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Discussion Starter #1
When I push the clutch pedal on my '87 Samurai, it's stiff and makes creaking noises. I lubed the pivot but that didn't help much. Really hard to tell where the noise is coming from, but we think it's from the pedal area itself.

Suggestions?
 

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I would check the clutch cable for smooth operation, maybe lube the cable if its hard to operate, also maybe the clutch pedal return spring might be making the creaking sounds. hope that helps !
 

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I had a similar problem where when I pushed the clutch in it would creak. I thought for sure it was the pedal since that's where the noise seemed to be coming from. It would do it more when it was cold out or when the I first started the engine up in the morning. Turned out that the clutch cable was out of adjustment and my pedal was pulling the arm too far. I backed off the adjuster nuts so that the cable had enough movement to disengage the clutch at full pedal deflection but not so much that it was causing the creaking. I still got some creaking for a while as it all settled back to where it was supposed to be, but after a week the creaking was gone completely
 

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Your clutch cable is getting ready to snap... trust me... been there, done that.
My first one I had to drive home 15 miles in second gear. Only had to stop at 2 lights... meaning start in gear... in the snow... with a plow...
The second one broke in my back yard. If it's going to go, doing so in your own yard is nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Baratacus- that's very similar to what mine's doing.

I guess I'll crawl under there and disconnect the cable and see how it pulls when disconnected and then go from there. What I mostly wanted to know was whether a creaky clutch is a normal Samurai thing or not, and it seems that it's not.
 

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its not normal. ON mine, ironically it happened after I installed a new clutch cable, so I knew it wasn't the clutch cable. my misadjustment of the cable caused the creaking. It didn't start creaking untill about a week after I installed the cable so I didn't think that was the problem. Took me a while to track it down. I was sure it was the pedal.

The reason I bought the clutch cable to begin with was a different creaking that I could feel through the whole chassis. Someone told me it was probably my clutch cable so bought one to replace the original. It turned out that the center locator bolt on my rear leaf pack had sheared off and the creaking was my springs shifting and my rear axle rolling every time I clutched. That cost me a new rear axle. Once I replaced the axel, rear U-joints, and repaired my leaf pack, that creaking went away but I decided to install the new cable since I had already bought it and my original cable was 20 years old. This of course started a new creak from a different location than the last one.

Any time you hear creaking, track it down, figgure out what it is, and fix it.
 

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I had the same problem about two years ago and I thought it was time for a new clutch cable, the same reason as Baratacus. After installing the new cable the creak/squeak was still there every time I pressed the clutch. I didn't do anything for about a month hoping the creak/squeak would go away on its own, no such luck.

I tracked the creak/squeak to the pivot point of the clutch pedal. There is a bronze/brass sleeve or bush in the pivot point of the pedal and that was where the noise was coming from. You have to remove the pedal completely to access the bush after which it should fall into your hand if not just a little pressure to force it out.

I used a little bearing grease to lubricate the bush which fixed the problem. There has been no noise for over two years now. It took me about two hours to remove, lube and replace the pedal but I was taking my time. Hope this helps with your problem.
 

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You're right, you have to be a contortionist to get at the pedals. Slow and steady is the way to go. Before you start, disconnect the cable at the clutch end, this will give you more free play at the pedal. The clutch and brake pedals pivot on the same bolt, make sure you pull the bolt out far enough to release the clutch pedal only. If you pull it out too far the brake pedal will drop out as well and that is even more difficult to replace.

The clutch pedal also has a spring at the pivot point to make sure the pedal goes back to its rest position. Take note of how that spring is located before removing the pedal. I took photos to make sure the spring went back in the correct position. If you leave the spring off the pedal will have excessive free play.

I worked on the principle of this is so much of a pain I'll do the job properly first time and hopefully I won't have to do it again for at least another 10yrs. As I said in my original reply I have had no problems since greasing the pedal and hopefully I won't. I also removed the driver's seat to give myself more room.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That helps a bunch.

I drove around a little this afternoon and noticed that I don't really have to push the clutch in as much as I do (I'm used to my '97 Ford F250....). Hopefully between that and greasing the pivot I'll get this solved. If I find any roughness in the cable, might just do it now while I have it apart.
 

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The clutch cable is a wear-out item. Cables break at the most inopportune moment. I once had to drive out of Death Valley with a broken clutch cable. If yours is original, consider replacing it preventatively. The OEM clutch cables are actually the best. I like and use a graphite product called "Lock Ease graphited lock fluid" for cable lubrication. The liquid carrier that contains the suspended graphite evaporates leaving the graphite behind. Jig-A-Loo is another popular, but somewhat thicker, graphite spray. I bought mine at Home Depot.

Here's a link to a short comment on Moybdenum Disulfide powdered lubricants.
Better Lubricants than Graphite
 

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yea, and when they do bust, both of mine went in the middle... the ends looked fine. I know the ends were find because I always lubed the ends. On the last one the middle, expanded, and snapped, right near the radiator. My guess is the heat did it in. Oh, and not everyone carries them, including dealers. Most places they are a "order item".
If I dig around I may still have the last one. I'll take a shot of each end and the middle and post them.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I discovered something- my cable was routed wrong. It was routed over the top of the engine, coming down on the passenger side and clipped to a clip over there. This caused a S bend in the cable right before it goes to the bracket. I re-routed according to the manual, having to make a little clip there because the stock one is broken. Clutch action is a lot smoother now.

Will probably be ordering a new cable anyway, though, as mine does have some abrasion marks on it. I need some U-joints, too, since I have no idea of the status of mine. I'll get 'em both from Trail Tough.
 
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