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Discussion Starter #1
My rebuild of GIZMO this week took a bad turn. I purchased the 1988 Sami about 3 months ago and have been updating and replacing a big portion of parts for a while. Wifes in Europe so I backed it into the garage and removed the motor and took it the the machine shop. Everything is all painted up nice and clean in anticipation of getting the motor back monday. Got a call today and was told the block has a crack in the #2 cylinder. Can't use the block, but the head is ok. Their looking for another block. Just another expensive setback.



GIZMO
 

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Its not unusual for the block to crack if its been overheated, usually it goes between #3 and #4.
 

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blocks crack in engines from uneven thermal expansion where there's poor coolant circulation and the different areas of the block don't heat evenly. Some engines like the new honda civics have casting defects or are poorly designed and the problem is common and inherant to a specific engine. That's not a problem with the samurai engine. Another cause is lack of antifreeze in a sub freezing condition and the block cracking from expanding frozen coolant or water while sitting overnight. I've heard of people cracking a block by putting cold water into an empty radiator when the engine is overheated. I know loss of coolant from an engine block crack can cause overheating, but overheating an engine typically doesn't crack the block. Could crack the head though from an overheat.
 

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Overheating causes coolant loss which leads to uneven heating and cracking, it is fairly common with newbies in Zuks in mud.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Talked to the shop today and no luck with a block yet. Will probably have to buy a block already built up which means more money. Small setback but I'm running out of time before hunting season.



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Discussion Starter #9
I don't have the block right now. I will have it next week. I dought the shop will be able to find another block, so I will just go get all of it. I will try and take pictures to post.


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are you just looking for a block and swapping all the internals over? or are you looking at a short block with the pistons and crank and everything in it? There are plenty of places online to buy rebuilt engines from. A rebuilt short block should cost you between $600 and $800 depending on shipping and core charges etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
When I took the block to the machine shop it was going to be a long block. They said the head was ok. All I need is a block now....but that seems to be the hard part to find. I have found lots of places on-line where I can purchase a complete long block ready to install for 1800.00 to 2000.00 delivered to my house. That's alot of money. I could get a V8 for that much. There are engines out there that people are selling for 350.00 to 500.00, but I take the chance of buying a bad block again. Anyway I will continue to play the waiting game with the machine shop.


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A short block consists of the block, which contains the internal engine components... crank, connecting rods, and pistons...
A long block is a short block plus the head or head bolted onto the short block

if your head is ok then you just need the short block. If your internals are ok you only need the block. Swapping out your internals into a rebuilt block would probably cost you the difference in labor though so you may as well get a short block and have them bolt your head to it. Like I posted earlier, a rebuilt short block is going to run you on the average $700 give or take a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok....here's the deal. Went and picked up my disassembled engine and it does have a very small crack right in the middle of the block between the #2 and #3 cylinders. I'm no expert but I beleive it could be routed out a little and aluminum welded then honed down.....something to check out. I did locate a bare block already Magnafluxed and has no cracks. It is for an 86-89 Sami. My orig. block was a G13A....this block is a G13B. Side by side I cannot tell the difference in the blocks other than a couple of external mounting bolt holes. What is the difference in these two blocks and can it be used with the head that I already have?



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I've never been able to get bare blocks side by side to find the difference - if any.

The G13A is 77mm stroke (1324cc) and the G13B is 75.5mm stroke (1298cc) -the cranks are different, and possibly the rods. Both engines are the same bore and the crank journals etc. are I believe identical - so pistons & bearings can be interchanged. The bore centers spacing is identical so the heads can be swapped.

What you need to look is at the distance between the crank centerline and the top deck - if that's the same on both blocks, you should be able to use it.
 

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Both engines are the same bore and the crank journals etc. are I believe identical - so pistons & bearings can be interchanged. The bore centers spacing is identical so the heads can be swapped.
I'm pretty sure that the pistons are different, I can't get on my PC at the moment to check my copy of the ACL catalogue.
 

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I'm pretty sure that the pistons are different, I can't get on my PC at the moment to check my copy of the ACL catalogue.
Yes - if you go by the parts catalogues the pistons show a different part number, but, what I am running in my G13B is supposedly a flat topped, high compression piston for the G13A, which is why I used the term "interchangeable".
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Great info......had more time to look over both blocks this morning. Center of the mains measurement to top of deck is the same. Crank drops right into place. The head is a match. The new block is made better than my origional. New block has a metal gusset in between each cylinder. The cylinders are one piece of steel molded into the aluminum block. Th orig. block was 4 cylinders molded in. Upon closer inspect the orig. block shows the center two cylinders at one time might have had water or somthing sucked into them in a compression stroke. Cleaning around the top of the block showed the top of the cylinders had expanded and seperated from the aluminum. That block is good only for scrap. Will keep updating on the progress.....thanks for all the info.



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Discussion Starter #19
And the fun just keeps on coming.....Took the new block back down to the machine shop. Get it unloaded in the shop and "tried" to explain about the block being a G13B instead of a G13A. That the center of the crank journal to the top of the deck measured the exact same. The crank slips right into the block and the pistons are the same bore. 15 minutes later I had 4 people telling me all about the differences between the engines. The pistons are a different part number....well use these pistons. It uses a different oil pump.....yeah, but this oil pump bolts right in. The snout on the crank is to short.......uhh no it's not, it's the same length. One guy said he didn't want to build me a morfidyte engine. I am not going to let this beat me. I will find a new machine shop. Sorry for the rant....it's a bit HOT in Texas and I am bit frustrated.


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Discussion Starter #20
Finally coming together.......talked to my NEW machine shop and I will get my engine back this week. My HEADMAN Header I ordered was dropped on the front porch yesterday. Can't wait to get this project going again. I plan on posting pictures of the entire build when I am through.





GIZMO
 
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