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Discussion Starter #1
hi folks,
you might like a mod that I do on rear dampers on 90s vits. If you have 2" spring spacers then cut off the lower damper mountings after measuring up 2 inches from the existing bolt hole. You have left a flat mounting at 90 degrees to the old fixing. drill through this, (don't go through the axle). turn the bottom damper eye through 90 degrees and bolt through with a one inch spacer between the eye and the 'new' mounting. works very well.

I always convert the lights to conventional earth and switched power as well, using high amp switches so no need for relays either.

I also get rid of the EGR valve, the throttle opener and the carbon canister but in such a way that it is not detectable by a visual.
 

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hi folks,
you might like a mod that I do on rear dampers on 90s vits. If you have 2" spring spacers then cut off the lower damper mountings after measuring up 2 inches from the existing bolt hole. You have left a flat mounting at 90 degrees to the old fixing. drill through this, (don't go through the axle). turn the bottom damper eye through 90 degrees and bolt through with a one inch spacer between the eye and the 'new' mounting. works very well.
Poor engineering practice - you're converting a double shear shock mount to single shear, and because you're using a bolt rather than a fixed (and suitably braced) stud you're going to end up with it working loose and I suspect bending the plate it's bolted to.

I always convert the lights to conventional earth and switched power as well, using high amp switches so no need for relays either
Again - an ill conceived notion - a relay is nothing other than an electrically controlled, high amp switch - but - by using relays, I have the opportunity to use short heavy gauge cables to rewire the headlights, thereby minimizing voltage drop, improving the performance of the headlights, and all without altering the appearance of the vehicle, or the functionality of any switchgear.
 

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As an automotive electronics design engineer I find positive switching quite unconventional. Switching on the ground side is the norm in electronics and electrical wiring, usually because the losses are lower; adding any 'switches' or relays to the headlight wiring will reduce the effectiveness of the headlights. Simple reliability calculations demonstrate that the more components you have the more failures you will have as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
oh! sorry you disagree folks

sorry that you disagree folks.

Whilst agreeing in principle with your single/double shear contrast I am assured by the fact that I have utilised this method of mounting the rear shockers for over ten years in production trials as well as well over a 100,00 miles on the road with absolutely no problems and longer lasting bottom bushes to boot. Also would say that all real Land Rovers have used this method since their inception.

Most vehicles use negative earth and positive switching so I'm happy with that method. Using one high amp switch and one fused wire to the earthed component must be simpler than an unsafe, (in my opinion) fixed, fused live to the component, a fused feed to the relay, a switched earth to the relay and a fixed earth....so, four wires opposed to one or a switch plus relay opposed to one switch?

So sorry we disagree but that's what makes the world go round I guess.
No ill feelings, peace and tranquillity.:cool:
 
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