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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Does anyone know if a 34-9.50 15(looking at Interco's narrow super swamper)will fit a factory 5.5" wide Sammy rim with any problems? Specs on the tire call for a 7" wide wheel. Of course I realize a lift will be needed. Just trying to get all the info I can before I start the build.
 

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Ol Bill is rite it will fit but not very well. You will be drawing the tire bead inward 4". In off road conditions you stand a good chance of popping the bead loose and my bet is that this will be in a not so favorable place. A nice fit for this tire on a rim is 8" or 8.5"
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ol Bill is rite it will fit but not very well. You will be drawing the tire bead inward 4". In off road conditions you stand a good chance of popping the bead loose and my bet is that this will be in a not so favorable place. A nice fit for this tire on a rim is 8" or 8.5"
Looks like I am going to have to buy wheels. Interco's web site calls for a 15x7 rim for this tire. I am not concerned about having a fancy wheel. Any advice would be helpful. I don't mind the look of the factory modular. Maybe a chrome version would be nice. Other than the needed lift, I don't want to have to modify the suspension to much(on a tight budget, just enough to clear the tires without any rubbing issues). I will probably only do moderate wheeling. 15x7 or 15x8. HEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEELP.
 

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If you are going to put those TSL's on you will be doing alot of suspension mods. unless you plan on cutting away the body panels.

I have RUF 2" rears and am putting on a 7.5" SPOA lift and that should clear these tires with no deep bounce room to spare......
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If you are going to put those TSL's on you will be doing alot of suspension mods. unless you plan on cutting away the body panels.

I have RUF 2" rears and am putting on a 7.5" SPOA lift and that should clear these tires with no deep bounce room to spare......
Well it looks like next years Christmas bonus will go towards the right lift for the tires I want to run. I guess it will be a drawn out build. I have been looking for the right Sammy for about four years, and finally found it(88.5 tin top). I guess the wait for the lift won't be to hard. Looking forward to all the help and advise I can get from this forum.
MERRY CHRISTMAS, and have a BLESSED day.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you are going to put those TSL's on you will be doing alot of suspension mods. unless you plan on cutting away the body panels.

I have RUF 2" rears and am putting on a 7.5" SPOA lift and that should clear these tires with no deep bounce room to spare......
Where are you getting a 7.5 SPOA from?
 

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I bought the lift perches from a an EBay store. They are 1.5 Spoa weld on lift perches. I custom made the shackels in our machine shop. I purchased brakelines, and anything else needed from the classified ads of several different forums.

I am in no hurry so I buy as items wanted become available. I have been installing and modifing items as I go. I have the shocks, wheel spacers, driveshaft spacers, pitman arm on now.

I have the 34x9.5 TSL Swampers mounted and balenced on aluminium Hurricane wheels and ready to go and have the z link steering arm and a few odds and end bling items waiting to be put on too. I still need the 13/16 x 1/2 lug nuts, 4.25 wheel centers and am waiting on my SpiderTrax rear shock bar.

I still need to purchase a panhard bar and make the brackets yet.
 

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I did this on the Grey Ghost project rig many years ago. I used 8" rims, but if I were to do it again i would use 7" rims. The 8's looked good, but I couldn't air down below 10 psi before I would lose a bead when going through any rough rock garden. I run 8" rims on my regular trail zook that are rolling on 12.5" wide swampers. I have never lost a bead when running 3-4" of difference.


Article:
Grey Ghost

My trail rig:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I did this on the Grey Ghost project rig many years ago. I used 8" rims, but if I were to do it again i would use 7" rims. The 8's looked good, but I couldn't air down below 10 psi before I would lose a bead when going through any rough rock garden. I run 8" rims on my regular trail zook that are rolling on 12.5" wide swampers. I have never lost a bead when running 3-4" of difference.


Article:
Grey Ghost

My trail rig:
Now the picture with the guy laying on the ground. What is that tire/wheel combo and the suspension you have? That is the look I want, and I want 34x9.50's to keep the tire's tall and narrow without to much tire beyond the factory flares.
 

