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Codes P0118 and P1705 Sidekick Sport 1.8l

3K views 22 replies 5 participants last post by  rasmeidirtrider 
#1 ·
I always get the codes P0118 and P1705. They always come back. 96 sidekick sport 1.8l. Did the research shows that P0118: Engine Coolant Temp sensor. Either blown open ECT sensor, unplugged connector or broken wire. P1705 also related to ECT sensor. ECU not receiving signal from ECT.

When I start the car at cold it is supposed the rpm increases to either 1500. Now it stops doing so.

How to find a shot wire??
 
#5 ·
FYI, running at -40 the ECU will flood the cylinders and make the engine run rich (start up mode, like using chock), this will wash the cylinder walls (loss of compression) and melt the CAT..
 
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#11 ·
Before your supplement gets to that last photo, it shows you the wiring tests that you need to conduct, before you decide that the ECT is bad. Wiring and connector tests always come first.
 
#12 ·
ws you the wiring tests that you need to conduct, before you decide that the ECT is bad. Wiring and connector tests always come first.
Thanks Bex. Do I need to remove the harness to inspect the specified wires of R/Y, Gr/Y, Gr, or ground circuit??
 
#13 ·
No, you don’t need to remove the harness. You check for continuity and voltage with your DVM, with the harness intact. Your supplement is dealing with testing pretty much solely by using a scanner. But ‘old school’ testing works just as well. For example the red/yellow wire is the coolant temp sensor signal. With the key on, you should have about 5v on that wire, etc. So the first test would be to check for the voltage on that wire, to see if there is an open or short to ground on that wire. The same for the gr/y wire. You can do this by backprobing.
 
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#15 ·
So the first test would be to check for the voltage on that wire, to see if there is an open or short to ground on that wire. The same for the gr/y wire. You can do this by backprobing.
There is no question of short/ground as this would report as ~360deg on the scanner, the -40 is definitely an open, either wiring or sensor..
 
#14 ·
And you can check the ECT sensor directly, using an ohm meter. With the engine cold, you should get high ohms, about 2000 ohms or more, depending on your ambient temp. When the engine is running, the ohms should be about 350 ohms or less.
 
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#17 ·
Basic test light and a multimeter for a start. Not an led test light, get an incandescent one as the bulb loads the circuit up a bit.
 
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#18 ·
I checked the wires by disconnecting and reconnecting the ECT coupler several times and scanned again. There are two same codes, P0118 and P1705. when I deleted the codes by the scan tool, only P0118 remains. When the P0118 is there, the P1705 comes again! The old coupler had the lock broken and I reconnected the new coupler. Same thing happens again. I assume the ECM is bad. I can still drive the car. One more thing if I starts the car in early morning the idle is a bit rough but the rpm increases to 1500 just two or three seconds and than down! In the past the rpm increases much longer than this.
 
#19 ·
I don’t think that checking the wires by disconnecting and reconnecting is a definitive test. If, as Aqua says above, your issue appears to be an open on that circuit, why not test/confirm with a DVM??
 
#20 ·
Updating: Found the open! They are the new connectors where the tap got loose. Never use the tap again!
Not mine but something like the pic.
Then I need to drive about 50 miles with several starts and stops. I noticed the flashing OD light disappeared but the SES light was there. Then I erased the two codes by the scan tool and they got deleted, before they refused to go! And drive 10 more miles and they don't come back.
 

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