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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,

My daughter’s 2007 Suzuki SX4 FWD base model has a central lock problem come and go repeatedly for years. (Been posted about that on “Central Lock Malfunction” long time ago 2012?).

The problem/Symptoms:
1 Keyless remote can’t unlock all the door (Only Driver front and hatch door).
2 And remote can not lock all the door. (Only hatch door response but need a push on hatch door to get it tightly closed.).------- Check and tune the striker for hatch latch, no improvement.
3 Using key on driver door almost the same as #1 & #2, but can also lock the driver front door.
4 While driving, the rear hatch door lock make a “humming sound” first, then will keep making “kicking “ noise all the way of driving (even when stop and idling)-----it was the hatch lock actuator making lock/unlock sound all the time. Pulling the hand brake (E-brake) will stop the sound. But releasing the hand brake will get the sound back.
(Had changed a used hatch door actuator with no change, same problems.)

Recent trial and tests:
Recently, since retired and have more time to study the manual and wiring diagram, try to fix that again.
Follow the manual steps by steps:
1 Check battery and all fuse--------all normal.
2 Check all door locks connectors pins for continuity ------ as manual stated. As well as the lock switches.
3 Applying power (+ - to each pins in turns ) ------ will function to lock and unlock accordingly.
4 Apply key to lock cylinder to lock and unlock ------match the continuity as the manual stated.
All the door locks & switches seem functioning properly.

Checking the BCM and wiring:
Get to a point that I found the BCM under the steering wheel ( I assume the #36770-80J60 is the BCM)----- saw a burnt out wire (The black with silver mark, the 1st one with “yellow circle”) that also brown the corresponding connecting pin of the BCM. (Please refer to the photos.)

Q1 ***Can anyone please tell me what this wire for(The burnt 1st black with silver mark wire----the one circulated with yellow circle.)? Is it the ground wire ( I think this may be the ground wire but not sure) ?
If this is for the ground, then what make it burnt out? Poor contact in the other end or other places? Where should I look into? Thanks.

https://imgur.com/Zbu2CkW
https://imgur.com/ecFywIP
https://imgur.com/wjkya5r



Q2 If I was going to buy a new (used) BCM, what is the different between the model #36770-80J60 (the one in my SX4) (for 07/08 model?) VS #36770-80J61 (for 08 / 09 model?) module?
And what are the 36770-80J20 & 36770-80J21 & 36770-54L62 models for?
Are these modules the same BCM & interchangeable? Or some is not BCM or some is specifically for AWD and /or 4 doors sedan? Thanks.

I cleaned up the connecting pins of the BCM and use an add on new wire & plug to re-attach the black/ w silver mark wire back to the connector. Yet, the problem persists.


No DRL now:
The only good is: I lost the DRL function------No daytime running light on (Yet both low beam and high beam work, so not a bulb problem.) while driving now though the DRL icon is on at the panel (Not sure when it goes out, but sure have it before, and don’t know if that related to the wiring of the BCM this time), and the kicking sound at the rear hatch door persists. But, the good is after I switch on my headlight during driving, the kicking sound will vanish (Not happening in the past as the kicking sound will keep on sounding no matter day or night driving. And apply the hand brake while driving will also stop the kicking sound like before).

I checked behind the passenger front glove compartment, there is NO DRL controller/ module. (I think my SX4 did not have it.) I found the keyless entry receiver / antenna at the right bottom side of the glove compartment. Test it’s pins for ground / continuity according to the manual-----seems work OK.

I check the 2 + 3 relays at the engine hood (2 relays in front of the main fuse box (#1 & #2), and 3 relays (#3/#4/#5) in front of the battery.). Yet the continuity of the relays without power (ie: OFF ----- No continuity for the middle and side connecting pins #86/#87.) ; and if apply battery to #30+/#85- (ie: On ----- There is continuity for pins #86/#87. ) ----- Work as the manual refers.


Q3 *** What are these 2 relays for, and what the other 3 relays for? Thanks.

https://imgur.com/rdJk8sP
https://imgur.com/GMO2ihf



Now, I am stuck with the situation that must get the headlights on while driving the car (since no DRL on), don’t know how to read / understand the wiring diagram and where to tackle the problem to get the DRL back on. (My SX4 model does not have the DRL controller/module.)


Have been working for the whole weekend till tonight, still there is no progress.

Any suggestion is deeply appreciated.


