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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Static (mechanical) timing is done to #4 TDC firing, electrical (spark) to #1
FSM says is #1 static/mechanical?. Its a 94 16V Vin 6, not 8v. I can try anyways, Ive got nothing to loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I set crank V mark at 5 BTDC, then inserted dizzy so it landed at 1pm. Started her and then tried to time her using strobe light with the DLC jumpered between 4 & 5? It should be 5 BTDC with DLC connector jumpered?
 

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The timing belt (valve timing) is timed to cylinder #4 firing. The ignition timing (distributor) is timed to #1 Irving.
When you are doing your ignition timing fine tuning with the timing light, you need to jumper the blue/red wired pin to the black wired pin at the diagnostic connector, to remove the ECU input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Valve timing you mean when setting T-belt and having crank at TDC mark at pump and CAM E mark UP thats #4, and that is untouched. What Im working is on electrical timing, and that one is crank at 0 mark on cover and rotor pointing to #1 spark when inserting dizzy. Correct?

Thx Bex and all of you people for your support.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
The timing belt (valve timing) is timed to cylinder #4 firing. The ignition timing (distributor) is timed to #1 Irving.
When you are doing your ignition timing fine tuning with the timing light, you need to jumper the blue/red wired pin to the black wired pin at the diagnostic connector, to remove the ECU input.
Now that you said it, My bad for confusing you guys by saying mechanical/static and that, in this particular moment, has not been touched. All I've been trying/working was the electrical/ignition timing and Yes I was doing it the proper way. And she firing UP proves that. Thx, again.
 

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OK, so just to recap, you now have found a replacement distributor, from a 95. While I don’t know the difference, and it may just be for connectors, note that there is a parts number difference between the 2wd and 4wd distributors. In any event, it is now firing. Note that when you drop down the distributor (as you have found out), it will rotate slightly, so that you must drop the distributor slightly before the ‘1pm’ mark to get it to land at 1PM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Hi guys. Its been a while since I last commented here. But now came the time. I went thru an engine rebuild because of a crack in my old block and I finished it last week. Started engine on and she fired up with good power and pep. I did this start up with VC off so I could see oil flow at head and boy did it. There was oil all over engine bay. Long story short. Went ahead and cleaned everything then tried again next day and after 4 attempts she fired again but only for a couple of seconds until she died by herself. Ill try to summarize what I have done so far (after rebuild) in order to get her going.

Key on 12v at fuel pump connector, as well on fuses 8, 3 and 14
Checked both relays (main and FI) for operation and continuity and swapped them and same result
Checked fuel pressure at fuel rail, quickly going to 10 PSIG (will need to get a gauge for proper pressure, as I used a vacuum/pressure gauge that only measures up to 10PSIG)
Im getting 12's on demand all the time
Got 42 only when CMP was disconnected, now connected, only 12's and no other code while cranking, testing, or key on
TPS ohms values at spec between pin 4 and 1 (4.15k) and 3 and 1 (idle 1.5k) (WOT 5.17k)
Volts at TPS grey/red wire were a 5.15volts
Volts at TPS grey wire were a bit high? idle .84volts and when WOT 4.14volts and spec is 3.5
Got spark in all wires by testing plugs to VC casing, testing all wires and plugs
Compression was done yesterday
1- 190 2-180 3- 150 4-190 cold WOT
Battery at 12.75 volts

Dizzy has been inserted many times using FSM method and by doing it many times in trying to make it land at 1pm or close to.
Cam timed to 4 TDC (E mark up) and firing to 1 TDC (E mark down).

All grounds double and triple verified on engine bay (the ones I disconnected due to engine removal)

Hope someone can chime in.

Regards!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Rechecked Cylinder 3 PSI today and its 180. Cold engine WOT. BTW all compression tests are done dry.
 

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My first thought in reading your post was that I hope that you replaced all the oil that flowed out when you tried to start without the valve cover on.
Your compression test is within spec so apparently no problem there.
As factory fuel pressure is 34-41psi on these engines, perhaps get a fuel pressure gauge that can properly measure your fuel pressure.
I’m assuming that the engine now cranks but won’t start. So, have you tried starter fluid to see if it will start on that, and continue to run as long as you continue to spray??
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Ok, yes all of the oil cleaned and replaced. I did try starting fluid but it did not start. Kind of tried to but not. I did it only spraying once closing booster vacuum port at IM and then cranking. Can manufacturer says not to spray while cranking? I got the Pyroil Starting fluid. Did I do it wrong? I found another thing, yesterday since it did not start, I went ahead again and tested spark at all wires but with lights out just to see how bright and blue flame was, and it was bright and blue, but when doing wire no. 4 I noticed that coil tower where wire that goes to dizzy goes, there was arcing. Bad coil? Wire not properly inserted? Im looking into that fuel pressure tester. Let me know when you can.

