[fordem]

I'd suggest a 10w30 for a temperate climate, I run a 10w40 in the tropics.

 

[Bex]

The parts catalogue I'm looking at says 4PK790 for a "Type1" car, 4PK810 for a "Type2/3". What "Type" car do I have, or how can I check?

The Suzuki parts catalog is quite confusing for all the Santana made cars, as it indicates ‘type’ rather than the model year, and, at least personally, I have no idea what that means. My 1997 Vitara had a brake system that was listed under SE416 (Santana), while I would have expected that perhaps a 1997 might be ‘type 2’ or ‘type 3’ because of its manufacture year. If anyone here knows what on earth the Santana categories are, it would be nice to know.

In any event, hopefully putting your VIN in that website will help. For your alternator belt, it appears that the part number is 17521 60A00, for all Santana years, which should help you. What I normally do, when looking for a part, is to go through a number of the Santana models listed, and if the part number is the same throughout (which it is for the belt), then I know it’s correct.

 

[turboguzzi]

I'd suggest a 10w30 for a temperate climate, I run a 10w40 in the tropics.

Fordem, you are not up to date, UK is a tropic country too

This was the hottest year yet for the UK

It’s been a disastrously hot year.

www.theverge.com

go for 10W40

 

[this.rob]

😂 UK does not feel tropic right now I can tell you! Seems to be getting more and more variable...

Thanks for the advice, will stick to the FSM and use that parts site. Although it says "not found" for my VIN...

Partsouq.com recognises it:

The Vitara I bought was the only one that didn't have "Santana" on the VIN plate. I think it might be a Japanese manufactured one?

 

[Bex]

Fordem, you are not up to date, UK is a tropic country too

China is suffering from global warming, as well:

Chinese city breaks its record for lowest ever temperature at -53C

Extreme temperatures are witnessed as northern parts of Asia suffer through cold snap

www.independent.co.uk

 

[2013GV]

+25 on the Haynes, burn it immediately

 

[turboguzzi]

or donate to charity for lower environmental impact

 

[2013GV]

or donate to charity for lower environmental impact

Burn it, its winter there

 

[Bex]

The first 2 letters/digits of your VIN will indicate the nation of origin and the manufacturer. For example, my VIN starts with 2CN, indicating it was built in Canada (2) by Suzuki (C). If you have a J listed, it will indicate Japan.

 

[this.rob]

Yup, ours starts with a J so its Japan made.

Spent some more time last night working on replacing the timing belt. Got the water pump and crank pulleys off, got it to TDC on cylinder 1 (is that necessary before taking off the belt and replacing?) Got the timing belt cover off but heads snapped off on the two lower bolts in the process, not sure what to do about that The timing belt euro car parts gave me is also totally wrong so I'm trying to source a correct one. Seems to be either 103RU25 or 103XR25 does anyone know the difference or where to buy one from (UK)? The currently fitted one is 103XR

 

[this.rob]

I've re-read the linked rhinoman workshop manual and it seems like TDC on piston 4 (compression) is the position it needs to be in when installing the new belt. But it doesn't say to get it into this position before removing the old belt, only to turn the cam and crankshaft pulleys into this position after removing the belt, moving each independently. Is it not better to get the pulleys into this position before removing the old belt? The manual also says to completely loosen the valve adjusting screws on the rocker arms first, so I'm guessing that then means it is safe to move the pulleys independently?

 

[Bex]

Please put your car’s specs into your signature, and advise exactly what you are driving, engine, year, tranny, etc. Assuming that this is the 16v engine, the parts catalog indicates (at least for all US and EU market cars) that the timing belt part number is 12761 71C00.
By the way, hopefully you did not remove the center 17mm bolt when removing the crank pulley (unnecessary to do this, as the pulley will be removed with the 5 smaller bolts). If you did, make SURE that you retorque that bolt to 94 ft/lbs when replacing it (and if not, check the torque on that bolt while you’re there).
Yes, the timing belt is done to cylinder #4 firing. Maybe ‘wrong’ according to the FSM, but we’ve always lined it up before removing the existing belt.