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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I want to share with you the custom made subwoofer enclosure that I ordered from a Audio Shop here in Medellín.

It is made in fiberglass, with the recomended volume for the JL 10W1v2-4 driver.

I liked a lot as it doesn't take almost no space from the small cargo area in the Suzuki Reno/Chevrolet Optra5.

Hope you like it, and if you do, fell free to take the picture to you prefered audio shop to order one, but remember, it is custom made, you will not find it in any shop, it has to be hand made for your car.

Enjoy!
 

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Thats sweet man now you just need one for the other side to match :thumbsup:
Can you post some more pic of where you put your amp and where you put you ground wire?
Thanks, nebben
 

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Cricket said:
Hi,

I want to share with you the custom made subwoofer enclosure that I ordered from a Audio Shop here in Medellín.

It is made in fiberglass, with the recomended volume for the JL 10W1v2-4 driver.

I liked a lot as it doesn't take almost no space from the small cargo area in the Suzuki Reno/Chevrolet Optra5.

Hope you like it, and if you do, fell free to take the picture to you prefered audio shop to order one, but remember, it is custom made, you will not find it in any shop, it has to be hand made for your car.

Enjoy!
very cool, and i was just thinking over the weekend of if they had something like that so i wouldn't take up trunk space that i need...haha
 

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Discussion Starter #6
nebben said:
Thats sweet man now you just need one for the other side to match :thumbsup:
Can you post some more pic of where you put your amp and where you put you ground wire?
Thanks, nebben
Yes, I'm thinking the same about the other side, but I need another amp to power it.

About the amp, it's nothing special to show, it is a kenwood 640 Watt amp placed under the driver seat.

I will received this week a HID kit for the low beams, 8000k color temperature, I will post pics when I have them instelled.

Thanks for your post.

David.
 

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Cricket said:
Hi,

I want to share with you the custom made subwoofer enclosure that I ordered from a Audio Shop here in Medellín.

It is made in fiberglass, with the recomended volume for the JL 10W1v2-4 driver.

I liked a lot as it doesn't take almost no space from the small cargo area in the Suzuki Reno/Chevrolet Optra5.

Hope you like it, and if you do, fell free to take the picture to you prefered audio shop to order one, but remember, it is custom made, you will not find it in any shop, it has to be hand made for your car.

Enjoy!

sweet now i can take it to my audio guy and show the dumbass what i was talking about and then go somewhere else since he could not figure somthing like this out for me lmao
 

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Cricket said:
About the amp, it's nothing special to show, it is a kenwood 640 Watt amp placed under the driver seat.
The drivers seat.......
Never thought about puting it under there.
 

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Cricket said:
Hi,

I want to share with you the custom made subwoofer enclosure that I ordered from a Audio Shop here in Medellín.

It is made in fiberglass, with the recomended volume for the JL 10W1v2-4 driver.

I liked a lot as it doesn't take almost no space from the small cargo area in the Suzuki Reno/Chevrolet Optra5.

Hope you like it, and if you do, fell free to take the picture to you prefered audio shop to order one, but remember, it is custom made, you will not find it in any shop, it has to be hand made for your car.

Enjoy!
VERY VERY nice...

I wish I had Fiberglass skills :(
 

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Discussion Starter #12
kinkyllama said:
It would help alot with subwoofer to have the amp closer. But if your happy with the sound then who cares. I'm an effeciency freak
Really?? Can you explain a little bit on this?

It sounds very good to me but if it can be improved would be very nice!! :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
minchiajoe said:
what size woofer did u use?

Hi, I used a JL 10W1v2-4 driver, pretty nice sound, not too loud but very clear indeed. I might prefer a little louder bass, so I´m planning to make another enclosure for the oposite side. In fact, I ask the installer to put a 12" sub but he told me that the enclosure will have to be larger and won´t look as original as it looks right now, so I take his advice and kept the 10" sub, but I think I need another one.

Let me know your opinion.
 

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micro said:
how much did you spend on your cab???
Hi,

The enclosure cost me about $150, but you have to have in mind that here where I live the handmade jobs are cheaper than in US. For the sub you definitly will find it at a better price that I paid for it.
 

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lmfao at the dumbllama putting the amp closer to the sub is not more efficient. Explain that one to me, haha. Either way, your sub box looks pretty darn good, I myself do have fiberglass skillz and a few others ;) lol. Why didn't you have them angle the sub up and toward the rear a lil bit?

$150 is a good price, I probably wouldn't charge that here though. We charge by the hour. Personally I charge $55, but there is a shop nearby me that charges $90 an hour. In that case you better hope they are making you an ash tray! lol.
 

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bigbadjx said:
lmfao at the dumbllama putting the amp closer to the sub is not more efficient. Explain that one to me, haha. Either way, your sub box looks pretty darn good, I myself do have fiberglass skillz and a few others ;) lol. Why didn't you have them angle the sub up and toward the rear a lil bit?

$150 is a good price, I probably wouldn't charge that here though. We charge by the hour. Personally I charge $55, but there is a shop nearby me that charges $90 an hour. In that case you better hope they are making you an ash tray! lol.
Without getting into line losses/resistances and rfi, a simple rule to remember is that "The shorter the line, the better" when dealing with anything electrical.

Here's a link with a voltage loss calculator, if you're interested. American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits

Shortening the wires from the Amp to the Sub will also limit any potential RFI. (Wires act like antenna)

If you're an installer, you really should know this. :eek:
 

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masterbiscuit said:
a simple rule to remember is that "The shorter the line, the better" when dealing with anything electrical. Shortening the wires from the Amp to the Sub will also limit any potential RFI. (Wires act like antenna)

If you're an installer, you really should know this. :eek:
lol the shorter the line the better? Yes you are right, but guess what you have your power wire AND your sub wire. Either way you are going to lose. Have you ever metered this? I bet you haven't, because the loss is next to nothing and not a big deal either way. Either way you are going to lose, because both lines have resistance. Now if the battery were relocated to the rear of the car, then that is a whole nother story.

If I had an amp in my car placed at the foot of the passenger side front seat, where is the better ground, direct to the battery or chassis?

The battery, because there is more area to cover if you were to ground it to the chassis when you are that close to the battery, leaving less resistance.

You really should talk to some of the guys I talk to who are into competition audio and go to events.
 

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You're talking to someone with a Federal License in communications. So, I'm not totally off my rocker when I speak here.

Shorter = Better

Always.

Now, if I HAD TO CHOOSE between a shorter power line and/or a shorter audio line, guess which I would choose?

As well, the ideal setup would be to add an additional battery to the rear of the car run in parallel with the stock battery. This way the losses to the amp are always minimal. The recommendation would be an amp per watt. So, for 1000 watts I'd recommend one extra battery in the rear with at least 400 amps. For 2000, two batteries in addition to stock at at least 800 watts a piece.

As for grounding. You ground to BOTH. Granted, grounding direct to the battery is preferrable to the chasis only. But the ideal is to ground to both. The chasis helps eliminate RFI in that it is a large ground plane.

In fact, I'd recommend grounding more than just that. You should ground all openings as well. Hood, Trunk, Doors, hell, even the exhaust should be grounded, as this can pick up stray RFI from the ignition and broadcast it.

You should really talk to......well.....me, as I've run as high as 3000 watts in a vehicle with no noticable power drain and NO upgraded alternator.

But don't take my word for it. I'm just an anonymous internet voice. Just like you.
 
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