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Discussion Starter #1
Ok,Im wanting to lift my zuk at least enough for 31's.What is the easiest,affordable way to do this??I've been looking for months at shackles,spoa,and springs????Which is best for a good street controlable lift?I dive my zuk back/forth to work every day(about 21 miles one way)to save on gas cause my f150 kills me.I dont do much on trails so flexing is not that big of a deal although ive been wanting to do some trailriding but for the most part i'll be on the hwy.And with all of this being said whats a good wheel back space for this?Im wanting 15x8's but not sure about backspacing or when or not to use spacers??
 

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first lift-
you are asking more than one question here. do you want cheapest or "best for a good street controlable lift"?
cheapest way and to keep the OEM ride is a body lift.
best ride is replace springs with longer, flat springs, replacing spring hangers. this will include shocks and such.
None are 'hard' if you are a wrench turner... with a body lift just do half at a time and is the easiest. IMHO
Remember, larger rubbers will cut down your gas mileage. One thing is they are larger and heaver, but mainly they change your gearing. Depending on your drive, you may loose 5th gear. If you have more stop and go first gear will put a little more stress on your clutch.
When I was running 31's I went with 7" rims. Sorry I don't remember the back spacing but I bet it was a more 'standard' wheel as I just bought them totally off the shelf.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info.So do you think 3" lift springs,2" body lift,and longer shackels will give me enough lift for 31's?And if I do this I will need longer shocks right?As far as gas mileage,I knew i'd loose some but im getting 27mg now in my zuk but only 14mg in my f150.
 

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I thought you wanted cheap? With doing all that you are buying a lot of stuff and may fit larger than 31". If you want to do all that, don't... and just do a spoa. I think Wrangler springs are what everyone is using. It can be done cheaper than all that other stuff. I've got a 3" body and 3-4 custom springs and shackles, but you can do things easier and cheaper than I did. I'm running 33's. If you do replace the shackles make sure you use ones with a reinforced center. They should look like an "H".
And yes, any tinkering with the springs/suspension will require longer shocks. That is why I recommended a body lift. No longer shocks needed for them. A plus is the helps keep the center of gravity lower. If you tell us how much $ you have to deal with it would help. Can you weld? Be ready to trim some bumpers and such.
Do you have your heart set on 31"? They will give a little harder ride than a "P" size tire. A P235/75R15 is about 29" and are cheaper. A P265/75R15 is about 30.5" tall. Google for p size tires and you can go up farther.
You need to decide what size you want, now much $ you have, and what you are willing to do, along with how much and kind of off road use.
Don't forget, you have been warned about gas mileage.

*And why is it no one ever asks what is the most expensive, hardest way to lift their sammy? (no answer needed)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
lol,i guess i misunderstood?I thought you meant I had to do all of that to get 31's under it but guess you meant either or?I was kinda set on 31's?I am getting new bumpers as well.As far as $$ I just have to do it in stages.Lift,wheels & tires,each bumper at a time.Im just wanting to fix'er up a bit.Im not in a hurry but was thinking lift then wheels & tires,then on to bumpers??Oh,no I cant weld.Im not as hard core as some of you guys here which is why Im asking the one that do this a lot.I would like to take it on some trails but mainly its my daily driver so if it makes sense I want the best of both worlds.
 

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Keep in mind that your stock spring, in any configuration, will only provide about 1 inch of up-travel. A 3 inch short lift spring will give you about 1-2 inches of up-travel over that, but they are harder to compress, so under normal operation with stock weight they actually travel less than stock.

SPOA Is less stable than stock, not as stable as spua with lift springs but is less expensive.

Arched lift springs is a harder ride, about as stable as stock ride, supports heavier bumpers/winches, cages, gives you some up-travel. Its a little more expensive than a SPOA.

Extended shackles is less stable on and off road, It's a very inexpensive lift but unsafe for highway use.

Reverse shackle is about as stable as stock, but gives you the lift of a extended shackle lift. Expensive if done properly, but safe. Cheap if done wrong and unsafe.

Long spring conversion (RUF or Wrangler springs) One of the more expensive lifts, but gives you a softer ride and is very stable for highway driving. Can be done SPOA (more lift) or SPUA (more stability) configuration.

Body lift gives you a stock ride and will clear larger tires. Least expensive of all lifts since you don't need longer brake lines or longer shocks. If you plan on keeping the stock springs and you only need to clear 31's there is no advantage to any of the other stock spring lifts over a simple body lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok,I see what your saying.I have been looking at LOW RANGE for all my stuff im wanting and they have a 2" body lift for around 100 bucks.This will clear enough for 31's??Im getting a winch bumper and rear bumper as well both by SHROCKWORKS.Im just on a budget like most and I have to do one thing at a time as extra cash comes in.Here in TN you just dont see many zuk's that look half way good.Most are on farms not on the hwy.I just want to have something different cause everyone has jeeps around here.Plus,mine is paid for!!!!Thanks for your help!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok,I have been at work thinking all day about my lift and Im going with the 2'' body lift from LOW RANGE so with that being said is there a lot of changes I have to do as far as moving stuff around ?Shifters,hoses,ect??
 

