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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The other day, I pronounced my EGR system working again after finding and replacing a hose with a hole in it, leading from a VSV to the EGR diaphragm. I took it for a drive and there was no code thrown, so I figured it was working correctly.

Since all of the vacuum hoses were the factory originals and some were loose or split on the ends, I decided to change all of the small size hoses. I changed them one at a time by removing a hose, then cutting and installing a new one in its place. When I got through, I used a vacuum hose routing diagram to double check all of the hose connections and found no errors.

I started the engine and it ran up to its normal 1500 RPM cold idle, but after a few seconds, the RPM's dropped and it barely idled. After checking everything again, I discovered that the EGR bypass VSV had vacuum on the port connected to the EGR diaphragm and was slowly opening the EGR valve until the engine wouldn't idle anymore. I checked the VSV coil resistance and it appeared to be okay, but found that when I connected a vacuum gauge, it slowly crept up to 19-20" of vacuum at the port.

So I ordered a new EGR bypass VSV from Rock Auto and just to play it safe, I also ordered the other EGR VSV, since both the regular VSV and the bypass VSV have to work for the system to function correctly. I installed them yesterday and took it for a twenty mile drive today and it runs great with no check engine light. Finally, I think I've resolved it.

Here's a tip if you want to purchase EGR parts from Rock Auto. Search both Geo and Suzuki Emission sections and click on every link with EGR in it because you'll find solenoids mixed in with EGR valves. I bought a closeout VSV with a 30 day warranty for under $50 that surprisingly, came in a Suzuki parts box and exactly matched the VSV I removed. The other VSV, in an Intermotor box, was an OEM Denso part. Shipping was cheap and each item arrived in a few days.
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