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Those are the 34/9.50's on 8" rims using 1" Spidertrax wheel spacers (adapters). The suspension is a Wrangler 2" SPOA on stock width (beefed up) axle housings.
Also required body cutting to make use of the added articulation, but we didn't figure that out until the first day on the trail...

As I said though, I would go with 7" rims if I did it again. We have moved up to 35" tires on that rig since then.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Those are the 34/9.50's on 8" rims using 1" Spidertrax wheel spacers (adapters). The suspension is a Wrangler 2" SPOA on stock width (beefed up) axle housings.
Also required body cutting to make use of the added articulation, but we didn't figure that out until the first day on the trail...

As I said though, I would go with 7" rims if I did it again. We have moved up to 35" tires on that rig since then.
When you say stock axle housings, do you mean the Sammy axles?
 

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The front axle is a Trail Tough prepped Suzuki housing built with Danna 44 style knuckles.

Here is the install article:
Suz-Ana

The rear (at that time) was a Trail Tough prepped Sammy/Track-Kick hybrid that used a Track-kick center section on Sammy tubes.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The front axle is a Trail Tough prepped Suzuki housing built with Danna 44 style knuckles.

Here is the install article:
Suz-Ana

The rear (at that time) was a Trail Tough prepped Sammy/Track-Kick hybrid that used a Track-kick center section on Sammy tubes.
Wow, looks complicated. Do you think my stock axles would be alright with the tires I want to run with very moderate wheeling?
 

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Wow, looks complicated. Do you think my stock axles would be alright with the tires I want to run with very moderate wheeling?
That is only one of the options available out there...
Take a look at the lugs on those tires, there is no such thing as 'wheel spin' when you run them on the trail. They may be skinny, but they still have lots of weight when you put them into motion. Spinning them in mud or water can cause major carnage when they 'catch' on a rock or tree root. Having beefed up axles keep you out of the tool bag a bit longer.

On my personal rig, I run Spidertrax 26 spline RCV Performance axle shafts up front instead of a Suz-Ana. They are in a stock Sammy axle housing with lots of armor.


Install article:
Axle Beef

If you want to go above a 32" tire, you will find it hard to keep the stock axle shafts from snapping when you forget and drop the skinny pedal to get though an obstacle.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That is only one of the options available out there...
Take a look at the lugs on those tires, there is no such thing as 'wheel spin' when you run them on the trail. They may be skinny, but they still have lots of weight when you put them into motion. Spinning them in mud or water can cause major carnage when they 'catch' on a rock or tree root. Having beefed up axles keep you out of the tool bag a bit longer.

On my personal rig, I run Spidertrax 26 spline RCV Performance axle shafts up front instead of a Suz-Ana. They are in a stock Sammy axle housing with lots of armor.


Install article:
Axle Beef

If you want to go above a 32" tire, you will find it hard to keep the stock axle shafts from snapping when you forget and drop the skinny pedal to get though an obstacle.
So if I upgrade the axle shafts, I should be fine? Again, very moderate wheeling. I don't want to break parts.
 

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Yup. For the front. But the rear is a little more controlable because they don't have the extra problem of turning.

Just remember that to upgrade the front shafts you will have to upgrade the sidegears in the front differential from 22 spline to 26 spline. They are just stock rear sidegears. The article has a link to a full article on how to do the swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yup. For the front. But the rear is a little more controlable because they don't have the extra problem of turning.

Just remember that to upgrade the front shafts you will have to upgrade the sidegears in the front differential from 22 spline to 26 spline. They are just stock rear sidegears. The article has a link to a full article on how to do the swap.
Thanks for the info and link to do the swap. Have a MERRY CHRISTMAS and a BLESSED day.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
And to you too!

There are many more pages of 'fun' reading that will get get your imagination going. These are fun (yet addictive) rigs.

Zook Articles
It took me 4 years to find the right one(88.5 tin top, $2400, 68,000+ miles, 1 owner who only used it when it snowed in Blueridge Georgia to get to and from town). I originally wanted an LJ10, but good luck with one of those. I look forward to building my Samurai and gaining help and knowledge from this forum, and making new suzuki forum friends.
 
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