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Sounds posdibly like a starter bendix clutch slipping, or a broken flexiplate
time to remove the starter and check, irs possible the flexiplate has fractured and that would account for no drive and no cranking

Remove starter, stick a big screwdriver into the ring gear teeth and fry turning the engine over with a ratchet, I bet you can turn it and the ring gear doesn't move
 

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I'm betting on a broken flexplate.
 
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If it was a total flex plate failure, that explains pretty much all of the above. Lets hope this is your issue! Do the auto transmissions have a removable inspection cover as part of the bell housing?
 

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If it was a total flex plate failure, that explains pretty much all of the above. Lets hope this is your issue! Do the auto transmissions have a removable inspection cover as part of the bell housing?
If they don't, its simple enough to get the starter out, either way its got to come out
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Got the starter out, did the screwdriver trick and though I couldn't quite get the screwdriver jammed in there the best it did provide some resistance when I tried turning the engine over by hand. I figured at this point either way it needs inspection so the transmission is all but out. TC bolts and dipstick tube tomorrow and I'll have the trans sitting next to the rig. Hoping on a cracked flywheel and while it's this far apart its going to get some much needed TLC and maybe even a few new things if everything else checks out!
 

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Let us know what you find, with the starter out, check the bendix clutch, gear should be locked solid in one direction but able to e free-wheeling if being driven by the ring gear when engine starts. 2 sets of big pliers is best way to test it, any signs of movement between the gear and its clutch housing ( the bit the solenoid fork pushes out of the starter) in the direction it drives the flywheel and its toast.
Once the torque converter is disconnected from the fkexi plate and pushed back about 1/8" into the transmission so its clear, you should be able to re fit the starter and spin it over and check for compression
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Got to the flex plate or should I say “plates” today. It’s done for, cracked and completely spun off from the center section that’s still bolted to the crank. I’ve done some reading on here and it seems people have a hard time finding these? I was going to call trail tough or maybe highway 83. Any recommendations?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Found one! Trail tough sells them for $50 plus shipping. Now to figure out if there’s anything else that would be useful to do while the trans is out. 🤔
 

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Do the basics, check rear main seal for any signs of leaking, same for any Welch plugs. Remember to loctite and torque the flexiplate and torque converter bolts. Spacers in correct location when fitting the flexiplare, from memory theres a thick and a thin if your one has 2, if theres only 1, measure flexiplate to bell housing face to make sure new one goes back in same position. Last thing you need is to pull it all apart again when it all locks up and you can't get the torque converter to line up
Check bottom of trans bell housing fir oil, don't remove torque converter unless necessary as invariably you will end up with a leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Do the basics, check rear main seal for any signs of leaking, same for any Welch plugs. Remember to loctite and torque the flexiplate and torque converter bolts. Spacers in correct location when fitting the flexiplare, from memory theres a thick and a thin if your one has 2, if theres only 1, measure flexiplate to bell housing face to make sure new one goes back in same position. Last thing you need is to pull it all apart again when it all locks up and you can't get the torque converter to line up
Check bottom of trans bell housing fir oil, don't remove torque converter unless necessary as invariably you will end up with a leak.
I’m
Do the basics, check rear main seal for any signs of leaking, same for any Welch plugs. Remember to loctite and torque the flexiplate and torque converter bolts. Spacers in correct location when fitting the flexiplare, from memory theres a thick and a thin if your one has 2, if theres only 1, measure flexiplate to bell housing face to make sure new one goes back in same position. Last thing you need is to pull it all apart again when it all locks up and you can't get the torque converter to line up
Check bottom of trans bell housing fir oil, don't remove torque converter unless necessary as invariably you will end up with a leak.
forgive me for asking but where would the leak develop at? The trans was a bugger to get out from under the car and the converter more or less slid off in the fight. The last thing I want is to put it on and have to pull it again due to a leak
 

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Ill apologise if you know this stuff already, im not sure how familiar you are with auto transmission install and potential issue in fitting.

If there's any concern, replace the oil seal on the front of the trans that the converter seals on, will need a tube to drive it on square tho,
Do not undo any of the bolts holding the pump into the trans, thats an instant strip and setup job. Seal can be popped out with a slide hammer once you get under the steel edge of the seal, it will bend up with a bit of persuasion once you see a replacement seal you will see what I mean. I have 2 stumpy straight blade screwdrivers that work well if I can't get on it with a slide hammer.

The seals take a "set" and as they age they get hard, removing the converter disturbs the sealing face leading to a leak from the converter to trans joint Usually a day after you get it all together
if the seal is still soft, you might get away with it. Depends on if there was any damage when the converter cane out.

