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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, I've a similar issue (thread link below).. my 97 tracker 16v (5spd auto 4wd) had some low rpm power issues and a clicking noise...slight wobble in pulley so ordered new pulley..took off original and the crank bolt snapped off inside. is my only option to go to a machinist to remove the bolt? what would potential cost of that you think? my mechanic (brooklyn NY) doesnt seem comfortable attempting it and i dont have a lot of money to put in here. what is my most financially viable fix?

https://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-sidekick-escudo-vitara-geo-x/265547-tracker-97-crankshaft-pulley-replacement.html
 

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YOU will have to call around locally in order to determine pricing. Access to the crank end is the labor intensive part. Radiator, condenser if an A/C vehicle and alike interference in the way. From there, a decent Machinist can work his magic. ;)

That is your only recourse short of another crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
YOU will have to call around locally in order to determine pricing. Access to the crank end is the labor intensive part. Radiator, condenser if an A/C vehicle and alike interference in the way. From there, a decent Machinist can work his magic. ;)

That is your only recourse short of another crank.
Thanks! If I'm able to personally locate a capable machinist, is this something that can be performed on the vehicle parked somewhere? I live in brooklyn and accessing the vehicle in a reasonable location is half the battle.

Second, is removing and replacing all of the components in the way something I will be able to do with basic at home tools?
 

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You'll need an Shop evaluation to determine interference removal needs and procedures. Case in point IF the A/C condenser equipped, then the refrigerant charge will will have to be removed / recharged. This is IF there is not enough room to maneuver in there.

This isn't something that can be evaluated here without on-site Machinist input as to his tooling needs or what support equipment needs might be.

You can get some phone call feedback from Shops, but then you'll have to drag the car in there for further evaluation I'm afraid.
 

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Depending on where or how deep it is broken sometimes it is possible to weld a not to the broken bolt. You will need to weld in through the center of the bolt.
 

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removing broken crank bolt.

Sometimes this bolt breaks and the remaining part is not that tight.
1. Try moving it with a pick ( ice pick, dental pic,) If it does not move.
(This is a very large bolt , lots of room to drill hole. use a large left hand threaded bolt in following procedure)
2. One way is to drill hole in center of bolt. Tap with a left hand thread tap.
3. install a left hand bolt and try to remove broken part by turning out.

Get out of Brooklyn !!!.. There probably plenty of machinists over in New Jersey That can remove the bolt.

Yes you can remove the grill, radiator and shrouds your self with a minimum of tools, and minimum of knowledge. DO NOT remove the A/C condenser.. just lift it up a little to get it out of the way. (and save some labor costs. )BE CAREFUL.. DO NOT DAMAGE ANY OF THE OTHER PARTS YOU REMOVE. I BUY MY PARTS AT rockauto.COM.

In a last resort emergency i have welded the pulley to the end of the crank..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Get out of Brooklyn !!!.. There probably plenty of machinists over in New Jersey That can remove the bolt.
Easier said than done. And that will at least triple the towing charge. I have an engine guy in Long Island city working on it this weekend.
 

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the new welders use little heat to weld on a nut. I assume the poster has already thought of using an easy out. Not all repairs need to be done in a modern shop, us old Bluenoser use what we have at hand.
 

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Some times you have no choice.. you have to do what you have to do.. Later removed pulley, ground end of crank and repaired hole for new crank bolt. Yes this was a brilliant fix at the time.
 

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Low power issues also indicate that the keyway is sheared, sadly.
 
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