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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys. Tracker has been running good since I last put her back on the road, but I did and oil check about 2 weeks ago and found that it was low. There are no leaks anywhere: oil pan, dizzy, VC etc. So went ahead and added a quart. This was 2 weeks ago and now its close to the add mark. Pulled cylinder one plug out (the one that used to carbon on my no start issue) and it was a mess. Did compression test cold/wot and it measured 189psi on Cyl 1, cylinder 2-195, cylinder 3-180 and cylinder 4-189 also. Did wet on 1 and 2 and 1 went up to 215 and 2 to 220. Plugs on all other 3 cyl. are looking great. Even with plug 1 like that she starts great, no misfire, hesitation whatsoever. Could the oil be going past rings on cylinder 1 even with what I consider good PSI from what I read elsewhere? Maybe the sooty stuff out of tailpipe is oil and not gasoline like it was mentioned in the other thread? This is the oil from the rebuild and Truck now has close to 800 miles since rebuild. Does a bad PVC affects this or not? Could it be the valve stem seals? Where else could that oil be going besides combustion chamber? Also, coolant is not contaminated. Any input as always is appreciated.

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Javier
 

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Vzlve stem seals or worn or broken oil control rings. Would be my guess, im leaning towards stem seals, got access to a bore scope? If you can get a look down the inlet tract without removing the manifold (or pull the inlet manifold) and see how oily the head inlet passage is for#1 cylinder compared to the others.
 

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ouch, not good....
if you want to make sure it burns inside or not, have someone drive the car and follow it, with such high consumption would expect to see and smell plenty of oil smoke from the pipe, specially in deceleration.
dont remeber if you rebuilt the engine yourself or gave it to someone. in second case would expect some minimal warranty on the work, 800 miles is too soon to have it smoking.
 

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Did you ever check or replace your PVC valve??
 

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maybe its just me, but would be concerned with PCV valve if it was spewing oil from breathers, etc.
With one plug totally fouled, the writing is on the wall... really hope i can be proven wrong and its something minor
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Vzlve stem seals or worn or broken oil control rings. Would be my guess, im leaning towards stem seals, got access to a bore scope? If you can get a look down the inlet tract without removing the manifold (or pull the inlet manifold) and see how oily the head inlet passage is for#1 cylinder compared to the others.
There is the possibility that they were installed wrong, and also that they came defective, but they are new. Will look into that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ouch, not good....
if you want to make sure it burns inside or not, have someone drive the car and follow it, with such high consumption would expect to see and smell plenty of oil smoke from the pipe, specially in deceleration.
dont remeber if you rebuilt the engine yourself or gave it to someone. in second case would expect some minimal warranty on the work, 800 miles is too soon to have it smoking.
That's the thing, car does not smoke. I have done that but not for a long drive, so I haven't seen when it decelerates.
I did the rebuild. But IIRC is not smoking, or at least not the way with such high oil burning.
 

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Are you saying you've gone through two (2) qts in roughly 800 miles?

Have someone drive behind you and look for the smoke - although I'd like to think that if you're burning that much oil, it's going to be quite visible - it's also going to be oil rings - that is too much oil for it to be the valve seals.

You say this engine was "rebuilt" - exactly what was done during the "rebuild"? Re-bore? Re-ring? If it was a re-ring job, were the cylinders honed? Were the cylinders checked for "ovality" (out of round) and the extent of the wear determined before the decision made to re-ring?
 

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another possible mistake that ive seen happening is installing rings wrong way up, did you check the tiny "top" markings at the ring gap?

but like said above, id expect to see smoke, engine has to be really warm to show up, deceleration is when you really see it. put a finger inside the silencer exit, would be oily if it burns oil....
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Are you saying you've gone through two (2) qts in roughly 800 miles?

Have someone drive behind you and look for the smoke - although I'd like to think that if you're burning that much oil, it's going to be quite visible - it's also going to be oil rings - that is too much oil for it to be the valve seals.

You say this engine was "rebuilt" - exactly what was done during the "rebuild"? Re-bore? Re-ring? If it was a re-ring job, were the cylinders honed? Were the cylinders checked for "ovality" (out of round) and the extent of the wear determined before the decision made to re-ring?
Cylinders honed and new rings. I checked for cylinder diameter and ring end caps to meet specs, but never checked out of round.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
another possible mistake that ive seen happening is installing rings wrong way up, did you check the tiny "top" markings at the ring gap?

but like said above, id expect to see smoke, engine has to be really warm to show up, deceleration is when you really see it. put a finger inside the silencer exit, would be oily if it burns oil....
View attachment 103724
Yes, third rebuild and made quite sure I put them in the correct orientation and ring gaps not meeting each other and piston wrist orientation. But maybe a f___up on this one. Things happen. Will try to do a long drive wife driving and me watching and look for what you mention.
 

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Crankshaft Seal
How is that going to burn oil? If you read post 1 he says #1 plug us badly carboned up and get has no oil leaks. If the crank seal either front or rear was leaking that bad there would be evidence
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
And out of curiosity, compression should not go up in wet test if rings are sealing properly or it does anyways? Because Ive read that if you add the oil and compression stays the same then all is good pistons rings wise and problem is elsewhere when looking for compression loss.
 

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And out of curiosity, compression should not go up in wet test if rings are sealing properly or it does anyways? Because Ive read that if you add the oil and compression stays the same then all is good pistons rings wise and problem is elsewhere when looking for compression loss.
Id expect a couple if psi increase, but none certainly indicates the compression rings are in good order. Oil rings however can be completely shot and not show up in a compression test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Id expect a couple if psi increase, but none certainly indicates the compression rings are in good order. Oil rings however can be completely shot and not show up in a compression test.
Ok. Well cyl 1 and 2 both increased around 15psi in the wet test, but as I said cyl 1 is the one getting fouled.
 

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Id say 1 and 2 have a ring sealing issue possibly. I hate to say it, but head off and measure for ovality might be the next step, or for signs of glazing. What was the taper in the bores like?
 

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surely a look inside with a boroscope is worth trying before disassembly....
another thing you could try is to change valve seals with the "rope method" but you better know what you are doing
 
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