Usually the trans slides rearwards enough to drop straight down without tipping forward letting the converter fall out. Yiu will have to cobble up something using a flat strip of metal or similar using a couple of bell housing holes and bolts to keep the converter in place on install. I have a couple of strip's of inch by 3/16 about 4" long to act as tags to stop the converter sliding forward

Make sure when you fit the converter that you hold it dead square to the shaft otherwise you will damage the seal when fitting it. Big oil leak coming on start up if you do that. Bit of trans fluid or vaseline on the snout obviously so its not going in dry. Should get 3 distinct steps fitting, input shaft spline, stator spline then pump drive dogs. If you have a lock up converter there's another spline to engage but that one usually goes in without an issue. Jiggle wiggle and rotate, one hand on tit in centre if converter face, other hand rotating back and forward to get things to line up. Converter face should end up about 3/16 to 1/4 inch (ish) clear of flexiplate when installed, you will need to pull it forward to meet the flexiplate to fit the bolts at assembly time. Easy enough to calculate, if its in far enough, measure engine mating face to flexi plate converter side add 3/16 then that's the distance from bell housing face to converter bolt face
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
If there's any concern, replace the oil seal on the front of the trans that the converter seals on, will need a tube to drive it on square tho,
Do not undo any of the bolts holding the pump into the trans, thats an instant strip and setup job. Seal can be popped out with a slide hammer once you get under the steel edge if the seal, it will bend up with a bit of persuasion once you see a replacement seal you will see what I mean.

They take a "set" and as they age they get hard, removing the converter disturbs the sealing face leading to a leak from the converter to trans joint if the seal is still soft, you might get away with it. Depends on if there was any damage when the converter cane out.

Usually the trans slides rearwards enough to drop straight down without tipping forward letting the converter fall out. Yiu will have to cobble up something using a flat strip of metal or similar using a couple of bell housing holes and bolts to keep the converter in place on install. I have a couple of strip's of inch by 3/16 about 4" long to act as tags to stop the converter sliding forward

Make sure when you fit the converter that you hold it dead square to the shaft otherwise you will damage the seal when fitting it. Big oil leak coming on start up if you do that. Bit of trans fluid or vaseline on the snout obviously so its not going in dry. Should get 3 distinct steps fitting, input shaft spline, stator spline then pump drive dogs. Jiggle wiggle and rotate, one hand on tit in centre if converter face, other hand rotating back and forward to get things to line up. Converter face should end up about 3/16 to 1/4 inch clear of flexiplate when installed, you will need to pull it forward to meet the flexiplate to fit the bolts at assembly time.
It came back and down pretty well with the converter on it but getting it off of the far from low profile trans jack caused a fair amount of nose tilt and off she went. I’ll make sure everything is squared up and ready to slam back together for reinstall and maybe get it up on some ramps or something to boost it up a few more inches. In the meantime I’m buttoning the engine back up also now that Im pretty sure there’s no catastrophic failure in that department
 

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Good that you'rethinking about the install and making life easier.. I hate having to do things twice. Been there done that, learned my lesson.

Decent big wood blocks under chassis, axle stands etc. Ramps are nice but I find they are usually at a pita height and lead to sore neck and aching arms when doing trans install, I set the vehicle up at the correct height in front, axle stands etc for safety, then jack the rear, slide the trans into the centre, lower car back to nice working height then carry on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Good that you'rethinking about the install and making life easier.. I hate having to do things twice. Been there done that, learned my lesson.

Decent big wood blocks under chassis, axle stands etc. Ramps are nice but I find they are usually at a pita height and lead to sore neck and aching arms when doing trans install, I set the vehicle up at the correct height in front, axle stands etc for safety, then jack the rear, slide the trans into the centre, lower car back to nice working height then carry on.
Getting it off the jack under the car was enough.. I can’t imagine trying to jimmy it back on without losing the converter again. Looks like a trip to Home Depot for some blocks tomorrow and a new timing belt on the agenda. Might as well while I’m in there. I found too many other things I want for it at the junkyard today.. really need to hone my focus back in on the first problem 🤓
 

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Make up a couple of retaining strip's using a couple of bell housing holes, once its almost in place, remove them and offer it up to the block. Keeps the converter in place, possibly use a spacing packer between strip and converter if necessary

And get this job finished then worry about the junk yard funds hehehe
 

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Glad to hear it was a relatively easy fix for you! Not that pulling the transmission is super easy, but much simpler than an overhaul!
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Definitely! I got the only flex plate trail tough had left. Can’t believe how hard these things are to find
 
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