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body lifts give you a higher center of gravity and thats about it other than clearing tires, i went with the stage 1 spoa from lowrange and got the ott steering and cleared 31s with just that all for a little over 400 after shipping and everything, if you dont want the ott steering though you can just get a z-bar for about 100 bucks and it will work just fine for on the road, its just offroad with the z-bar creates a lot of bumpsteer, but its about 300 with kit and z-bar or 400 with kit and ott steering upgrade, then you have the basics to build from there too
 

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a body lift will raise your COG on your tub. A SPOA lift will raise the COG on the tub, the frame, the Engine, Transfer-case, and transmission. For just clearing your tires A Body lift is much more practical and its far less expensive. A full 3 inch lift kit costs around 100 dollars. That includes any extended hoses, clamps, bumpers, hardware etc... I think the only thing you have to do other than put spacers under the body, is reposition the steering column and extend the fuel lines.. not positive Since I've never done one. It is supposed to take a lot longer to complete than a bolt on SPOA lift, so give yourself a few days.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well,im leaning toward the 2'' body lift right now.Money is sure an issue.I can always come back later with a spoa if need be.if a 2'' body will get me 31's then thats all i need right now.I still have to pay for new tires,wheels and ft & rear bumpers so the cash will go quickly,lol.
 

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Get some wheels with a small backspacing so that you don't have to run spacers. 31's aren't too big, but a 12.5 is pretty wide for a 31. standard shim spacers can only give you about 1/2" of space since the lug bolts aren't long enough to go much wider. Puting the bolt on spacers can give you lots of room but they cost as much as a new rim. Best to just get the small backspacing to start with.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yea,I was wondering about the back space?What do most get in an 8" rim?There are several different ones that ive seen and not sure which is right?By the way,thanks again for yalls input,thats why im here cause you guys know and I dont,lol.
 

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Just finishing my lift... I went YJ lifted SPUA. Wow, what a difference. Still sorting thru shocks and mounts, getting drive-shafts right, and NEED TIRES but well worth it.
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Details!
where did you get your lift from?
did you do it yourself?
what springs did you get?
total cost?
anything else...
 

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Yes, did it myself, and I'm not much of a wrench turner. Went with the RRO kit, which was okay, had some minor problems with the kit, one of which they fixed, one not .... had to do some minor adjustments on holes etc ... really don't like the 2 part shackles, but it was bolt on and I don't/can't weld so ... It did go on very straight forward and is beefy.

Kit was $450 plus Suzuki Samurai Wrangler conversion kit

I have a bunch of photos of the install. Got a set of Rancho 2.5 lifted YJ's with shocks (5000's and 9000's!!) for $100, also a set of well used OME 2.5's which I used on the front. (Note the difference in ride height front to rear). Still thinking of swapping in the Rancho fronts to the rear of the Sammy, that's a whole 'nother thread.

If I did it again, I would: Sky YJ Wrangler Leaf Spring Swap Kits - Suspension Kits - 86-95 Samurai - Suzuki

I just missed the bolt on version...

Brake lines, drive shaft spacers another $90...
Actually, considering I bought the '88.5 last year for $600, rebuilt the front axle -$140, changed all the fluids etc ... I should be just $1600 total after Treadwrights...

If I throw the $200 on for a lockright, for $1800 total I should a capable, dependable little basher.

I know a guy that just blew $1650 for tires and wheels for his new Wrangler.
 

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bummer you didn't see the sky bolt on kit. I didn't know sky had a bolt on kit either. Better quality, better customer support, less expensive.
 

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yuma

did you measure before and after for your lift. i am interested in seeing more on SPUA YJ lifts. yours looks real good. do you have a thread out there in the internet world that has your build? what tires are you running, or planning to run? thanks

this hijack is now over, please return to your original post :)
 

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Not a complete thread but bits and pieces in a few places. Look at Zuwharrie.com I got a lot of great info there.

Really didn't measure but ended up around 4.5 in the front and at least 5.5 in the rear.. tried to stay under 5 inches because I didn't want to jerk around with steering, excessive driveshaft spline issues etc .. Wanted to stay SPUA for stability, lower COG, really not interested in going sky high, just wanted a softer ride and more articulation in general. The lifted springs were just what I found, so I ran with them and fairly pleased. Still tweaking though ...

Would like to run 31's but am concerned about gearing and power loss... latest idea is to just throw som gnarly 235's on there from https://www.treadwright.com/shopnow/product/tabid/61/productid/8/sename/23575r15-crawler-mt-c.aspx
And call it good. I'm a cheap SOB and really am trying to low ball this whole build.:D
 
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