Hope to get the car normal again for my daughter soon. Thanks a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Hi, Its raining and snow most weekends and could not get to more inspection of the car.
Since we can not drive the car without the DRL and sometimes forget to switch on the headlights for driving, therefore I hooked up a pair of fog lights and get power from the "heated Seat" "Spare" fuse of which option that my car do not have. THe fog lights will stay on as DRL after the the car started, or the key at the "on" position.
Temporary solved the without DRL problem.

But the Central lock malfunction still there.
Find a similar case at the forum too.
From DCMCC28429 : "http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-sx4-forum/173666-crossover-electric-mayhem.html"
The description of the burnt out black ground wire is exactly the same as my BCM case.

Any suggestion? Thanks.
 

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Not sure what to make of the burnt black (Ground) wire. It could be a poor connection to the BCM causing it to over heat or I could be a component in the bcm/case not making a good contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi Darrell,

Thanks for the reply and information.

I did check the 5 relays of the head lights and tail lights. All the relays respond normal accordingly.

I had tried to track the black wire to see if it goes to the junction box. But was hesitate to pull the junction box out to inspect since too many wires plug in there.

Now planning to find a used BCM + including the plug in wiring. (that's why I ask about Q2 of the different models of BCM if interchangeable). to see if that will fix the problem.

Thanks again.
 

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Same problem

Hi SuzukiSX4-123,

Thank you for the detailed description of your problem and the photos. Within just the past few weeks my 2011 Suzuki SX4 Crossover developed exactly the same set of problems. (My car is 7-1/2 years old and has only about 42,000 miles.) I first replaced the rear hatch power lock assembly with a brand new, identical Suzuki part ($155!), but this didn't solve the problem. I haven't yet looked inside the BCM to see if the ground wire connection is fried like yours was, but will do so soon. Since my symptoms are exactly the same as those described by you and DCMCC28429 (who apparently never received a response from anyone), I assume mine also is a BCM issue.

For the time being, I've been driving around with the rear hatch trim panel removed, and with the rear hatch power lock assembly disconnected from the electrical system. I did this because I got tired of hearing the constant humming and kicking noises from the rear hatch when I was driving the car, and I also was concerned that the rear power lock actuator might either burn out or run down the battery (since the actuator seemed to be cycling continuously). Right now I can lock all the doors manually, but I have to use my driver's side door key to get into the car, and then have to lock or unlock all of the other doors individually. The only way to get the rear hatch open is by using the tiny emergency release lever inside the car (since the button on the outside of the hatch is tied into the powerlocking system, which I've now disabled). The DRLs are not working, and the dome light doesn't work in "door open" mode when the car is turned off.

I was wondering if you were able to resolve your problems by replacing the BCM? I have some mechanical ability, but don't have your level of electrical knowledge, so I presume I'd now have to bring this to a repair shop. I'm concerned that it will be quite an expensive repair, and then I'll have to worry that the new BCM would fail just like the old one did. At least three of us now have posted about this same set of symptoms, and I assume we're just the tip of the iceberg.

I'd appreciate any further information you can provide.

Thanks,
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi Ron,
Sorry to hear that your car has the same problem.
I don't have an answer for you, sorry.

Since I check that a new BCM is too expansive for my over 10 years with
400,000 km SX4. Getting a used one is tricky since some BCM look alike but with different S/N or model number. Besides, I might have difficult to find the connector / plug for the wiring to the BCM since that was also burnt out.

I used the same method similar as you in the past:

1) I had tried to cheat the system by making the hand brake light switch lower so that when I lower the hand brake, the hand brake light icon at the odometer panel will still stay on------that will avoid the DRL icon showing up and thus diminished the "kicking sound at the back.------But this last just for a few months and the kicking sound come back again.

2) I also tried to take off the connector for the power to the rear hatch (similar to your disconnecting it,). Yet, I found all these too trouble to plug it on again, thus I wished to find a final solution. So I tried to search all the wiring and connectors for continuity, thus found the fry out connector at the BCM.

Since the New BCM is too expensive and no way to guarantee if that will cure the problem (If that was as other thread had mention is due to a short of wiring.), the new BCM might fry again sooner or later.

Finally, I just get a cheapest solution:
1) I disable the central lock system.
2) I use a switch to connect to the rear hatch so I can switch it on if needed.
3) I disabled the DRL system.
4) I connected my spot lights by getting power from the fuse panel where it will power up whenever the ignition on.-----So the spot lights will serve as the DRL while driving automatically after I turned on the ignition.

