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Wondering why my books telling me to pull the distributor out to take the trans out,just trying to get my daughter s tracker going new to this vehicle. any input much appreciated!
 

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Welcome to the forum, it's a good idea to tell us what vehicle you're working on, maybe put it in your signature so you don't have to keep entering it in every discussion, and we don't have to keep asking.

Which books would those be? I just took a look at the Suzuki FSM and there's nothing in it about removing the distributor when pulling the transmission.

Anyway, the most likely reason is that you're going to be removing the transmission mount, which also supports the engine - without the transmission, the engine can tilt backwards allowing the distributor to come into contact with the firewall which will usually break the cap at a minimum.
 
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Why pull the distributor: Chances are good that the engine will be lowered, tilted 'down' at the rear, to be able to access various bolts holding the trans in AND access to other things...like 5th gear and reverse switches (manual trans) AND to have room to slide the trans/transfer case AWAY from the engine. The distributor sits SO close to the firewall that the dizzy may be damaged when the engine is lowered/tilted in such a fashion.

Be sure to know which cylinder is designated to be the alignment for the ignition. My Tracker is cylinder #4...NOT cylinder #1 as you might presume. It's a whole lot easier getting the thing up and running if you do NOT use the wrong cylinder to time/align/install the distributor.

Also...my service manual ('89 Tracker 8-valve) says to take the transfer case and trans out together. There is ONE TC (transfer case) bolt that is pretty much impossible to get to unless the two pieces are OUT of the rig. Hence the 'take 'em out together' instruction.

IF this is a manual transmission rig:

Chances are excellent that the pilot bearing will have gone bad....and the input shaft of the transmission damaged as a result. The input shafts were still available the couple years back I took mine out. If you hear any whine noise when the clutch is not engaged (no foot on pedal) in neutral, chances are excellent that yours is toast.

IF your pilot bearing looks good and the trans input shaft is NOT damaged, certainly REPLACE the puny little pilot bearing while the trans is out. It's easy to do and certainly a wise decision.

Said to prepare you for what you might find....in a manual trans rig.

Have fun!
 

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Chances are excellent that the pilot bearing will have gone bad....and the input shaft of the transmission damaged as a result. The input shafts were still available the couple years back I took mine out. If you hear any whine noise when the clutch is not engaged (no foot on pedal) in neutral, chances are excellent that yours is toast.

IF your pilot bearing looks good and the trans input shaft is NOT damaged, certainly REPLACE the puny little pilot bearing while the trans is out. It's easy to do and certainly a wise decision.


Have fun!
Ummm, correct me if im wrong, but foot off clutch pedal in neutral locks input shaft to flywheel. Pilot bearing is immobile at thus point, its only spinning when gearbox is in gear and foot is on clutch.

The noise you describe above i have highlighted in bold would be the main input shaft bearing in the front of the gearbox. Pilot and throwout bearing noise usually occur when clutch is disengaged and gearbox is in gear which stops the input shaft rotating.

And check your fsm, i believe ign timing is done to #1 cylinder. Cam is done to #4
 
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Ummm, correct me if im wrong, but foot off clutch pedal in neutral locks input shaft to flywheel. Pilot bearing is immobile at thus point, its only spinning when gearbox is in gear and foot is on clutch.
You're 100% correct, and for what it's worth - "no foot on pedal" IS clutch engaged ...

The clutch is engaged when it's "delivering power", and disengaged when it's not.
 

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GV said:
Ummm, correct me if im wrong, but foot off clutch pedal in neutral locks input shaft to flywheel. Pilot bearing is immobile at thus point, its only spinning when gearbox is in gear and foot is on clutch.
Yep. I skipped a step. The pilot bearing fails, the input shaft follows. What makes the whine is the input shaft. Or....the improperly confined contact between the input shaft and the cluster gear.

I often call a reciprocating assembly and associated parts that make up an internal combustion device a 'motor'.

I also think DC 'electricity' moves from positive to negative. But...is it the electron or the hole...

fordem said:
You're 100% correct, and for what it's worth - "no foot on pedal" IS clutch engaged ...

The clutch is engaged when it's "delivering power", and disengaged when it's not.

Clutch 'engaged' or disengaged'? OK.

GV said:
And check your fsm, i believe ign timing is done to #1 cylinder. Cam is done to #4
Who said anything about ignition timing? The point was, 'Where is the distributor (rotor) pointing before you take it (the distributor) out?' 'For the ignition' to be correct, does it matter? Yes. For the TIMING to be set? I didn't say anything about that.
 

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When replacing the clutch, locating a piece of 2x4 between the head and the firewall will keep the distributor from contacting the firewall (the motor will pivot on the two engine mounts when you drop the transmission support). There is still room to access all the bolts. Taking the transmission out with the transfer case connected is an easy way to go. KickFix's site is a good source for step-by-step instructions in my opinion.

Cheers
 

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and remember that once you unbolt transmission, engine will tilt the other way around and smash radiator fins.... :)

so put a lenght of wood at the front to prevent that
 
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