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Discussion Starter #1
My son's 92 Tracker jumped the timing belt and after I got it running I managed to clear all the codes, cleaned the EGR, idle valve, fixed several vaccum leaks ( it was idling at 3k) changed the inlet air temp sensor (got one from Suzuki Marine in Japan) and finally got it idling nicely. Then I spent a couple of days fixing the tranny after which it sat for a couple of days. When back to it today to work on the RWAL brakes and its idling at 1500! So I let it warm up and it idled back down to ~850 though I can hear a bit of a sine wave that isn't discernable on the guage and the CEL is back - no codes! Tried multiple times to get a code with no luck. It goes away once it cools back down, has plenty on coolant, a new WTS and guage sensor. I'm stumped.
 

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As you advise that the timing belt jumped, I’d probably do a compression test with your new belt set up, to make sure it’s correct.
You advise that when you went to restart, the engine was idling at 1500 rpm but ‘when it warmed up’ it idled back down. When your 8v starts up, it usually idles about 2000 rpm or so for 5-10 seconds, then drops to 1500 rpm, and slowly, over the course of 5 minutes or so, as the engine warms up, drops down to 800 rpm. So, perhaps the engine wasn’t warm yet?? I don’t know about the sine wave that you hear - unless you want to upload a video or audio file to let us hear what you’re hearing.
For the CEL - are you sure that the service engine soon switch hasn’t been tripped? If you open the panel below the steering column, and put your hand straight down about 3 inches or so, you’ll find a tiny sliding switch. Try sliding it to the opposite place of where it is now. If that SES function is tripped, it stops you from getting codes until it’s turned off.
But in re-reading your post, you seem to be saying that once the engine is warmed up, the CEL goes away?? Normally, only the IAT (which you’ve apparently replaced, although from Suzuki ‘Marine’????) or the coolant temp sensor would be affected by temps.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Warms up as you discribed then the light comes on. I haven't checked the compression since repair so I'll do that again. I did flip the SES switch but I guess I could try it in the other position. The IAT bulb I bought was the same part number but the body was a little shorter; I guess I could test it to ensure it has the same tolerences - or just get the one from the parts store; it just didn't look right.
 

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What’s an IAT ‘bulb’??
 

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Try flipping the little switch, with the key in the on position and the diagnostic jumper in place. Sometimes you need to flip the switch back more than once. At one of the positions, the CEL should either go out, or start blinking....
I’d also check the ohms reading across that IAT (and the coolant temp sensor, as well). The ohms should be high when the engine is cold, and low when it warms up. I’d also check the voltage on each - the red/black on the IAT, and red/yellow on the CTS, carry the signal voltage - it should be the 5v reference.
 
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