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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had 6 of the tracker/sidekick. Can not beat them. Just recently, I bought the suk for 500 buck's. replaced both back wheel cylinders, exhaust, battery and fuel pump. It runs sweet for 500 bucks. But on those cold Eastern Kentucky mornings it is a Bi*ch to start. Crank for 30 seconds three or four times. Have to let it Warm up for 3 to 5 min before it will even attempt to move with out dying off. It does have 295 thousand miles on it, Of witch I have ran up 7500. I am looking at a Master Rebuild kit for it sittin in the floor. but I would like some others input on this Cold starting problem before I go ahead and rebuild its ass. I figure It would be easer to already have everything bought when I pull the motor so I can have it done in a week end. The dash has been taken out, Check Engine light removed. Don't know of any codes it is throwing or nothing. But it will flood out some times when wheeling it in steep hills. The ol wide open Stop flood works every time. Only real issue is starting cold. Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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Check engine light removed... Sounds like the cold idle circuit has been disabled...
Sounds like you have been "PO'd" ... (Prior Owner modified.)

For $500, what do you expect? ;)

I'd fix the CEL and check the codes. Do a compression check, then fix things as you figure them out. Most of your issues most likely will _NOT_ go away with rebuilding the engine (long block) itself... unless the compression is really bad.
 

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x2. The check engine light is helpful, of course, as you can see if there are any major faults with any of the sensors. And a compression test will advise you of the health of the engine, as well as the timing. Do the compression test with all plugs out, F1 fuse removed and gas pedal floored. You should be getting somewhere about 190 psi on a warm engine.
Aside from timing, etc., difficulty in starting is usually attributed to not enough air or too much fuel at first start. When you try to start and its difficult, pull the plugs to see if the car is flooding (or floor the gas pedal which stops fuel delivery and see if it is easier to start). Or depress the gas pedal about 10% or so, which provides additional air, and see if its easier. Compression test, fuel pressure test, etc. would probably be the way to start, rather than a rebuild. And hook up the CEL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've checked the compression. All four are close to 160. The main reason I am going to rebuild it is cause oil is expensive and the valves chatter. No much on a loss of power. I think the problem is in the fuel delivery system or one of its supporting components like Tps maf. I've heard of a hidden switch behind the lower left dash that resets something but don't know what. Any tips on that? Thanks for the replies, you guys.
 

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Chattering valves and compression that is a tad low? How about doing the valve lash on the car to see if it helps??
The little switch behind the dash is for the service engine soon function, that turns the check engine light on after a specific number of miles. It would appear that you are not tremendously familiar with the car, even though you have owned so many of them, so I probably would read a bit on the forum to get more info on the various circuits before deciding I needed a rebuild. ???
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am fairly familiar with sidekick/tracker. I've rebuild a few and been threw tranny transfer case both diffs. But I've not had any experience with that switch. Assuming it was lash out of spec the vehicle would be troublesome to start hot or cold. Starts like new after it warms up just a few minutes. Spec is out, no questioning that. I just wonder if it's the maf tps or some senior along those lines. It's useing about a quart of oil every 10 days is why I am rebuilding it. And to take care of the valve lash
 

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Ah, well burning that much oil is a different matter......
 

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That's exactly what I meant - when you start the car from cold start, that it revs to about 2000 rpm and slowly drops to 800 rpm warm idle as the car heats up.
The oil loss frankly would be your main issue. Presumably you are getting loads of smoke if the oil is actually burning? Or do you have a leak somewhere?
There are circuits that assist in the cold start, to provide extra air and fuel - and of course checking plugs is a good indication if it is flooding, etc. at cold start. However, this is all immaterial if you have such an oil burning issue.
 
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