I am sorry that I do not have the answer that you want.
If the others can point out to you where the short wiring is (they said near the suspension tower behind the battery, I checked. cannot find the short wiring there in my car. Even I added a foam pad to that area to insulate the whole rope of wiring away from the metal of the fender/tower, yet no improvement).

Since I can't find the "short" wiring to solve the root of the problem, I don't think it is wise to spend ~ $700 for the BCM. So I choose a most affordable way. At least I had tried to fix it.
I can bear to key open the car manually (just like in the 80s year that car without central lock system.) Now I drive the car happily without the annoying / disturbing sound anymore.

Wish you luck
 

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Hi SuzukiSX4-123,

Thanks for your helpful response. First of all, congratulations on achieving so many miles/kms on your car! It seems that this is a very durable model car, although unfortunately it has at least this one weakness in the electrical system.

I think you found an excellent solution -- installing a switch to toggle on/off the power to the rear hatch lock. When you have a chance (this is not urgent), could you please let me know what kind of switch you used and where you installed it? Where I live (NJ), DRLs are not required, so I've just been driving around with no DRLs and no power to the rear hatch lock. I don't mind manually locking all four passenger doors, but every time I want to open the rear hatch, I'm opening one of the rear passenger doors, folding down the seat, and using a 3-foot long, thin, flat metal bar to pop open the little emergency lever inside the hatch. Sometimes I have to fumble around for a few moments before I can engage the lever properly, so this isn't the most convenient solution! So if I can install the switch for power to the rear hatch lock when needed, I'll be completely satisfied.

Like you (but even with my much lower-mileage car), I'm not willing to pay a very large amount of money for an electrical repair that (i) may be only temporary (until the same part shorts out again), and (ii) is not required to safely drive the car (but merely provides the convenience of power locks and keyless entry). Like you, I drove cars for many years without these features. (But since my car has only one manual key cylinder -- on the driver's door -- I certainly hope this manual lock holds up!)

The frustrating thing is that I contacted Suzuki's national US Customer Service about this issue, and they claimed never to have heard about it previously.

Thanks again for all your help!

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Hi Ron,

Yes, that's what I thought. I believe in the forum many other guys had point to a short wiring around the suspension tower just behind / around the battery. Though I try to search that in my car but in vain. I had asked in the forum to pin point the exact location or for photos but no luck.

About the switch:

1) Just buy any on/off switch (for 12 volt) in auto parts store.

2) You can get power from the battery / fuse box-------Just make sure you always get the power on (without turning the key since you may wish to open the trunk without running the car.)--------I got mine from the battery directly. Infact the power wire was previously used for my spot light. I just switched to used that since I hot wire the spot light to the fuse panel so the spot lights will automatically on as a DRL whenever I turn on my car.

3) Get a fuse for that line also to protect the hatch opener. (I had thought of using a relay there for the hatch opener too but too trouble. Since I just switch it on for a short while, so I did not add a relay. You can add that if you like.)

4) Then just find a convenience location for the switch. I place the switch at the front panel (I used the spot light socket hole). So I just open the driver door and can access the switch to turn it on without getting into the car.

Hope this can help. Good luck.

PS: you can get ground for the switch in bare metal near the front panel (or near fuse panel) as well as any metal in the hatch door for the hatch opener (I hooked the ground of the hatch opener to the "Ground bolt" of the car near/at the right rear bottom of the glass. That ground bolt is for the rear defrost if I recall correctly)
The positive wire run from the battery to the add on stand alone/in line fuse, then connected to the switch. Then from the switch, the positive wire runs all the way from the front panel (I use the roof side trimmings to hide the wire) to the back/hatch door opener. Cheer.
 

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Hi Hi SuzukiSX4-123,

Thanks for this helpful information. You've given me some good ideas -- which I may try to modify somewhat. I may wait until the weather warms up in a few months, before attempting this repair. I'll post again, at that time, to let you know what I did -- and whether it worked!

Thanks again,
Ron
 

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More opinions welcome, but that burnt connection shows all the signs of a poor connection not being able to handle the current and overheating. From searching the diagrams the taiwan BCM connector G06 pin 1 is ground/earth. Personally I would open the unit and see what damage has been done inside. You may find a new ground/earth wire could be run direct from the circuit board straight out the casing to the nearest body ground/earth.

 

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Was the SX4 ever made in Taiwan (quick search appears no), I just wondered why the workshop manual has mostly two different wiring diagrams one of them being referred to as Taiwan. The original post is from Canada but has the Taiwanese BCM, just confuses me as too which country has what wiring.
 
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