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Discussion Starter #1
Yes, I did do a search but did not find the exact size of the transfer case flange bolts.

OR, where to buy them. I tried Southwest Suzuki, but could not find them listed at all.

Where can I buy them. When I call my local dealer, they say "what? I don't have a listing".... It's ridiculas.

Can I just buy some from hardware store, or should they be OEM. I realize there are different grades (strengths) of bolts.

many thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
So they are 12mm head, 10.9 grade. Where does the 8mm come in? Is that the length of the threaded portion? I'm probably making this way too complicated, but I just wanna make sure I get the right ones.

Thanks Azelgin!
 

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8mm is the diameter of the threaded bolt. Head sizes vary depending on what type it is; large hex, std. hex, allen head, torx, 12 pt., etc.. When you are buying bolts, thread (or rod) diameter is what you specify.
 

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Suzuki uses the Japanese Industrial (JIS) metric standard, which is a bit different from metric as used in the US or Europe. Regrettably, this makes metric a bit less of a standard. JIS bolts have finer threads (above 8mm) and reduced head (wrench) sizes. There's a useful table at: Bolt Depot - Common Metric Thread Pitches

Brent at TrailTough once pointed out (Thanks! Brent) that it's desirable to keep with the JIS sizes to minimize the number of wrenches you'll need to carry on the trail. I've also found JIS bolts at NutsandBolts.com
Metric class 10.9 is equivalent to US grade 8
Metric class 8.8 is equivalent to US grade 5.
There's also a stronger metric class, 12.9, mostly used for socket-head cap screws. For front hub bolts, I'm using the McMaster-Carr zinc-coated class 12.9 socket-head 8 x 25mm cap screws #95263A633 found at: McMaster-Carr 'cause they are even stronger than metric class 10.9.

The nuts on my (large) flange driveshaft bolts have a special captive washer and I've not been able to find them new, except possibly at Suzuki. Suzuki uses a lot of flange bolts and nuts, which increases the bearing surface area under the head/hex, while keeping to smaller, lighter hex (wrench) sizes. I kinda like that.
It's OK to use a stronger metric class, and I'm moving towards class 10.9 bolts whenever I have to change something. There's a good article on this subject at: ROCKCRAWLER.com - Grade 5 vs. Grade 8 Fasteners

In the front of the (downloadable) FSM there's a discussion of Suzuki bolt-head strength markings, which differ from those in the US.

Ordinary stainless is not quite as strong as class 8.8/grade 5. More and more I'm moving towards the exotic high-strength ARP stainless hardware, which is somewhat stronger than metric class 10.9. Most of the ARP product line is available from totallystainless.com. It is somewhat expen$ive, so I use it selectively where corrosion could be a concern.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Merlin93!

I found some at NAPA that should work. Can you tell by the pic if they are suitable? The only differences are they are threaded all the way, the head is 1/2 instead of 12mm.

They are 8mm x 1.25 and exactly the same length. The nut off of the original fits perfectly on the new ones. As you can see, they are 10.9 grade. 8.00 and some change for six sets of them. Thought I would get them while I was there, just in case they will work.

 

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I don't believe the additional threads of the fully-threaded bolt will make much difference. As long as you get the right bolt threads and dimensions, you should be "good-to-go". In a pinch, you might be able to substitute US Grade 8, 5/16" bolts and nuts. 5/16 and 8mm are VERY close in size. I'd choose the SAE FINE threads (5/16-24) if available, 'cause they're slightly stronger. Having a few spares along with you might be good, if only for your peace-of-mind.

It does seem odd that the heads are ½ inch. 12mm is 0.472" and ½ inch is 12.7mm. They are actually pretty close. I would expect a ½ inch wrench to work, although maybe not a 12-point box-end at high torque.

I always use blue (medium strength) Loctite when re-assembling these bolts. I don't want 'em falling out on the trail, or anywhere else. Suzuki is big on thread-locker, and so I am too. I reserve the red Loctite for something I never want to be able take apart again. Regrettably, Suzuki uses a high-strength threadlocker like the red, and some fasteners can be a real b*tch to remove (e.g. door-hinge bolts). Heat works on red Loctite, but you may need rather a lot of it.
 
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