Thx!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
My first thought in reading your post was that I hope that you replaced all the oil that flowed out when you tried to start without the valve cover on.
Your compression test is within spec so apparently no problem there.
As factory fuel pressure is 34-41psi on these engines, perhaps get a fuel pressure gauge that can properly measure your fuel pressure.
I’m assuming that the engine now cranks but won’t start. So, have you tried starter fluid to see if it will start on that, and continue to run as long as you continue to spray??
Ohh another thing I noticed. Ever since it failed to start, while cranking I don't see tach needle moving?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Found this thread 1992 Vitara 16v Code 42, No Spark Help?
from here where member is using this CMP testing (which I still haven't properly done) but IIRC his is a 16V 94 (as mine) but his atachments on FSM procedure (post #18) are for VinU? Ours are Vin 6. Do they apply regardless of Vin code? Also this image you uploaded to which car it belongs to? 8V or 16V.
 

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Ohh another thing I noticed. Ever since it failed to start, while cranking I don't see tach needle moving?
The tach not moving is indicative of no CAM signal and so no spark (no spark, ECU cuts fuel), however you previously indicated you have verified spark...
You need to revisit this..
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
The tach not moving is indicative of no CAM signal and so no spark, however you previously indicated you have verified spark...
You need to revisit this..
Hi Aqua. Indeed there is spark. I tested all 4 wires from dizzy, as well as Coil tower wire test. Just now did dizzy connector 12v tests and test light turned on with key on, test light positive wire to blue/blk cavity and neg wire from light to neg at battery terminal and test light negative wire to black/green cavity and light positive wire to B+.
 

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Hi Aqua. Indeed there is spark. I tested all 4 wires from dizzy, as well as Coil tower wire test. Just now did dizzy connector 12v tests and test light turned on with key on, test light positive wire to blue/blk cavity and neg wire from light to neg at battery terminal and test light negative wire to black/green cavity and light positive wire to B+.
But do you have a visible spark at a plug when cranking?
 

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I assume that your check engine light is on with the key on, and off when the engine is cranking, correct?? When normally checking for codes, is your computer giving you a code 12?? If you put the jumper into the diagnostic connector (jump blue/yellow to black wired pins), then crank the car, and leave the key in the ON position. Do you get a code 41 or 42???
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
But do you have a visible spark at a plug when cranking?
Yes sir. Tested in all 4 wires and then from coil wire to dizzy. Question. Would any kind of spark at least ignite fuel? Or does it require a specific spark. My spark is bright and blue. My Plugs at .28

Javier
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
I assume that your check engine light is on with the key on, and off when the engine is cranking, correct?? When normally checking for codes, is your computer giving you a code 12?? If you put the jumper into the diagnostic connector (jump blue/yellow to black wired pins), then crank the car, and leave the key in the ON position. Do you get a code 41 or 42???
No. In some instances I did get 42, but I was cranking with dizzy connector off. 41's never in all this. Bex I still have doubts about my connector wire colors. For example supposedly CAS can be tested fro ohms from b3 to b16. B3 checks as the white wire which I tested fro continuity and there us. But b16 is pur/grn and goes to the data link or something. I still have not been able to test ohms because of this. I did get 12v key on for the blue/black and black/green but no blinking test light at white wire. Then again that test is for Vin u? Or does it applies to my Vin 6? Today Ill do a complete pin tests for voltage at ECU.

Thx!!
 

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Bottom line is this - you're getting a spark.

To get a spark, the ECU has to switch the igniter on/off, to know when to switch the igniter on/off, the ECU has to see the CAS output from the distributor.

If the ECU sees the engine being cranked without any signal from the CAS, it sets a code 42, which you get if you leave the distributor disconnected - you're NOT getting a code 42 when the distributor is connected.

Perhaps it's time to stop focusing on the CAS sensor and move on with basic troubleshooting - you have spark, do you have fuel? Have you checked the fuel pressure yet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
These are the wire colors to my specific model according to this FSM which I think is for my car. See in the last attachment that there is suppose to be continuity between b3-and b16
95ecu2w.jpg


Thats from Jerry's. Oops just re-reading this, in these past days, all tests have been done with the DTC connector jumped.

Screen Shot 2021-07-19 at 11.09.14 PM.png


Screen Shot 2021-07-19 at 11.10.26 PM.png


Screen Shot 2021-07-19 at 11.10.49 PM.png


This just to be sure that these are my specific wire colors and then on be sure which pins to test.
 
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