bogging issue

710 Views 8 Replies 4 Participants Last post by Bex, 9 mo ago

Kalrot

Discussion Starter · 9 mo ago

Sidekick G16B 1995; A/C; P/S. I have this bogging issue. On idle, the car will bog a little, tha will make the rpms to drop by 100 and then go up fast, and sometimes, on idle, the bog will be continuous and drop the rpms to 200 till the ISC kick in and take the rpms to 1000 and then stays to 900. Also I ahve this other issue, after sometime in the highway (3000 rpms) and stopping, will make the rpms to go 100 or turn off the engine, a little play of the pedal will make it stay alive, and after some play, it will stay normal. I think it is: tps, fpr or something that I dont know. The mechanic said that the FPR is ok, but it could be a intermittent failure, that could say why after the highway (pressure), it drops the rpms. TPS, because you can simulate the bog with it. You just press and depress the pedal very fast and it will bog. Also, the intake have A LOT of snoot, but when I took out the EGR, it was very clean, I still dont know how its there, the ISC works, the cold start valve is stuck open (idle screw all the way in), no codes, only 12, and had a rich problem for almost a month, and stopped after we changed the sparks and the place where we put gasoline. Inyectors and rail where cleaned at the beginning of the year, the also the filter was changed, sparks are new, distribution timing is a suspect for me, but I dont know if it could be the problem.

after 15 minutes on a cold start.....

I dont know, but it looks a little dirty, the oil is a little black....

Automotive tire Rim Gas Tread Automotive wheel system

And the snoot, that I dont know from where it comes (EGR was very clean, and the hole of it in the intake mainfold seems full of snoot)

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aquanaut20

· #2 · 9 mo ago

That throttle body is fully coked, needs to be cleaned, the soot is coming via the EGR remove and clean that also...That will most probably clear the bogging issue..

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Kalrot

Discussion Starter · #3 · 9 mo ago (Edited)

aquanaut20 said:
That throttle body is fully coked, needs to be cleaned, the soot is coming via the EGR remove and clean that also...That will most probably clear the bogging issue..

Thanks. But when I took out the EGR it was clean, and all the intake was cleaned at the beginning of the year, either way, a mechanic told us that with time the snoot will leave (I dont think so), so, I have the tools to take all the intake, from the throthle body to the thing where the ISC is (not the mainfold), should I try to take it out or leave it to a mechanic??

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Bex

· #4 · 9 mo ago

Instead of distributor timing, how about valve timing?? You’ve advised that your mechanic found the crank pulley bolt loose, and tightened it to 70 ft/lbs. Factory spec is 94 ft/lbs, and who knows what damage was done prior (or since) that tightening? Sadly, a good portion of the mechanical issues that you are describing in your various threads, can be explained by a sheared keyway. Hopefully this is not the case, but perhaps it is now time to actually look at the crank and see???

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turboguzzi

· #5 · 9 mo ago

I think he said in another thread that there was no damaged keyway or pulley when checked some time ago.

agree that its not easy to follow our friend with all the multiple and overlapping threads he opens.....

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Kalrot

Discussion Starter · #6 · 9 mo ago (Edited)

Bex said:
Instead of distributor timing, how about valve timing?? You’ve advised that your mechanic found the crank pulley bolt loose, and tightened it to 70 ft/lbs. Factory spec is 94 ft/lbs, and who knows what damage was done prior (or since) that tightening? Sadly, a good portion of the mechanical issues that you are describing in your various threads, can be explained by a sheared keyway. Hopefully this is not the case, but perhaps it is now time to actually look at the crank and see???

As I said in other post (sorry for posting a lot), the mechanic told me the keyway was okay. I think I should see a performance loss if the keyway or timing is bad. Now I thing that the EGR may be opening at idle, just for a moment, that would say why theres a lot of snoot in the intake (we dont even drive at the requirement to open the EGR: constant speed, and constant 3500rpms), or the TPS (wich was already cleaned). Anyway I can kill the EGR in idle to see if it is causing the problem? Also, a compression test would say if the keyway is bad, no? Also, the last "mechanic" that took out the valves, could have put them on incorrectly, like the gap etc. I dont think any of it is at spec....... About the distributor timing, is because I think it was done bad, like before the timing job, the screw was all the way to the left, now is the same... I think it would need to chage, unless the distributor is placed incorrectly. As other post, the mechanic that did the gasket job had a hard time doing the timing (that should also include the distributor). And I could be the fuel pressure regulator, but I dont have the tools to test it, I think is best to change it....

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Bex

· #7 · 9 mo ago

The mechanic who told you the keyway was fine is presumably the mechanic who ‘found the bolt loose and tightened the bolt to 70 ft/lbs”. Frankly, it is highly unlikely that the keyway is fine with a crank bolt that is looser than 70 ft/lbs, or even just at 70 ft/lbs. There is a reason why Suzuki issued a TSB indicating that this bolt needed to be torqued to 94 ft/lbs, because there was incidents of engine damage/performance issues, with the bolt looser. Your posts are indicating performance issues. Frankly, I don’t understand why you won’t check this. Why test the EGR, TPS, distributor timing, ISC or any of the sensors, without knowing whether your valve timing is correct?? Additionally, considering that the mechanic was unaware of the proper torque of that bolt, there is also the possibility that he was unaware that this engine is timed to #4 firing. Just my opinion.

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Kalrot

Discussion Starter · #8 · 9 mo ago

Bex said:
The mechanic who told you the keyway was fine is presumably the mechanic who ‘found the bolt loose and tightened the bolt to 70 ft/lbs”. Frankly, it is highly unlikely that the keyway is fine with a crank bolt that is looser than 70 ft/lbs, or even just at 70 ft/lbs. There is a reason why Suzuki issued a TSB indicating that this bolt needed to be torqued to 94 ft/lbs, because there was incidents of engine damage/performance issues, with the bolt looser. Your posts are indicating performance issues. Frankly, I don’t understand why you won’t check this. Why test the EGR, TPS, distributor timing, ISC or any of the sensors, without knowing whether your valve timing is correct?? Additionally, considering that the mechanic was unaware of the proper torque of that bolt, there is also the possibility that he was unaware that this engine is timed to #4 firing. Just my opinion.

I know about the bolt, this week I am gonna go to the mechanic so they adjust it. Well, now I know that it only happens when cold (the bog and rpms issue), so thats a good point to start.

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Bex

· #9 · 9 mo ago

I really don’t mean to nag you about this, but cannot impress upon you how important that bolt is. Do not go to your mechanic to ‘adjust’ it. Go to your mechanic and have him take the crank pulley off and physically look at the keyway in the crank to see if it has been wallowed out at all. If you are lucky, it is still ok And you can have your mechanic torque the bolt properly to 94 ft/lbs. If the keyway shows any damage at all, there is a fix for this. Good luck.

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