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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey dear ppl,

A little introduction, I am very newbie about car repair/maintenance but I am very interested about learning from the basics and I want to do it with my "new" Tracker 92, love it! (you already helped me with all the information provided on this forum, thank you very much for your time invested here). Anyway, my concern is this, I performed a jump wire to get the error codes because the CEL was always on and the idle warm was 1000 RPM, I did this (got code 12=all good) and left the jump wire connected then went to work, when I came back home I went for a ride with the Tracker forgetting the jump wire was still connected, then when I found out I turned the car off and unplugged the jump wire. When I turned the car back on, the light was off and warm idle was a stable 800 RPM. So I want to know why this happened if possible or get some clues about it. Hope you can help, appreciate it very much?


PD: sorry for my english errors.
 

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The code you see "12" refers to the ECU reporting no issue, the reason the CEL was on, now off would be that there was an intermittent error..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks for the reply, yeah when I first connected the jump wire and just turned the key to ON, the code was 12 (all good), I don't get why the CEL was stuck on (CEL was on all the time since I acquired this car 3 months ago) but it showed code 12 and why the warm idle RPM went from 1000 to 800? Also did I somehow erased the stored error codes and the problem might still be there?
 

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Jumping the diagnostic connector doesn’t erase codes - if you want to remove the codes that are in memory, remove the fuse for the dome light for a minute and then reconnect it, which will erase all codes. Regarding why the CEL was on all the time since you acquired the car (and hmmm....you bad, driving around and never curious as to why the CEL was on full time??) perhaps when you used the jumper wire you may have ‘repaired’ a connection that was causing the light to remain on for some reason. I do question, though - you advise that you left the jumper wire in - wasn’t the CEL continuing to flash for the entire time that you were driving around?? I’m not sure how someone can ‘forget’ with that light flashing right in front of their nose....lol.
Anyway, using the jumper wire will not have repaired anything that would knock your idle down. You may want to advise exactly what your engine does from cold start - note that your engine normally won’t drop down to 800 rpm until the engine is fully warmed up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks for your reply, as soon as I get home I will get detailed information about the engine behavior from cold start. And about the CEL flashing right in front of my nose... yeah idk wth is wrong with me lol?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi ppl, I'm back and it went like this:

1. Turn key ON-CEL on and a sound came from the engine (fuel pump?)

2. Cold start-engine on-CEL off, 300 RPM idle. ?

3. Engine on 5 min, 600 RPM idle.

4. Engine on 10 min, 800 RPM idle.

5. Engine on 36 min, CEL on, 800 RPM idle.
 

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In your car, the fuel pump will prime for 3 seconds at each key on. Perhaps that‘s what you heard (if it wasn’t ticking, clicking, etc.)
Here is what’s supposed to happen when you start your car from cold:
The idle should be about 2000 rpm or so. Within 5-10 seconds, you should hear a definite drop of 500 rpm, as the throttle opener in the rear of the engine closes when the ECU comes online. Your idle is now about 1500 rpm. There is a mechanical wax pellet valve in the front of the throttle body that has an air port that is providing extra air to keep the idle up. As the engine heats up, the wax melts, and pushes the valve forward slowly, until that port is blocked. The idle is slowly dropping until it gets to about 800 rpm when the engine is fully warmed up.
As the car is new to you, I’d probably start with a compression test on the engine to verify engine timing. And post your results. I’d also confirm that your spark plugs are gapped to .7mm, and not just used out of the box.
It appears, however, that once your engine is warmed up, it does hit the factory rpm, so that your issue would probably be with the throttle opener and wax pellet valve not working as they should.
For the throttle opener, if you look at the front of the engine, you’ll see two VSV‘s sitting together - they look like little top hats - one is blue (that goes to the EGR circuit) and one is brown. The brown one is for the throttle opener, and one the hose to it will run to the rear of the engine, to the throttle opener. The throttle opener only works for about 5 seconds or so, so it is possible to ‘bypass’ this with the gas pedal.
The other issue is the wax pellet valve - if you look at the front of your engine, find the throttle position sensor, and a few inches to the left of that you’ll see a metal plate held on by a couple of screws. If you remove the plate when the engine is cold, you’ll see what looks like a black plunger that should be sitting far enough back so that you see an air port on the right......Do you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bex, thanks for the reply.

