thanks
Lon
 

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Yes, light shines through. If it passes the FSM tests it should be good.
 

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The fixkick website is full of errors, stick to the FSM tests and you can't go wrong.
 

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The P side of the cap goes toward the throttle body and the Q side goes toward the EGR valve. There is a filter that sits in the modulator, in between the nipples at P and Q, and that filter can be cleaned.

The question is, why do you think that this is either not working (normally very little is done, or needs to be done to the modulator). If you feel that the EGR is not performing properly, it might be a better idea to check the EGR VSV to see if it is providing the vacuum that is needed for this circuit to work properly. Normally, it is just the EGR valve itself that needs to be cleaned out, the diaphragm checked so that it springs back strongly on the spindle when you release it - and the ports that are exposed with the valve off the car cleaned - in order for this circuit to work well. And actually, on your car, it will work properly even without this. All the EGR does is send exhaust gas back into the engine - for emissions and also keeping the valves slightly cooler. Cars were around for almost 100 years before they ever thought of this. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Bex
Thanks for the reply
My question is , if there is no restriction in either "P" or "Q" nipple , why would it matter which why the modulator was hooked up. my modulator has no restriction on either nipple. The FSM shows a restriction on the "P" end. As for the EGR it closes , but does not "SNAP" closed , and the seat does leak a little , the diaphragm holds steady.
 

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The fixkick website is full of errors.
Sir, you've made an allegation regarding someone who (whom) no longer posts here. I respect your knowledge, but if you would, please lists all the errors, for us. Thanks.
 

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I wonder why he got banned so many times...seems like he was always getting booted, until he finally got fed up and left.
 

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Bex
Thanks for the reply
My question is , if there is no restriction in either "P" or "Q" nipple , why would it matter which why the modulator was hooked up. my modulator has no restriction on either nipple. The FSM shows a restriction on the "P" end. As for the EGR it closes , but does not "SNAP" closed , and the seat does leak a little , the diaphragm holds steady.
The diaphragm on the EGR valve must go to its rearward position strongly - it should do so if the spindle is totally clean.
The FSM makes it VERY CLEAR that you cannot switch around P and Q. The Q side actually has a little hump on it, to help you determine this. There is a valve inside the modulator that is apparently directional to P and Q.
 

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Sir, you've made an allegation regarding someone who (whom) no longer posts here. I respect your knowledge, but if you would, please lists all the errors, for us. Thanks.
Top of my head...

There are 7 motor mount bolts, NOT six. :lol:

If you look at my engine removal directions VS his, a few more errors are highlighted.

It's a very good resource, but there are errors here and there.
 

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It would take weeks to list all the errors and it isn't on-topic, lets not pollute the thread.
 

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Like most information you find anywhere on the net (including this) should be double (or triple) checked for accuracy. A lot of it is not worth what you pay for it. (Normally nothing.)

About Kick-fix's site, I mostly find it hard to find the information I need, then it might not be for the exact year and model that I have. (Not quite as bad as an after-market service manual, but along those lines.) That said, I still refer to the site, but compare it to other sources... like the stack of FSM's I have collected. ;)
 

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We're way off track as Rhinoman pointed out, but, I have one final comment, if you know/think/believe the kick-fix site is in error, why don't you contact him regarding the issue, he may be receptive, or is that too much effort. You can email him on the bottom of his title page. Sometimes it's just easier to complain .....................
 
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