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Instead of distributor timing, how about valve timing?? You’ve advised that your mechanic found the crank pulley bolt loose, and tightened it to 70 ft/lbs. Factory spec is 94 ft/lbs, and who knows what damage was done prior (or since) that tightening? Sadly, a good portion of the mechanical issues that you are describing in your various threads, can be explained by a sheared keyway. Hopefully this is not the case, but perhaps it is now time to actually look at the crank and see???
 

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The mechanic who told you the keyway was fine is presumably the mechanic who ‘found the bolt loose and tightened the bolt to 70 ft/lbs”. Frankly, it is highly unlikely that the keyway is fine with a crank bolt that is looser than 70 ft/lbs, or even just at 70 ft/lbs. There is a reason why Suzuki issued a TSB indicating that this bolt needed to be torqued to 94 ft/lbs, because there was incidents of engine damage/performance issues, with the bolt looser. Your posts are indicating performance issues. Frankly, I don’t understand why you won’t check this. Why test the EGR, TPS, distributor timing, ISC or any of the sensors, without knowing whether your valve timing is correct?? Additionally, considering that the mechanic was unaware of the proper torque of that bolt, there is also the possibility that he was unaware that this engine is timed to #4 firing. Just my opinion.
 

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I really don’t mean to nag you about this, but cannot impress upon you how important that bolt is. Do not go to your mechanic to ‘adjust’ it. Go to your mechanic and have him take the crank pulley off and physically look at the keyway in the crank to see if it has been wallowed out at all. If you are lucky, it is still ok And you can have your mechanic torque the bolt properly to 94 ft/lbs. If the keyway shows any damage at all, there is a fix for this. Good luck.
 
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