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When you're towing the manual instructs you to put the transfer case in Neutral, which engages the front output hub, so that the front axle is driven by the rear axle - once the axle is being driven, the auto hubs will engage.
 

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Ah, ok, thanks! Another reason why I don’t like the auto hubs...lol
 

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Autohubs are very, very convenient, so much so that you might never understand it until you no longer have them.

I fitted manual hubs to my GV as the first step into permanently engaging the pneumatic freewheel mechanism, and then realized how often I would have to get out to manually engage the hubs, in my case, a lot more often than I thought I would need to - and if you have to step out into the muck that you hadn't foreseen, it's just, let's say inconvenient.
 

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One of the ways I attempt to get around that is if I think I’ll encounter some issue where I need 4wd, I’ll lock my hubs before I go out, keeping the transfer case in 2wd, until I need to switch over. In the winter, many of the farmers here lock their hubs at the beginning of the bad weather, and keep them locked until the daily need for 4wd has passed, so that all they need to do is just put the transfer case into 4wd when they need it.
 

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We don't always have the luxury of being able to predict when we'll need to use 4WD - there has been more than one occasion on which I've taken my wife out for an evening and needed it to get out from where I've parked.

Before I fitted the manual hubs, it was spin the tires, click it into 4H, back out, click it back into 2H and go - now it's spin the tires, click into 4H, get out and lock the hubs, back out ...
 

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The only issues I have seen with autos is lack of maintenance and too liberal use of heavy grease..

Many yrs ago I wrote a detailed scheduled clean and lube for cold weather... Which is an issue here in Canada...
 

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I think that the autos have plastic parts in them, that make them more difficult to service. I suppose I wouldn’t mind them as much, if you could actually SEE that they were in the locked position. Anyway, I’ll stick with the manuals.....LOL
 

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Always learning, so ok, I’ll ask.....:)
The issue is due to only having a single shifter, our transfercases do not have a TRUE neutral. Anytime the shifter lever is forward of the 2wd position (all the way to the rear), the front and rear driveshafts are locked to each other. This includes the "neutral" position found between 4H and 4L.

Anytime a TracKick is moving in 4H, 4L or N, the front driveshaft is being driven the same as the rear one. In "N" the rear wheels drive the rear driveshaft. That in turn drives the front one and both front axles.

Auto-Hubs have no way to know if the movement is from the motor, or from the rear wheels. So they lock up. Granted, they don't lock up as reliably as being driven by the motor, but it only takes both to lock for a short time while being pulled at highway speeds. Driveline wind-up, without anyone riding in the vehicle to notice it, can and will blow transfercases apart or other major damage.

Several of the off-road shop make twin shifters for our transfer cases. This gives you one lever than selects H-N-L and the other selects 2 or 4 wheel drive. True neutral would be N with 2wd.

Anyone who wants to do a non-destructive test, take your rig with a helper.
1. Park on a hill
2. Open the hood and watch the front drive shaft.
3. Have your helper let the rig roll in 2wd with the transmission in "N".
--- The front drive shaft should not turn unless something is not right.
4. Put the transmission in park or gear (2nd is called for) and the transfer case in "N".
5. Have your helper let the rig roll.
-- You will see the front drive shaft turn as the rig rolls down hill. This can and will drive the front axles and hubs just like the motor.

Pretty much shows why auto hubs are no good for "4 down towing."

Questions?
 

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Mike, thanks for the explanation....:)
 
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