Ok, my car is missing the VSV, that probably explains the low RPM at start (but I also have to check for the wax pellet valve) Anyway seems like you gave me some homework so as soon I got the tools I'll check for the wax pellet valve, engine timing and spark plugs. I lack the tools to perform this procedures right now (this is my first car, I have tools for other tasks but not for a car), it's inside my budget for the next pay check to start buying stuff sooo as soon as I get the results I'll post them, thank you very much this is so exciting?

One more question, regarding the CEL stuck on (Engine on) showing code 12, ECM related right I should inspect it? or is there something else that might be going on?

Again, thanks for sharing you knowledge helping me?
 

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Code 12 means that your ECU does not see any major faults. Note that in OBD1 cars, circuits practically have to fail in order for the ECU to pick up faults. The fact that your CEL was flashing code 12 (and make sure it is 12 and not 21. There are longer pauses in between codes, and Suzuki was very nice to have code 15, 51, 12, 21 etc...lol)
The issue about the throttle opener. The default position for the throttle opener is open (it’s only when the VSV starts giving it vacuum, that the diaphragm closes). You may want to inspect the throttle opener (a valve that looks just Ike the EGR valve, that is across and diagonally beneath the distributor) to see if it is open or shut. This is not a major issue, however, as it only actually works for 5 seconds or so. Regarding the wax pellet valve....all you really need is a screwdriver to take the small plate off, and maybe a flashlight to look inside....lol. No special tools needed for this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Hi Bex, I have I screwdriver atleast lol so I went and opened the wax pellet valve:

95769



Also I double checked the CEL, confirm code 12 but CEL turns on eventually when driving, if it turns on isn't there supposed to be an error stored? , I am confused about this why is throwing code 12 then. Also I was wrong, the car does have the two VSV connected. About the throttle I will try to find it tomorrow because daylight is gone and I was been eating by mosquitos (must buy repellent so I can work at night)
 

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Off the wall thought could it be possible that you also set it to freeze timing (bumping it to 1000 rpm ?) Also from personal experience be very careful with any object near that plunger in the iac you could damage the rubber and it will forever leak -> not good bad!!!! Ask me how I know hahahaha. And be real sure the egr modulator is turned correctly. The space ship flying sauce do yicky above the throttle body egr and iac cant miss it. It has a small Q and a small P on it and it does matter which vacuum hose is plugged into which. I appologize as I cannot remember at the moment which is correct but that will cause an oddball CEL with no noticable effect on the engine while its running.
 

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Take a look through the photos on this link:
Even though it’s for the 16v, the wax pellet valve is the same for you. While your photo is a bit fuzzy, you appear to be saying that the opening on the right side of the housing is clogged up??
Also, you advise that the CEL starts flashing while you are driving. While it’s difficult to count flashes if you’re keeping your eye on the road, maybe if you have a passenger, you can ask them to count. Is this happening without the jumper wire attached? And are you doing anything specific at the time the CEL starts flashing??
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Off the wall thought could it be possible that you also set it to freeze timing (bumping it to 1000 rpm ?) Also from personal experience be very careful with any object near that plunger in the iac you could damage the rubber and it will forever leak -> not good bad!!!! Ask me how I know hahahaha. And be real sure the egr modulator is turned correctly. The space ship flying sauce do yicky above the throttle body egr and iac cant miss it. It has a small Q and a small P on it and it does matter which vacuum hose is plugged into which. I appologize as I cannot remember at the moment which is correct but that will cause an oddball CEL with no noticable effect on the engine while its running.
Thanks for the info, I double checked and I think I put the jump wire correctly
95775
 
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